1 month and no sign of getting better

[F3600]

Well its been 1 month ... my car is acting up.. let's recapitulate the problems

When cool hard idle , need to give gaz to keep it alive after 1 minute the idle seems okay.

I cannot give more than 25% throttle otherwise the engine stumble cut and shake a lot and my boost gauge gauge is bouncing all around. Its almost undriveable

when the car is hot its running perfect if i dont press the throttle too much. I hear the turbo starting doing is job when i touch maybe 1 or 2 psi its stumbling and backfiring like crazy, i need to relase the throttle and the car is running good again

I pressure tested my system and i didnt hear any major boost leak. There was one around the throttle body but it was a small one and i was hearing it at 8-9 psi. My boost gauge was reading boost for maybe 15 30 sec and was slowly getting down.

the ignitor is fine , my coils are fine , my maf is fine. My ecu is getting code 55. I switched my coil , maf and ignitor with a good working one.

Its should be a vaccum leak but i dont know where to find it now im depressed i want my nice CA back ! Any input would be apreciated thx.

PS: the problem appeared after a timing change ... but its seeems to be not related to that.

[gervs]

what the, how many ca's are doing this, i just replied in another post, my car is doing almost the same thing, someone must know whats going on

[Nunook]

you said it started after you did the timing belt right?If so, are you sure its on correctly, also maybe the tensioner is giving up on u. just a suggestion.

P.S. im also a pretty new to the ca

[F3600]

no, the timing belt was alright .. i only adjusted my timing with a timing gun by turning the cas to get its a +15 Deg BTDC

[LoserbabyS13]

If I am not mistaken you want your timing to read -15 not +15. Also where did you mesure timing from and did you use a delay gun or a standard gun?

[Nunook]

I thought it was suppose to be 10 degrees??? Maybe thats the non turbo

[RMiller]

15 Degrees BTDC. Recheck your timing, and turn the CAS until it sounds good and idles at about 850. A coupler blew off on my car once and it would still run and rev to like 3000, then go nuts. Of course this was without air passing through the MAF. So it sounds like your MAF isn't seeing the right amount of air. Are you using insulated wire? You're sure it is hooked up properly?

[pulsar gtr]

Actually, he should of gave more info on his problem.

His problem started when he tried to adjust his timing by turning the CAS, but what I don't understand and I have seen it on different forums including on the SR engine,Is he disconnected his TPS while the car is running and tried to adjust the timing, I haven't seen it any where or seen any one or in the fsm or any where else says to disconnect the TPS while the car is running to adjust the timming.

Any ways, he did that, and the car start stumbling right after.he lives about 3hrs away from me and I paid him a visit a while back.There was some serious wiring mess, and he was using the Euro harness which doesn't have O2 sensor (recently he got a JDM wiring harness and swapped it). So, we swapped the ignitor, CAS, and the coils and the problem stayed there.

The way it sounds is the MAF isn't getting the proper reading or there is some serious vaccum leak after the throttle body as he mentioned that he did the leak test on the intercooler and the piping.

Also, I know he was using some generic sparkplugs and I suggest to use NGK platnium.

Hi Fred, I might be going down to montreal next weekend, if so, I might continue to your place and figure it out.

Any ways, keep me updated.

Thanks,

RafiPULSAR GTR

[F3600]

Yeah... I swapped my new harness and the problem is still there.. I took an appointment(?) in a garage for thursday they will check it out .. I heard of some chimical smoke to use to find vacuum leak maybe they have that thing.. that would help me figuring out where the leak is. I found out that my o2 sensor is not egtting 12 volt at th brown wiring ill need to check for that on sunday.. ill keep ya updated .. input are welcome like always !

[F3600]

RMiller : yeah, i used insulated wiring from a used Ka harnes to extend my Maf wiring

[RMiller]

Spray carb cleaner to check for vaccuum leaks. Car will stumble if it gets in your engine.

[biosehnsucht]

His problem started when he tried to adjust his timing by turning the CAS, but what I don't understand and I have seen it on different forums including on the SR engine,Is he disconnected his TPS while the car is running and tried to adjust the timing, I haven't seen it any where or seen any one or in the fsm or any where else says to disconnect the TPS while the car is running to adjust the timming.

Normally you'd disconnect the TPS to set the idle using the idle adjust screw on the KA.. but it has nothing to do with the timing. on the CA FSM says to disconnect AAC for that, and nothing about disconnecting anything for timing; merely loosing bolts on the CAS so you can turn it.

don't see how doing that could cause a problem tho.

Has the ECU been given a chance to reset in case it learned some wacky codes? Try leaving it unhooked or battery disconnected overnight?

[F3600]

Yeah i disconnected my batterie for 1 weeks. But the problem didnt go away

[hersonevia]

I was having some problems with mine as well. The reason was that i had a boost leak. My car would studdard and shake. I also give my car gas in the morning when I fisrt turn it on. the reason is because my egr connection was not connected.

