01 QX4 shift flare 2-3 problem (possable $ if you can solve)

[polarbear225]

Hello all,

I have a 01 infiniti Qx4 SUV. It is 4x4 with a RE4R01A transmission. I am at a complete loss for what the problem is. I have had a new transmission installed and it had not solved the problem.

The problem is the car starts out and 1-2 works great 2-3 as soon as i get to about 2000 rpm's the engine goes directly to RED LINE almost as if the transmission is slipping. This is at less then quarter throttle. I can not drive the car like this. I am about to send it to the wrecking yard its a same because I love the car. I have check the transmission fluid and it seems to be over filled. Will this effect the transmission?

I can disconnect the Throttle position sensor and the whole care shifts GREAT!!! the only problem is that it will not downshift or up shift to go any faster for freeway speeds if i put my foot into the gas pedal. But all the gears work great. I have tried several TPS sensors it makes no difference. I am not sure what do to from this point. The car seems to have a 1500-1600 rpm hesitation if i give the car pas in park position.

I had paid a local shop over 500 bucks so far and they have produced no answers. Has anyone on the form experienced a problem like this?

I have seen the TSB online for replacing the transmission sift comp and the shift packs. I have had this done with no difference. I have also attempted to have the MAF cleaned replaced and the fuel filter cleaned replaced. I am not showing any codes.

Anyone who can solve my problem I may or may not be willing to send some $ to.

[MisterH]

Are you saying the shifting problem you described was present BEFORE you installed a new transmission?

[polarbear225]

Yes it was present. After the new transmission install it just got worse and worse.

[Mike W.]

Dumb question, is this an electronic transmission? Does it have it's own ECU? It sounds like it from the interaction with the TPS. Anyway, if so, it sounds like the control unit, the ECU, or whatever it's called in Nissan speak, might well be the problem since it probably didn't get replaced when the transmission did. If it's not telling the right solenoids to open and close at the right times, it could well be what your problem. Again, not being a Nissan expert, it might be integrated into the engine ECU, regardless, it sounds like a control or perhaps wiring issue. Shift flare on older, pure hydraulic transmissions didn't tend to be as extreme as you're experiencing. They would generally flare up, then catch, or catch as you lifted the pedal some.

I doubt the transmission being overfilled a little is the problem, but modern trannys can be very touchy on many things, including fluid level. Drain a bit and see, the price is right.

[macgiver]

mac here,I believe I have same trans in the J30 , some facts : Infiniti Senior Tranmission tech says "nothing electrical , ie. ECM ,TCM (Transmission Control Module) and those solenoids IN the trans will NOT CAUSE - NO DRIVE 1st , orNO REVERSE " so by logic the basics of transmission can be sort of verified via a good D1 & Rev . Fluid level ,? who's adding too much shop or you for I can understand reading marks can be mis-interpreted - BUT I've heard here AND other forums RE4R01A is "Susceptible"to damage from ANY overfill . Also consensus is Synthetic ATF (like a Mob-1) can excascerbate/amplify/develop problems in these .Now the " De-Facto " indication of a DANGEROUS' overfill is the "FOAMed fluid on Dipstick" .Best fluid ,in this order (if diagn. any problems) is : Nissan-D , Castrol Dexron (III or IV I Believe) -specifically the " Made for Import / JAPANESE Vehicles" , Mob-1 ONLY -if all's well / Hot-HOT or Cold COLD climates.
Craziest aspect is the TPS - now it's picked up by ECM , we know , but I believe in addition by the TCM too , and ECM + TCM handshake data and 'spose-ta shift trans properly
My 93 "J" was not OBD-II and so the FSM had a TCM / transmission "System / Electrical test" covering over half dozen componant / systems via Ign. key / Br. pedal / WOT on the gas etc. sequences which initiated TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSTICSyours MUST have this ( OBD-II ver.) . Bad solenoids(3??) , which that INFINITI Trans GURU told me do the shifting after D-1, ought to "show" in this "Diagnostic".
First if you have to , "crack" that drain-plug to let some fluid out to NO MORE than 1/8" DOWN from MAX w/engine NORMAL HOT All this background info / pre-requisites gone over aside - SUSPECT the TCM module (I sometimes fix myself these & other modules that Switch / control power , I RE-Solder the Power MOSFET or Bi-Polar trnsistors's LEGS which MAY have "cold solder Jts. )
Lastly ,I hate to "Harp" on mechanic / shop practices - but They sort of dropped the ball here ( I know it'a tough diagnosis)
BUT ,many shops doing a rebuild or was yours a Reman. or a J-Yard/Recycle , sometimes a shop for some reason meddles with the "Guts" , like if they "aquire " one w/ a known "Bad solenoid" ( Right ) and sell it to you and install , from God knows where ,even used solenoids - see where I'm going ?
FIRST - YOU can find & figure & DO the TCM DIAGNOSTIC yourself I believe ,post back on ANYTHING i mentioned even
PM me if you want ,initial questions or discussing results . Respectfully G.T. 2/22/2018

