04 Rotors What to choose, what to choose, what to choose????

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bbqbrisket
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For my G35x non brembo.

Trying to decide on either the DBA 4000 Rotors or the PowerSlot (non cyro)

I can get them for the same price. Anyone got any thoughts if one is better than the other?


JeromeS13
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Do you track the car? If not, they're both useless upgrades. Just get OE style blanks.

-Jerome

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bbqbrisket
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don't track it.HOw about Stop TEch??

JeromeS13
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You can buy whatever you'd like. However, you're not going to see any gains from slotted and/or drilled rotors, versus OE style blanks.

-Jerome

awdjdmtalon
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+1. Unless you do track days or run mountian roads regularly, you don't need them. Unless you are going for the "BLING" factor of having drilled or slotted rotors.

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bbqbrisket
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thanks for your help guys. I'll go just the reg ones and save me some money then.

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logicmobile
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well buying an oem rotor , im afraid that i might warp it again, ans it aint cheap ..co'z slotted rotors have 30 more % cooler than oem, i know it pricey but i think it does the job,,,right now im lookin @ stop tech...around 96 buckz each non brembo ,

also i have a air compressor and impact wrench and that bolt that hold that piece o $**t caliper wont budge on me..its like so tight, but at the same time i dont want pro's to touch it , so pricey

Jspuler1029
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Just a little input for ya BBQ.. I got EBC slotted and dimpled and Redstuff pads on all 4 and i've noticed a significant difference. Then again.. I have a coupe. The only issue i've ever had with getting my G is the brakes. If you do steel lines, slotted rotors, good set of pads and new fluid.. you'll be impressed with the new bite. I bought all mine for under $800 with the rotors alone being about 400.

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SVTCOBRA
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logicmobile wrote:also i have a air compressor and impact wrench and that bolt that hold that piece o $**t caliper wont budge on me..its like so tight, but at the same time i dont want pro's to touch it , so pricey
I would put a 1/2 breaker bar on it and then the upper half of my floor jack handle.....it is on tight, but it will budge. When I pulled the fronts on my wife's sedan I was at my buddy's house. He handed me this MAC breaker bar he had that must have been 3 feet long or more. It popped both pretty easy. I haz to get me one.

I going to eventually replace her front brakes with ceramics and Napa's top rotor. Hopefully, this will keep them from warping again.

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logicmobile
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thats what im thinking tho, thanx

pfarmer
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bbqbrisket wrote:thanks for your help guys. I'll go just the reg ones and save me some money then.
While OEM brakes may well do what you need, if you put the right type of rotors on your machine you will in fact notice a difference.

While many think the slots or holes are for cooling the main purpose is to break down the boundary layer of gases between the surface of the rotor and brake pad.

Although there is some debate many will state that a good cross drilled (or cast) rotor is good for the street as it may give longer brake pad life (over slotted) while giving you the benefit of the degassing holes.

However most will agree that if you are going to the track then go with slotted as they are less prone to failure.aa

Perry
Modified by pfarmer at 7:08 PM 4/11/2009


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