Where can I buy that?Q45tech wrote:US and Japanese car engineering philosophies and methods are different.
The first thing required is to secure the Factory Service Manual and spend a few weeks reading and rereading it.
Brilliant, thanks!96Qowner wrote:Infiniti Of Scottsdale, 1-888-216-5328, ask for Joe, say Wes sent you.
Stillen brembos much cheaper form Joe and much better than OEM in my experience. OEM pads only unless you are autocrossing.xerexabante wrote:i have the same problem. i replaced the rotor (OE) and the pads (OE). after 3 mos. same thing again. Welll I called my supplier and found me drilled, slotted rotors $120 a piece. this should last me a while.
But if you go to http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti/ you can get the TSB also (the throttle/ECM.TCU is very important for your year of F50).
Yes, and nothing to do with braking - just a fix for an annoyance.brymax wrote:The throttle ECM issue for my year ('02)? This was an service update put out by the manuf. that I need to check and see if was ever done, right? I think I saw that somewhere here. And what does that have to do with the shimmy when braking?
Yes, it could well be a hub that's out of balance. Always best to check everything.brymax wrote:And the hub issue needs to be checked prior to buying new rotors and pads?
brymax wrote:Oh yeah, and what's "autocrossing"?
Hey there we go! Someone who speaks English, thanks.96Qowner wrote:
Yes, and nothing to do with braking - just a fix for an annoyance.
Yes, it could well be a hub that's out of balance. Always best to check everything.
A racing competition - beating the crap out of a car, tearing along country roads - drifting, braking, etc. There have been many threads on brake pads. The general consensus is that OEM are best, not too hard, not too much dust, etc - just right.
That's the spirit!brymax wrote:And when the whole thing goes completely wrong, the car's left up on stands in the garage with the wheels off, and I leave my my wife stranded at home with the baby and no car, I'll just tell her the guys on my car blog set it would be easy!
Usually it is the lateral runout being too great so even a true rotor mounted on such a hub is tilted with respect to the plane of the caliper - thus the rotor has a built in wobble.96Qowner wrote:Yes, it could well be a hub that's out of balance. Always best to check everything.
Actually it is a timed competition on a course demarked with traffic pylons usually laid out on a runway or parking lot with a lot of tight turns.96Qowner wrote:A racing competition - beating the crap out of a car, tearing along country roads - drifting, braking, etc. There have been many threads on brake pads. The general consensus is that OEM are best, not too hard, not too much dust, etc - just right.
Over torquing can distort the hubs and cause them to be out of specification. Retorquing to the correct values will not correct the hub distortion.xerexabante wrote:i hope this drilled slotted rotors work. one other thing that helped is the correct tourqe on the wheel nuts. but the shrudder is still there.