03 M45 Brake job- Rotors and Pads

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
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DRIPS
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:03 pm
Car: 2003 Infiniti M45

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I will be changing my rear rotors and pads today with OEM pads from Nissan and rotors that I picked up locally. I will do a write up and let you guys know how it goes.

It is raining out so I am just going to have to put the rear end of the car into the garage Gotta love dedication.


maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Wow, take a good look at where those rotors are made and who makes them. Many cheap below specification ones out there, expecially Chinese.

OEM specification Brembos that I have seen are made in Canada.

Be sure to clean and adjust emergency brakes.

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DRIPS
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:03 pm
Car: 2003 Infiniti M45

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Well this was a very easy install compared to other vehicles I have had, solely for the fact that there were no issues with rust! I purchased this vehicle from the south so it made it simple:)

Time: 1.5 hoursDifficulty: Medium

Tools I used:

1) C Clamp (large)2) Flathead screwdriver3) 3/4 drive ratchet4) 3/4 drive extension (short)5) socket ( I forgot to look what size I went with)6) hammer7) brake clean (2 bottles- used about 1.5)8) rags and pizza boxes (put under axle to catch some of brake clean and dirt)

Parts

1) 2 OEM equivelant rotors2) 4 OEM Nissan rear brake pads

Start by jacking up the rear of the car from the proper rear jack point. Be sure to secure front wheels with bricks so it doesnt accidentally roll. Place Jack stand near jack and under car for extra protection. I left the jack in place during the job.

Remove the rear wheel.

Lift hood and open master cylinder to allow breathing room. Place rag under in case of overflow.

Remove the two caliper bracket bolts. One will require that you do not use the extension (top) so that it fits. The lower bolt requires a 1.5 or 2 inch extension to get the wrench far enough past suspension components for clearance. I had to tap the wrench with the hammer once or twice to break loose the bolts.

Pull off caliper assemble and place safely on top of suspension components. Secure with wire so that it does not damage break line and fall.

Remove rotor. Take our rubber grommet that holds the place for the drive bolt (gets rotor loose if really stuck). My rotor came right off.

Thoroughly clean the rotor with the break cleaner. Make sure all grease for rotor factory is removed. Put rotor onto hub and secure with two lug nuts temporarily.

Remove brake pads from caliper. Remove low pad warning metal tabs. Clean caliper thoroughly. Use C Clamp to push piston back into caliper as far as it goes. Make sure to do this slowly and evenly as to not damage.

Put low pad warning tabs back into caliper. Take off the tabs from the old brake pads and put onto the new pads exactly as they were on previous pads.

Place the brake pads into the caliper. Make sure to do this correctly. Make sure to get pad correctly seated.

Put caliper over rotor. This may require working the caliper (sliding back and forth carefully) until you can push all the way on.

Replace the two bolts.

Remove the lug nuts.

Put wheel on.

Unjack car and switch sides.


maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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No parking brake maintenance?

No high temperature lube on the pins!

auditech10
Posts: 821
Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:24 pm
Car: 03 M45

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Good job, it really is that easy to do!

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szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
Location: San Jose, CA

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One additional thing I would mention. It is vital to break-in (no pun intended ) the brake pads so that they are properly seated and functioning well from the get go.

The purpose is to avoid ending up with a pad that comes off over time in "clumps" on the rotor when hot because it is still "soft" - this leads to vibration while braking, and confuses people into thinking that their rotors are "warped".

Here is the procedure (modified from the Service Manual).

CAUTION:

Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution, please!

1. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at 50 to 60 mph.

2. Use reasonably hard, consistent braking pressure on the pedal to bring the vehicle down to 5 to 10 mph and heat up the pad and rotors. DO NOT come to a complete stop! There is NO reason to let a hot pad sit on a hot rotor at one physical location and drop a big clump of pad material onto the rotor!

3. Speed up again (don't need to leave tire marks! ) and repeat the above procedure 7 to 10 times - remember, do NOT come to a stop at any time.

4. Go for a cool down drive, on the highway perhaps, for at least 5 to 10 minutes (no braking), never having come to a stop during this entire process.

Z

peter_rabbit
Posts: 169
Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:44 am
Car: 2003 m45 white pearl, '99 mustang gt vert

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I will be doing my brakes within a week or so. Do i have to get the pads from the dealer or is there other brakes that equal OEM. The object is to have very little brake dust and not having to take out a 2nd mortgage on the house to afford the pads.

I thank you in advance for all feedback.

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Eyedea
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maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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peter_rabbit wrote:Do i have to get the pads from the dealer or is there other brakes that equal OEM. The object is to have very little brake dust and not having to take out a 2nd mortgage on the house to afford the pads.
Brake pads from the OEM are the only ones specifically formulated for street driving in that vehicle. All third party pads are just generic formulations cut to fit.

Nothing wrong with brake pad dust. Would you rather have longer initial cold stops and have your rotors wear more quickly?

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Eyedea
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maxnix wrote:
Brake pads from teh OEM are the only ones specifically formulated for street driving in that vehicle. All third party pads are just generic formulations cut to fit.

Nothing wrong with brake pad dust. Would you rather have longer initial cold stops and have your rotors wear more quickly?
I got cheap break pads from pepboys, and oh how i regret that decision! The brake dust is getting out of hand.

Soon to buy OEM pads. Dont make the same mistake that I did .

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DRIPS
Posts: 385
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:03 pm
Car: 2003 Infiniti M45

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I always would say go with OEM pads ALWAYS. It is much better and the cost is not significant. I got mine from Joe for this brake job at everythinginfiniti.com.

I agree with the breaking in the brake pads. I did do that and forgot to mention. Thanks!

They are working perfect!

peter_rabbit
Posts: 169
Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:44 am
Car: 2003 m45 white pearl, '99 mustang gt vert

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Went on the everythinginfiniti website. I must say, the prices there are very good. I will definately be purchasing from there for now on.

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szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
Location: San Jose, CA

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peter_rabbit wrote:Went on the everythinginfiniti website. I must say, the prices there are very good. I will definately be purchasing from there for now on.
!!

Joe Tsensky there has been very supportive of NICO members for years. If you call and place the order, and tell him (specifically) you are with NICO, he will go out of his way to do extra things if he can. Cannot change prices, but will often charge you for ground and ship via air and things like that. And also help resolve problems quickly (sometimes things go awry ... happens to the best of us.)

Z

peter_rabbit
Posts: 169
Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:44 am
Car: 2003 m45 white pearl, '99 mustang gt vert

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I will definately give him a call. Thanks for everything.


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