I looked at the other postings but I didnt find anything to answer my question so I apologize ahead of time if someone has brought this up already

On the 8th of June I drove down to LAX from San Francisco to pick up a relative and I notice when we got there at 16k miles on car (LAX) my car started shaking at red lights! It was enough for me and my sister to freak out about! but luckily we didnt feel it anymore on the way back everything was fine until yesterday when it started shaking again when I stopped at red lights I dont know what this is! I love my car and I hope this is something that they can fix! Any advice or anyone have this happen to them?!

Also I havent been able to use my radio in forever I dont get any reception whatsoever!! I have not changed it nor played around with it Its the same way the dealer gave it to be I dont know whats going on there either

Help im so confused!

Monica

...why don't you go to the service? They are there to help you.

Hi Monica,

We don't have much information from you regarding the "shaking" to go on, if you can give a few more details it might help us to help you. Can you tell us what the rpms are doing when the car shakes? Do the rpms fluctuate and drop low as if the car is going to stall, if so how low do they go and what is the range? If you notice abnormal engine rpms it could be an issue with air supply, possibly a vacuum leak, or a bad sensor. When does this problem occur, is it completely random or only after the car has reached operating temp, or only when the car is cold shortly after startup, or other situation? If the rpms are stable, there's a possibility that the shaking could be caused by the CVT trans.

Either way, the only way to know for sure is to have it properly diagnosed, don't worry, all vehicles have occaissional issues and often repairs are only minor. You still have lots of warranty left so put it to use and let a Nissan service department diasnose the problem and they'll let you know what the problem is what repairs are required - that's what your warranty is for so there's no need to worry, just let the warranty work for you.

And I highly recommend answering the questions I've posed above, even if you don't report them to us be sure to have clear answers to these questions for your report to the dealer. You'll get much better results if you're thorough and can report in detail not only the symptoms of the problem but the details including when and how it occurs.

Good luck, and please get back to us with more detail.

Shaking: is the check engine light on?

Radio: did your XM expire?

Does your rpm drop? And lights dim? Does it happen when cars warm or cold? On brakes or off brakes?

My first guess would be bad tank of gas.

Thank you so much for replying to me! I have been waiting a couple days and just keeping an eye on my car it still does it from time to time still a little freaky no it doesnt do anything everything stays the same! The lights stay the same, no engine light on, its about 3-5 seconds and it feels like when your in traffic and the cars in carpool lane fly by you your car shakes... im going to say its like that just to give you an idea and noooo its not the weather lol since weather is just hot and summery its freaky enough to make me think my car is just going to turn off and I thought id go thru here first before going to the dealer since im a female I didnt want them to tell me something else when it was probably nothing but since you guys really think I should take it in I will.

My XM did expire but I am reffering to the actual FM/AM radio I dont have any reception whatsoever not even the jazz one that you seem to get reception in the middle of no where I will go in!

I still love my car tho

Oh and gas I only do Chevron or Shell whatever is closer to me at the time

It would be very foolish of you not to take your car to the dealership to have your complaints addressed before the warranty expires. The sooner the better. Seriously.

My Rogue has started to do the same thing it sounds like. Sitting at a red light, everything normal, then all of a sudden, a large 'shudder' that makes me think "Did someone just bump into me??"
I'll be taking my Rogue in this week or next (whenever they get the part in) to have my shifter assembly replaced, and I'll be having a tech ride with me once I pick up the vehicle to try to determine what it is. I'll report back here with my findings, Monica.

I went for a ride with a technician from the dealer, and of course, we weren't able to replicate the shaking/shudder. Once it starts doing it more consistently (if it ever does), I'll take it in again.

Bring your camera along and mount it somewhere inside the car this time.

Does the RPM drop? Does it idle low when this happens?

Sounds like idle air control sensor/fuel injector got clogged. You can try injector cleaner for like $3-4 a bottle at local auto store and it doesn't matter which one. Also you can clean idle sensor with full throttle body cleaner but when you cleaning make sure to use a nice piece of cloth instead of paper towel. Also when you cleaning it do not and I repeat DO NOT try to reach as far as possible like with screw driver or any other tools because you can damage the spring or the whole sensor. Whatever you can reach with fingers this i all you need. I'll try to find some pics when I get home and might post it over here how to clean it because I did it last year but would be nice to do every time you service air filter.

