06 pathfinder light jerk at around 45mph. Possible motor or trans mount?

[Dogred08]

I just started to notice a light jerk when I touch the gas or let off the gas at around 45 mph and I can make it do it over and over again by tapping the gas pedal when I'm at the perfect speed and it seems more noticeable when on a slight incline. It shifts perfectly smooth when accelerating at a steady rate or decelerating to stop but sometimes it does this light jerk but doesn't feel like a gear slip. I have a old Honda that has confirmed rough shifts and this doesn't feel quite the same. Could this possibly be a bad motor or trans mount since the rubber can crack and break? Or is my Transmission just starting to go out and this is a very early sign. The fluid is fresh and clean and it has a almost new radiator with 0 signs of coolant in the trans.

[Rockwood]

You have independent rear suspension on that. Your rear wheels are mounted to upper and lower contol arms, much like some front suspensions. A bad bushing or two in those control arms may be allowing too much movement. So you might be feeling some torque steer as those arms move when you jump the gas a little. The tell is getting that odd jerk when you get on / off the gas.

If you are getting smooth shifts under steady acceleration, I would think rear suspension first.

Your rear suspension can be aligned, so might be time for a check of that as well.

[Dogred08]

This is the rear differential. Both rubber bushings look busted. And I can hit the rust with a hammer and screw driver and it doesn't go thru so it doesn't seem to affect the structural part of the support.

[Dogred08]

I can't figure out how the hell to upload an image to these forums it never works no matter what host I use or how I fit it in the brackets so here is the raw link. https://imgur.com/a/3BZ3rvR

[Rockwood]

Yep, zoomed the pic and brightened it up. The rubber material on those has crapped out. So that is a good place to start. Probably Nissan only parts, altho I am not sure about that.

Look at the NICO banner above and you will see a link to service manuals. You can download the rear suspension portion and take a look. A lot of info in there for you.

Looks like you have a new project!

[Dogred08]

Yep, zoomed the pic and brightened it up. The rubber material on those has crapped out. So that is a good place to start. Probably Nissan only parts, altho I am not sure about that.

Look at the NICO banner above and you will see a link to service manuals. You can download the rear suspension portion and take a look. A lot of info in there for you.

Looks like you have a new project!

I looked at a video to change it and the entire differential has to come out which the rear sway bar or whatever it's called has to come out which sounds like I'll have to get an alignment as well so this job sounds expensive and time consuming unless I don't have to get an alignment and not to mention every bolt is rusty and ready to break

[Rockwood]

Post a link and I'll watch it tomorrow. Kind of curious to see.

[Dogred08]

Post a link and I'll watch it tomorrow. Kind of curious to see.

[youtube][/youtube]https://youtu.be/0IlC18jDq6g
[youtube]https://youtu.be/0IlC18jDq6g[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/0IlC18jDq6g[youtube][/youtube]


Only difference is that his is completely rust free and everything breaks loose easy unlike mine

[Dogred08]

CAN ANYONE PLEASE EXPLAIN WHY THESE LINK THINGS NEVER WORK ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY

[Rockwood]

Finally took a look at the video. It actually does not look too bad - some cars are much worse. Much easier if you have an impact wrench of couse, so maybe thats a reason to hit Harbor Freight.

Alignment will be up to you. If your rear tire wear pattern is good, you can probably pass on it. It will only be required if you pull off one of the control arms. Those have cam type alignment bolts.

I would search a little for aftermarket bushings - you may find better quality. Just not sure if they are available.

Oh, and I have problems posting pics and have never taken the time to figure it out, so I'm the wrong person there.

[Dogred08]

Finally took a look at the video. It actually does not look too bad - some cars are much worse. Much easier if you have an impact wrench of couse, so maybe thats a reason to hit Harbor Freight.

Alignment will be up to you. If your rear tire wear pattern is good, you can probably pass on it. It will only be required if you pull off one of the control arms. Those have cam type alignment bolts.

I would search a little for aftermarket bushings - you may find better quality. Just not sure if they are available.

Oh, and I have problems posting pics and have never taken the time to figure it out, so I'm the wrong person there.

I did find some aftermarkets for like 18 each but the only problem I have is that every bolt is rusty and I have an aircat 1250ftlb break away torque. Like if it wasn't rusty it would be a really easy job but do you have any recommendations on breaking them loose such as breaker bars or full send with the impact and some lubricant. I've had 50/50 with both in the past but these bolts are much beefier than those so it may be easier. And I saw one video where someone just pumped 5 minute epoxy into both bushings on top and bottomand not going to lie that looks really tempting

[Rockwood]

I guess you have the tools. A little lube on the two nuts holding the diff on, and hit em with the impact wrench. Spin back off kinda slow. Done.

The CV shafts are held on with smaller number 8 grade bolts, in a tight spot, which typically spin tight over time. Hard to break loose, but easy going after that. Tight space I'm guessing means a breaker bar.

The Bolts holding the sway bar on are number 5 hardness. I'd probably break loose with a breaker bar and spin off slowly with the impact wrench. They are the most likely to break, so a little patience helps.

I saw the vid on injecting epoxy - he had silicone bushings where the silicone leaked out, and filled those cavities. Your bushings are solid EPDM type material all around I think.

If you want to try it, you could ream out the split areas of your bushings with a drill to create the cavities, and then fill those with epoxy. Never tried it, so I can't promise it would work. But would probably work as well as what he did in the video.

But if you try that you gotta do the youtube video!

[Dogred08]

I guess you have the tools. A little lube on the two nuts holding the diff on, and hit em with the impact wrench. Spin back off kinda slow. Done.

The CV shafts are held on with smaller number 8 grade bolts, in a tight spot, which typically spin tight over time. Hard to break loose, but easy going after that. Tight space I'm guessing means a breaker bar.

The Bolts holding the sway bar on are number 5 hardness. I'd probably break loose with a breaker bar and spin off slowly with the impact wrench. They are the most likely to break, so a little patience helps.

I saw the vid on injecting epoxy - he had silicone bushings where the silicone leaked out, and filled those cavities. Your bushings are solid EPDM type material all around I think.

If you want to try it, you could ream out the split areas of your bushings with a drill to create the cavities, and then fill those with epoxy. Never tried it, so I can't promise it would work. But would probably work as well as what he did in the video.

But if you try that you gotta do the youtube video!

If I could fit my impact on the CV shafts would it be okay to use it?