Somewhat calmer. I wasn't so much interested in getting the alarm to function as designed, more wanting it not to go off again when it shouldn't. I did eventually find more detailed info, at least in terms of the wiring than previously. Being an electrician/electronics tech I was puzzled at first by the nomenclature. Closed, means the circuit is closed, or connected. Open the opposite, but the schematic shows closed as open and visa versa. It seems to refer to the door, not the circuit.
Since the hatch was suspect, I disconnected the plug going to it, to I assume take it out the the equation, I can live with the light not coming on from the hatch. Next looking at the horns, the anti horn fuse is one of the horns, the tenor I think, but I'm not positive. The horn fuse is for the baritone horn. Then since it shows a signal coming from the Dumb, er Smart Entrance control unit going to the horn relay, #42, which matched a color going to the horn relay. I tried to extract the pin from the connector once I figured out what was where since the control unit is upside down from what the schematic shows. No luck on extraction and I've had pretty good luck in the past improvising tools for pin extraction. So I pulled it out of the harness a bit and went for the wire cutters. Long enough to reconnect if for some reason it should be needed, but currently insulated with heat shrink tubing.
Hopefully this will prevent future false activation of that bleeping alarm horn.
Overall, not as bad as I feared. Still pi****** I should have to dig in there, but not that bad. Next time it would be a snap.