As I promised I'm posting some pics but don't have the full details. I decided to remove the whole thing in order to check if there' any other stuff in pipes or dirt somewhere else by taking the whole thing off but you can take last pipe only if you want to clean idle control only.
Remove the front air intake by taking front 3 clips off:

Then remove the battery with 10mm ranch

Under battery there's white panel and under it you will see 5 bolt which you have to take off with 13mm ranch:

Remove 2 bolts from air intake filter box - 1 on the right and 1 on the bottom with 10mm ranch then remove the holding ring on the left between pipe and filter box also remove electrical connector from air mass sensor:

Now remove 10mm bolt from resonator and unclip two coolant hoses from idle sensor:


And here's 4 hex bolts that holding the baby that you need to clean. Use 6mm hex key to remove and disconnect the electrical connector:



After you remove it spray hard with full throttle body cleaner but do not spray on electrical parts that are covered with black plastic on top. You can open the hole by pushing the door but don't push it too hard because you can damage the spring. Also you can spray some of cleaner straight to the idle sensor black plastic intake intake and then wipe it with piece of clean towel but don't use paper towel because some pieces may fall inside:


After everything is clean put everything back together in reverse order. Do it on your own risk or take it to the professional if you don't feel comfortable.

^^^^
Great write up but should should highlight or circle parts for the Inexperience DIY people.

Did you have trouble with it relearning Idle when disconnecting battery & IACV?


Cleaning IACV should improve gas mileage too.

Mine does the same thing. Taking it into the shop for that and another problem.

I have the same problem with my 2010 Nissan Rogue. When I am stopped at a red light with the car in Drive the car will start vibrating/shaking. The vibration is noticed the most in the passenger seat. When the seat is empty you can actually see the seat shaking. Pretty much at every long stop light you can notice the vibration/shaking. The shaking gets a lot worse every now and then where the whole car shakes/shimmys just for a few seconds then it goes back to the steady vibration/shaking. I believe it gets worse when the AC compressor kicks on. I have taken it to the dealer and they did not "notice" the problem. They ran the diagnostic test and did not find anything. The only thing they said was I need to get my tires rotated, which is just stupid because it doesn't happen when I am coming to a stop, only when I am sitting at a dead stop. I have had the brakes and rotors checked. I have done the idle relearn. I still have the problem.

im not saying this is all of your problems- but im going to simply mention this to keep in the backs of your minds = YOU BOUGHT A 4CYL ENGINE! ok with that now out of the way, lol - i can begin to explain:
our engines are four small cylinders. whenever you have a small engine, coupled with a small amount of cylinders your going to get vibrations upon rpm dips - and with small engines comes less horsepower. engines naturally will increase and decrease RPM on their own, as the sensors/ecu sees fit.
if your AC turns on, the RPM is going to dip- and in a 4cyl its going to dip hard and fast, and the vibration is going to be very obvious. if your running your AC and your thermostat opens, and the engine coolant cycles, its going to put an increased strain on your water pump - only further robbing power from the engine's momentum.

now add in headlights, seat warmers, defrosters, foglights, AC and our little alternators have trouble keeping up- power dips, engine rpm drops - the ecu picks up on that; and quickly raises the RPM. - thats all really noticeable due to the vibration in our small engine; in a larger more powerful engine, its almost not even noticeable.
-JUST KEEP THAT IN MIND FOLKS.

NOW MONIKA YOU STATED THAT THE VEHICLE ROCKS BACK & FORTH - is that standing still, or while moving(and at what speed?) this could be a lot of issues, but common vehicle rocking is caused by bent axles, rims installed wrong(not bolting the rim in a cross-star pattern), or a drive shaft thats bent. please elaborate more and i hope you brought it in by now- you dont want to break down at night somewhere.

Leo2005 wrote:
Under battery there's white panel and under it you will see 5 bolt which you have to

Look at these cables!!! It is like a rat nest!

