03 350Z Clutch fork dust boot, MC/SC & pedal travel questions. (Sorry, long)

[HeavyDuty]

Hi all,

I'm doing a JWT clutch, flywheel and the correct JWT TOB on a 80k mile 350Z that I *didn't* disassemble and although I'm done, I have a few questions/concerns. I do have an FSM but some of the illustrations are hard to decipher.

1) The clutch fork dust boot looks like it would extend out from the bellhousing, but when installed in that manner, the operating cylinder boot is on top of it. It kinda looks like fork boot should stick "in" the BH so as not to bind the operating cylinder piston.

2) We've verified the clutch is engaging and disegaging, and no work was done to the master/operating cylinder until we noticed the pedal was on the floor after installing the operating cylinder on the BH. The flex line was raggedy and split when bending it by hand, so we replaced it and then the operating cylinder after discovering black trash and dirty fluid while flushing/bleeding the master, new line and new operating cylinder.

So...the master isn't exhibiting any leakage inside the cabin or outside in the clutch/brake reservoir "room" under the hood but the pedal goes to the floor and won't retract after 15 or so sequences of bleeding. There is a slight whisper sound that sounds like it's coming from the master on the first two pumps of the pedal while bleeding. I understand there's a bypass valve in the master that lets the fluid return & should return the pedal back to it's original up position. If that valve gets blocked, it should also cause the same symptoms.

I did a search and saw some posts about adjusting the pedal, which I can do but didn't want to fool with it if it's not the issue. I wanted to keep everthing as much as it was when I got it disassembled so as not to make matters worse. When extended up, the clutch pedal is about 1/2" higher than the brake pedal.

So...does the fork boot stick in or out? Would the pedal adjustment likely fix the pedal return or do you guys think I should do the master then bleed and adjust the pedal last?

TIA

[evildky]

I have no clue on your dustboot issue, I thought these used a hydraulic TO bearing?

your pedal issue sounds liek a bad master or slave ro both, it's generally a good idea to replace them as a pair

[HeavyDuty]

No, it's not a hydro bearing, it has a fork & pivot ball and all that.

Replacing both MC/SC is the way to go, I was just trying to *not* throw parts at it. Then the dust boot gig looks funky. If only I hadn't inherited the thing after it was all apart.

Even if I just had a good pic of the slave cylinder fork, boot on an 03 I'd be good.

[evildky]

dust boots just keep dust out , they aren't necesarry

[KAOSWHN]

Having the same problem. Replaced transmission. Changed to jwt clutch and flywheel with thicker throw out to compensate for thinner kit. Also changed master and slave, and bled and bled and bled, and still no pressure in the pedal. Clutch pedal will not go back up. Please help

[HeavyDuty]

Has anyone had an experience with the clutch orifice tube inline between the clutch master & operating cylinder? You can see it on the CL diagram in that section of the FSM.

While doing multiple bleeds on this thing, we got a lot of black trash out of the lines (specs of the degenerated flex line and master/slave seal & piston.) The master & operating cylinders as well as the flex line from the frame rail to the operating cylinder have all been replaced. This orifice tube is the only part left in the system.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[HeavyDuty]

OK, so, duh me.

When we received our remanufactured transmission, it came with a new clutch fork pivot ball so I installed the fork & bearing retainer on the input shaft.

The pivot ball was wrong. We dug through the box-O-parts that came from the shop who dismantled it & there was the original ball. I installed it and all was well with the world again.