1 - 2 shift problem, grinds, "chunk" noise, etc.

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94VG30DE
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:29 pm
Car: read the username. if you don't know what that is, you don't belong here.

Post

Ok folks, my little brother just acquired a 90 Nissan 240SX SE with a 5-speed transmission. There are 86000 miles on the ODO, and other than rust the engine runs great. However, I am having all kinds of problems when shifting into 2nd gear. If I try to shift slowly, it just sits and grinds as if I don't have the clutch in. When downshifting into 2nd gear, it does the same grinding motion. If I just throw it into gear without giving it time to complain or grind, it hits with a resounding "clunk" sound. I know how to shift, and I have tried everything I can think of to get around the problem. I have tried double-clutching, I have tried rev-matching (which should completely bypass the syncromesh if I am not mistaken), and i have tried shifting as smoothly as humanly possible. This problem does not occur, however, if I shift into 2nd gear at what appears to be below 25 miles per hour. The problem does not seem to be tied to RPMs, b/c I have tried the maneuver at various RPM levels.

Also, the shift lever has a considerable amount of side-to-side play even when in gear. I know a little play is standard, but this knob moves about 3 inches side to side when in gear. I dont believe it is a serious problem, but it is incredibly disconcerting when cruising or sitting and the knob is able to move that much.

Thanks for any help you can give!

chris


NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

Post

you got 2 things going on. The shifter issue is due to a plastic bushing on the end of the shift lever inside the trans. The grinding issue sounds like a baulk ring or syncronizer hub issue.

94VG30DE
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:29 pm
Car: read the username. if you don't know what that is, you don't belong here.

Post

Thank you for the quick response! I understand the plastic bushing issue, I have messed with that on a Celica I had. As to the baulk ring and/or syncronizer hub, how much would those be to fix? Also, is this a problem that is likely to spread to other things if I just drive with it, or should I have it fixed? Basically, is it going to be worth my money to fix it?

chris

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

Post

fixing it would be a complete trans overhual. you could probably pick up a fairly decent used trans for much less.


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