Hi ImStricken; I read your Mar 20 2012 description of why our 4-cyl cars dip the RPM's and shake, but I have a doubt; why it doesn't happen when in Park or Neutral? I just bought an used '11 Rogue SL with 17K miles on it and felt the RPM dip and shake, so I searched this forum. Me and my wife have or had other 4-cyl cars and the shake is not as noticeable nor as frequent as in the Rogue. I went to the local Nissan Service mainly to inquire on the past owner's service record (had all the scheduled maintenance done), and when I asked about the dip & shake, they said it was normal.

jcfp05 wrote:Hi ImStricken; I read your Mar 20 2012 description of why our 4-cyl cars dip the RPM's and shake, but I have a doubt; why it doesn't happen when in Park or Neutral?

simple: in park & neutral, the load of the vehicle, is removed from the engine via the transmission.
ever notice how once you put your vehicle into N or P - the RPM instantly increases by at least a couple hundred rpm? well, you just released the strain, that was on the engine while in gear. its like taking weight off your shoulders.

when your in drive, or any gear for that matter - at 0mpg release your brake and the vehicle starts to move. now apply the brake and your brakes are fighting the engine, and the vehicles moving weight(momentum). At idle coasting guess who is going to win? 4 brake calipers exerting thousands of pounds of pressure are going to win over a small engine thats not being given throttle. (give it throttle, and now the engine will win)
so while sitting at a red light, and applying the brakes - there is still a small amount of strain on your engine. if you just release your brake pedal, you would find the vehicle instantly starting to move, and the RPM would return upward by as much as 200 or more RPM.

and you mentioned that you drove other 4cyl engines and things were a bit smoother; well i dont doubt you. every car is different. from motor mounts, to the HP in those engines, to the weight of the vehicle, etc. but you must understand that our car has a CVT. this transmission coupled with an early locking torque converter is armed and ready to get the car moving much earlier and faster than other cars without the CVT. so what your actually getting is more feedback aka vibrations. its nothing to be concerned about, and not something to stress over. every car is different by power, weight, design, mechanics, etc.

small fuel efficient engine + CVT transmission + early locking Torque Converter = more vibrations when standing still while in gear. especially if the AC pump is active, or the alternator has strain/drain.

ImStricken wrote:
and you mentioned that you drove other 4cyl engines and things were a bit smoother; well i dont doubt you. every car is different. from motor mounts, to the HP in those engines, to the weight of the vehicle, etc. but you must understand that our car has a CVT...

Thanks for the feedback. Guess I just have to get used to it. Incidentally, one of the 4-cyl cars I mentioned was an 2004 Audi A4 1.8L turbo with CVT, and the RPM dips were not noticeable at all. Good car but very high maintenance costs. Anyway I love the CVT; just like the Audi did and you point out, the Rogue's CVT shifts seamlessly and is ever ready to go. Regards

audi is notorious for making their cars as sound proof as possible. (you pay for the extra insulation) but its certainly really nice. even the way the firewall between the cabin and engine is designed its made to keep sounds away. plus they use expensive engine mounts, that further reduce the vibration.

but your 100% the fussiness of a German car is beyond my wallet. actually, beyond my desires more-so really. from fussy oil issues, to turbo problems.

but back to the rogue, trust me - the vibrations are normal. if the vibrations get to a point where its almost stalling out, then seek help. if the vibrations or RPM dip hits low levels where your headlights dim significantly, also seek help. otherwise a couple hundred RPM = normal

Problem update: Problem fixed! After talking with two different Nissan Service Centers, who promptly said my "RPM dip and shake" was "normal" without even seeing the car (and refusing to work on it under warranty since "there is nothing to work on"), I finally took the Rogue to another Nissan Service Center and got a sympathetic service representative to listen to me. I told him what I was experiencing and pointed out the RPMs went below 500RPM and that the car appears to be stalling for a second, then recovers, and it was very, very annoying. Even my 80yrs-old mother felt it and said WTF is THAT?? (not with those words but you get the idea!). I told them that unless Nissan had sold me a $24K go-kart, it was NOT normal. They told me they would make inquiries and gave me an appointment for another day. It appears they did the homework because when I went to the appointment they told me they already knew what they need to do - reprogram the throttle control and ECM module. They did so and lo and behold, the annoying dip and shake went away. Now the car purrs like a kitten and has almost no dip in RPMs, and absolutely no shake. I googled the procedures the Service Rep told me they performed, and found a link pointing to what I believe is the solution. There are 3 or 4 different procedures to follow, and they seem DIY but the Service Center performed them under warranty at no cost to me. I'm posting the link here in case it helps someone else with the same problem:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/rogue/23 ... -stop.html
Besides fixing the problem, the procedures improved my Avg. City MPG from 18 to 22+ so I'm extra happy... Regards

