I'm going off the Titan's procedure to get into the diagnostic mode for the rear sonar, but I'd imagine its the same for the QX56. Just turn the key to the on position. Wait for the light on the rear sonar button to turn off and press it ten times within 5 seconds. When I did this, my light never actually turned off as that was part of the problem so I watied a few seconds and then pressed the button repeatedly until it started to blink. Once you are in the diagnostic mode, it should start blinking the error codes. Record it and compare it to what is in the FSM:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/QX56/
The correct section will probably be the Driver Information (DI) section if its arranged the same way the Titan's FSM is.
Its probably the buzzer though. Its a common problem and if the dash is anything like the Titan, you can actually access the buzzer without tools. Removal just requires a small socket. The piece is some $70 for what is nothing more than a small piezoelectric buzzer. I replaced mine with one at Radio Shack. They sell a number of them and I tried a few. The ones that have drivers are sufficiently loud, but have an audible hissing when it is not buzzing (the sonar system sends light voltage through the buzzer when off to detect the buzzer is working). You can wire it in reverse and it will eliminate the hissing but the buzzer's sound level becomes barely audible.
I found the best results with this:
http://www.radioshack.com/prod...62402
It doesn't have a built in driver though but all you need to get it to work is to attach a resistor in parallel to the buzzer and it should work. I can't recall what resistor value I used. Its not quite as loud as stock, but better than the other buzzers I tried and no hissing. When I have some free time I'll try some other resistor values to see if it makes any difference. I don't know how piezo buzzers work, but if its like a speaker, it should get louder if the overall resistance of the circuit drops. A lower value resistor would drop the resistance to a greater extent.
I've also heard of people using a computer speaker as well. Not sure what kind of specs they used, but I don't think there is a big range of differences.
Do run the diagnostics to confirm what the problem is though.