[iliketocrash]

yeah. when i do the timing i just disconnect the idle control thingy. If i disconnect my TPS then my car revs out byitself. It would probably redline if i didn't plug it back in actually.

[F3600]

iliketocrash: my car doesnt do that when i unhook my TPS ...

[GotBoost4Yall]

1st symptom is typical, i'm starting to have it alot more on start up, idle is low and jumps until warmed up.

I havent changed my plugs in awhile but recently theres been a miss at 3500 rpm through normal driving speeds, and when letting off the throttle It will backfire,pop pop.

Just time for a tuneup.

[biosehnsucht]

You might want to double check the harness connectors are all correct.. compare the wire colors on the harness connectors for all the sensors/gizmos to the FSM and see if they match up.. you might have something switched.

[gervs]

hey rafi, is it doing the exact same thing my car was doing?

[pulsar gtr]

HI Gervs,

No, his car is basically not drivable due to heavy and I mean heavy bogging and stumbling. He can't boost other wise the car will stumble.

PULSAR GTRRafi

[F3600]

well , i just found out that my alternator is shot. I tried to install a Ka one, but the tensionner hole doesnt line with the tensionner arm, i would need to move to the right the tensionner arm maybe 3/4 inch to make it fit .. so im gonna get my alternator rebuilt on monday. BTW, i tested some of my sensors grounds and engine ground... with my multimeter set at 200 ohm, i got about 50.3 on a sensor like the air regulator connector and maybe 15- 20.0 at the intake manifold bolt (theres two). Is it normal reading .. ??

[gervs]

thats exactly what my car is doing rafi, as soon as the turbo kicks in it just bogs, and i actually loose speed when it happens, i just never boost no more cause its pointless when i drive it i just go easy on the pedal

[pulsar gtr]

Hi Gervs, check for intercooler piping leaks, and if you are driving some time soon to Ottawa, I will figure it out for you dude. I love to drive to your area but it is a bit far for me.

Let me know, shoot me an email.

RafiPULSAR GTR

[F3600]

i found the problem and now its running fine again..

ill came back in 1 or 2 hour to explain how i fixed it ..

[biosehnsucht]

just don't go too crazy whilst enjoying your rediscovered power, and break something else!

[F3600]

Yeah .. i was on a stop and a old jetta bling bling tried to show me his Power .... he never passed my door .. with 1/2 throttle ..haha anyway

the problem was my alternator .. he was not charging at low RPM and there was a problem in the control module... I took it to a guy who rebuilt starter and alternator and 6 hours later and 141 $ Cnd , i was installing my rebuilt alternator. I didnt take any chance and i installed 2 big *** ground wire : from the head to the body and the intake manifold to the ground at the battery holder.

The car feel much stronger than before and its spooling much faster too !

anyway that's all . Thx for your support... be sure to check your alternator when your trying to figure out a problem... the car was giving me the same symptom as a boost leak..

dont forget all your ground too

[float_6969]

Thats one for the books kids! Thats the first time I've heard of symptoms like that. Everytime Ive had an alternator go out, it just basically went out. But I'm glad you got it figrured out. How did you finally come to that conclusion?

[pulsar gtr]

Ya, these problems are strange, I had an identical problem on a 1998 Eagle Talon last week, and good thing it had OBDII, hooked up the tester and showed me that the alternator was over charging, replaced it, car drove awesome.

Good job Fred,

RafiPULAR GTR

[F3600]

My battery was just keeping no power. I was always boosting it. I tested the voltage on the battery it was about 11... so there was a problem there. I took it out to get it get tested.. I've tried everything before that , it was my last chance. I tested some ground on my harness and they were pretty high resistance.. some of my sensor was reading 50.0 ohm .. after i added my 2 ground cable they was reading 0.7-8. It solved one of my dash problem, there was 2 led that was always on when the car was not running. Well that's how i found out !

2-3 years ago, On my first first 240sx, i got a problem similar to this .. The ground by the battery was almost spliced.. and one day the car was running so badly (almost the same way the ca18 was acting). When i found out, i added some ground to the car and after that everything was right again. I should have think about that a litlle more faster.. hoo well

[r34 gtr]

your car wouldnt crank with 11v across the battery? just find that a little wierd because my car would start with 9 or 10 across it (according to the safcII) after i had been running the stereo with the car off for awhile. i know the car really isnt supposed to do this, but i thought maybe since it was such a small engine it didnt need much to fire up. the starter on mine only had to turn it 1/2 a turn before the engine would fire up. are all CA's like this? i know C's CA fired up almost instantly after being dormant for a good many years..

the alternator on mine was rebuilt too, it squealed though, didnt produce incorrect voltage..

- tim