jcfp05 wrote:Problem update: Problem fixed! After talking with two different Nissan Service Centers, who promptly said my "RPM dip and shake" was "normal" without even seeing the car (and refusing to work on it under warranty since "there is nothing to work on"), I finally took the Rogue to another Nissan Service Center and got a sympathetic service representative to listen to me. I told him what I was experiencing and pointed out the RPMs went below 500RPM and that the car appears to be stalling for a second, then recovers, and it was very, very annoying. Even my 80yrs-old mother felt it and said WTF is THAT?? (not with those words but you get the idea!). I told them that unless Nissan had sold me a $24K go-kart, it was NOT normal. They told me they would make inquiries and gave me an appointment for another day. It appears they did the homework because when I went to the appointment they told me they already knew what they need to do - reprogram the throttle control and ECM module. They did so and lo and behold, the annoying dip and shake went away. Now the car purrs like a kitten and has almost no dip in RPMs, and absolutely no shake. I googled the procedures the Service Rep told me they performed, and found a link pointing to what I believe is the solution. There are 3 or 4 different procedures to follow, and they seem DIY but the Service Center performed them under warranty at no cost to me. I'm posting the link here in case it helps someone else with the same problem:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/rogue/23 ... -stop.html
Besides fixing the problem, the procedures improved my Avg. City MPG from 18 to 22+ so I'm extra happy... Regards

either they did all of that, or advanced the idle slightly. either way, glad to see it fixed

I've seen many different terms used by various people to describe what I think is the same issue that people are experiencing pertaining to Nissan Rogues and perhaps even Muranos possibly. That said, I just bought a 2011 Rogue, and shortly thereafter, and at random times and speeds, although it may have happened mostly going uphills in a curve of the road, the vehicle would "buck" once, and usually just once most of the time. It almost seems as if the engine cuts out very briefly. But whatever it does, it causes a "bucking/jerking" sensation that causes enough concern to make one think that the vehicle is going to cut out and stop running completely. It gives you a very uneasy feeling, and I believe that many people mistakenly believe that the CVT is failing.

By pure chance, mine started "bucking" immediately after I changed the spark plugs, immediately thereafter. So I was initially convinced that it was due to the new plugs, but quickly abandoned that theory.

That said, I saw a lot of different suggestions for addressing the problem that seemed to make sense as initial troubleshooting steps. However, two separate people suggested that it was the "air filter" in other posts that I saw. And that, given what the vehicle was doing, seemed ridiculous to me at the time. But to humor myself, I pulled the air filter and checked it, and mine was mostly clean. So I re-seated it (assuming I'd wasted my time) and went about my way.

I went on a test drive, and specifically went to the road where the bucking almost always happened. I traveled up the hills and around bends and NOTHING...I took the vehicle on a four trip the next day...Again, NOTHING. And prior to that and since it started happening, I could never drive 1 hour without it happening. Two days later, and 12 hours of driving later, it still hadn't happened. Today, nearly three weeks later, it still hasn't happened and I'm convinced that it won't.

Given that I had once taken the cover off the air filter housing and had issues getting it back on, I now believe that the air filter was seated improperly and as a result, the air flow was either restricted or perhaps far too much. But in either case, it was not what was expected by the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) and perhaps the MAF was causing the engine to briefly cutout for whatever reason as a result. But I'll leave the theories as to what the issue could have been to the real mechanics out there, rather than myself, a 30 year backyard mechanic.

With that said, and despite my air filter being fairly clean, I replaced it anyway. But just re-seating the old one resolved the "bucking" issue that we had experienced. It's the craziest thing I've ever seen, and it hasn't happened since.

Good luck and I hope this helps you resolve your issue.