'02 Q45 Crushed Rear Bumper Cover

[djwarner]

Today while running errands, I was backing out of a parking spot went I was struck in the right rear corner by another driver backing out of his spot. Only the bumper cover at the right corner was mangled and pushed in.

It looks like it could be repaired by pushing from the back, but I could not get good access while still on the car.

Any suggestions, tips, or hints for the DIYer - or is this a job for the local body shop?

There are no '02 Q's in local salvage yards.

[mlawre10]

Today while running errands, I was backing out of a parking spot went I was struck in the right rear corner by another driver backing out of his spot. Only the bumper cover at the right corner was mangled and pushed in.

It looks like it could be repaired by pushing from the back, but I could not get good access while still on the car.

Any suggestions, tips, or hints for the DIYer - or is this a job for the local body shop?

There are no '02 Q's in local salvage yards.

From Dent Pimp



The most effective way I've found to remove the dents in the plastic bumpers is a three step process...

First, I use a curing lamp (that mobile painters use) to heat the damage and surrounding area. The heat from the lamp softens a large enough area for pushing the bulk of the damage out. When you heat a larger area, it allows more of the pressure and crowning to dissipate as it softens the plastic. With the larger surface area heated and pliable, there is less pressure required to move large or deep damage. Before you push, evaluate the shape of the dent to try to determine where the bulk of the pressure is being held. This should be your first push once the temperature is appropriate. With the painted surface properly heated, the paint has less chance of "spidering" due to its pliability.

Second, I use a heat gun for directed heat on remaining crowns and lows and work each part of the deformation just like a normal (metal) dent. The most important part of this is to partially quench each area as you work the deformations out. I use a block of aluminum that I have made into a dolly. The aluminum dissipates the heat quickly, but only enough to "pin" the repair into place. (The dolly also comes in useful as a prying instrument on larger, flatter deformations.)

You can get close to the same cooling effect by keeping a damp cloth nearby and lightly water quenching the specific area you work. The problem with using the damp cloth is the possibility of damaging the paint while it is hot. If the surface is really hot the cloth will leave an impression of its texture on the paint surface. The best way to quench with the rag is to work from the back of the panel.

Lastly, Let the area start to cool. Once the paint is cool enough to not be damaged, a full water quench on the entire surface will stabilize the plastic and solidify the repair.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-200 ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/infiniti ... ccessories

[djwarner]

Thanks for the quick post. I'm going to visit a friend of my son who has a small body shop today.

[mcrews]

wow, he said that so articulately!!!!
I was going to say " that type of bumper will go back to its original shape (kind of a memory) but you have to apply some heat.

nice find mlawre!!!

[mlawre10]

Thanks for the quick post. I'm going to visit a friend of my son who has a small body shop today.

np and cool!!!!

[djwarner]

I'm finally getting around to working on the corner dent on my bumper cover.

Re-reading mlawre10's instructions, I'm wondering if I can get by with an infra-red heat lamp and a heat gun or whether commercial heat curing lamps are required?

Also, do you do it while the bumper cover is on the car, or do you need to remove it first? The inside of the corner is relatively easy to reach from underneath.

[BadQ45t]

I had a similar issue, I found a body shop to remove the bumper cover, do the repair and re-install it for about $250 bucks. Came out perfect using essentially the same method described.