$100 paypal to solve this one!!!!!

[drftns14]

ok well here is the problem:

since tuesday night first:when i come to a stop, red light my car's idle stumbles and then shuts off! when it happens on my wideband it goes dead lean!! whats going on? now even durning idle it will idle for like 1-2 mins and then stumble around and die out samething a-f go lean! i changed the fuel filter and put new plugs in and addaded fuel injector cleaner additave to the fuel system and samething!! i checked all connections and eveything is plugged in proply, checked for vacuum leaks and bov (would that make it run rich?) all woring and run fine!!! i orignally though that i was really low on gas (gas gauge doesn't work) since i drove to the moroso drift event from atlantic ave, slide the whole day and drove back to copans rd. on the same tank, so i though i was running out of fuel so i filled her up to the top and samething! fuel pressure is a 45psi at idle so i dont think my walbro 255 is ****ting out? do you think so? like i said all was fine and dandy before the moroso event durning and just 3 days after till tues day night! the only thing i changed since then was i installed my AEM uego wideband, and remove my greddy arinix filter, and installed an maf adapter and a new Mesh cone filter!! i unplugged the ecu for like 20mins and replugged it in to reset it and same problem, should i check my injector pulse with a noid light to see what happens when it dies off? imean my vac. isnit out of the ordanary (12vac still a problem) and my air fuel is at like 13.5-15.5 at like 1200 . what ya think? the more info the better?

if u can solve this problem ill paypal u $100 and if not BAN and Flame all you want!!!!!!!!!

[a100pureplayaz]

is your blow off valve recirculated. if not you might have to because its throwing off the MAF. this is happening with my car as well first try to tighten it because it may be staying open to long if not then you are going to have to recirculate it

[drftns14]

BOV IS NOT THE PROBLEM-IVE BEEN TOLD THATS IT FOR 1 MILLION TIMES--NOT THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!

[SRPWR]

What boost levels are you running. Pull your plugs and see what they look like. Look at the color. Check your timing. make sure that you have no leaks arount the maf. I know what you mean about people telling you about yor BOV, Im sick of it too! Anyways open atmosphere will make you run a little richer.

[fc3sdrifter121]

sounds exactly like what my mk3 supra was doing when my bov leaked

[ZL-Auto]

I would check idle valve function and smoke test for vacuum leaks. On My S14 SR built motor, the stock idle valve was not efficient enough. There is a retrofit we used from a turbo ford from Australia which really keeps up the idle of the engine. Good Luck.

[Morgs]

are your wiring harnessess that are in the fenderwell relocated? if not i would check them, friend of mine had a similar issue where his car would just die at random turned out he rubbed few a few wires and when they would contact it would die, so just an idea hopefully u get it fixed man!

[sssrdub]

have you changed your coolant temp sensor... My car was doing something very similar to yours and it turns out it was my coolant temp sensor... gauge worked and all but for some reason it was bad...

[zanilth]

I had a similar issue, check the wires going into your fuel rail. I cut one (when I had a KA24DE) when swapping out my air intake. It would run fine, but when dropping down to idle it would kill out. Can't hurt to try.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

If the car drives perfectly fine (no missing, misfiring, hesitation, bogging etc. If it accelerates very smoothly and strong) then I highly highly doubt the problem has anything to do with the fuel injectors. If a fuel injector is bad it will either put in too much fuel and cause the engine to run rich, misfire and flood (therefore causing a no start situation when the engine is warm) or it will not put in enough fuel or any fuel at all which will cause the engine to be lean, misfire and as far as both are concerned the car would just not accelerate smoothly at all you would definately notice something was wrong. so my question to you is does the car drive fine (just idle bad) and what is your a/f ratio at idle. (you say its a 13.5-15.5 at 1200rpm) why such a huge difference? also does your engine ever idle perfectly smooth or does it constantly bog up and down and then finally stall from the get go. If it will idle smoothly at say 8 or 900 for a few seconds atleast then catch the a/f ratio because im curious to know what it is at idle and then what it is at full boost to redline..also are you on a wideband or narrowband? In a nutshell..if the car drives fine and you are absolutely sure you have no vac leaks then i would put my money on the iacv.

[Eikon]

^ Not a bad idea... If your idle air controller was stuck open and/or the sensor not functioning correctly.. you'd be getting too much air into the plenum, and then into the chambers.. Since that air would not be read or measured by any sensors, the injectors wouldn't know to add more fuel to compensate...

Here's another idea.. Basically it sounds like your injectors are not suppling the fuel when needed... so the car leans out and dies.

What triggers the ECU to ask the injectors to fire??? Cam Angle Sensor right? If you had a bad CAS (Or wiring from CAS to ECU), you would struggle to get the fuel injectors to fire correctly.

I think... I'm just making an educated guess..

Are you getting any ECU error codes? Have you checked?

Good luck with it.. hope you get it figured out!

[S13FASTBACKSR]

What you can do first before pulling the IACV off (which is a good bit of work) is to clean it. In order to clean it just take the idle adjustment screw out of the IACV and spray a whole bunch of carb cleaner in the hole (even a whole can wont hurt a bit but dont do it all at once) spray a little bit in there and then take a piece of wood and put the end of the wood on the IACV and bang the other end with a rubber hammer to loosen up carbon on the inside of the IACV. Now get an air compressor and shoot some air into the hole..repeat this process many times..if that does solve the problem then check the IACV's resistance to find out if its up to par or not. resistance should be approxiamately 10. (make sure you put the positive needle on the correct pin of the IACV so you get the correct reading..just do it both ways to make sure)

[S13FASTBACKSR]

What triggers the ECU to ask the injectors to fire??? Cam Angle Sensor right? If you had a bad CAS (Or wiring from CAS to ECU), you would struggle to get the fuel injectors to fire correctly.

This is true

Basically it sounds like your injectors are not suppling the fuel when needed... so the car leans out and dies.

This is true too for injectors that are not supplying fuel to the engine but in that case the car will have drivability issues as well due to the lack of fuel..now I am not 100% sure but i dont think he has drivability issues so therefore that would eliminate the injectors

[corey240]

its the bov

[corey240]

its the bov

[whiplash willy]

This won't solve your issue, but your fuel pressure is too high. You want it at about 34-36 psi at idle. You want to unhook the vacuume hose to the FRP and set it to 43.5psi at idle. Then hook it back up and it should drop to around 34-36psi.

[ZL-Auto]

So you only want to see 2.2 bar of fuel pressure.Most fuel injectors are given their flow rating at 44psi or 3 bar.

[Gspec]

x1,000,004 on the bov.....

as for your $100 offer, i'm calling BS...like a noob with 5 posts is really worried about being banned and flamed...

[kota2240]

have you changed your coolant temp sensor... My car was doing something very similar to yours and it turns out it was my coolant temp sensor... gauge worked and all but for some reason it was bad...

your gauge runs off a different sensor thats why, and the ecu gets its reading from another sensor, the one your replaced