[polarbear225]

I have had the ecm tested and was confirmed it worked great. I have swapped the TCM out with another used one and it makes no difference. not to say that the replacement tcm didn't also have cold solder joints. The transmission was removed from a wrecking yard car. I drove the doner car before the transmission was removed and it worked great.

[polarbear225]

I have a snapon solus scan tool I hooked up and I am not showing any transmission codes at all. if that helps

[Hawairish]

@polarbear225: can you rephrase the symptoms a little? I feel like there's a detail missing, and every bit helps.

The problem is the car starts out and 1-2 works great 2-3 as soon as i get to about 2000 rpm's the engine goes directly to RED LINE almost as if the transmission is slipping.

So 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are normal, but presumably 3-OD is not good? When it goes to red line, does the vehicle accelerate, decelerate, or stay at the same speed? What does it do when you have OD off?

I can disconnect the Throttle position sensor and the whole care shifts GREAT!!! the only problem is that it will not downshift or up shift to go any faster for freeway speeds if i put my foot into the gas pedal.

It shifts great but it doesn’t shift at freeway speeds? Shift points vary by speed and throttle position. How/when are you disconnecting the TPS? Are you able to drive around without the TPS connected and without throwing a code?

Everything reads like a drop in line pressure, which is transmission related and the problem shouldn’t have carried over with the replacement transmission, I wouldn’t think. TCM would have been my next guess, but you’ve ruled that out.

Did you reuse any of your original transmission sensors? What about the torque converter…was it replaced?
While I think excess fluid would have a possibly adverse affect, if the issue existed before, you’d have to presume that the previous transmission was also overfilled.
Does the Snap-On Solus have any usable real-time data monitoring for the transmission? I’m not really sure our TCMs support monitoring via OBD, with a CONSULT unit anyway. The scanner I use seems pretty robust, but it couldn’t return data from my 04 AT.

Have you read through the AT chapter in the FSM? Lots of troubleshooting steps there.



@macgiver: Sorry…what?

[polarbear225]

When it goes to red line, does the vehicle accelerate, decelerate, or stay at the same speed? What does it do when you have OD off?

It makes no difference if the OD is on or off. It says at the same speed about 20-25 mph

How/when are you disconnecting the TPS? Are you able to drive around without the TPS connected and without throwing a code?

Yes it is throwing a code for the TPS and for a swirl control valve.


Did you reuse any of your original transmission sensors? What about the torque converter…was it replaced?

ALL sensors and the torque converter were used from the doner car that had NO problems.

Does the Snap-On Solus have any usable real-time data monitoring for the transmission? I’m not really sure our TCMs support monitoring via OBD, with a CONSULT unit anyway. The scanner I use seems pretty robust, but it couldn’t return data from my 04 AT.

Yes I have so many functions on this thing that its nuts. It returns all kind of real time data. the scan tool set me back 5000 when it was new in 2014.


How can i manual pull transmission line pressure? Is there a specification chart somewhere.

I high don't think its a transmission internal problem. When tps is disconnected all gears work GREAT. The transmission just wont downshift when I give it the gas pedal.

[polarbear225]

When it goes to red line, does the vehicle accelerate, decelerate, or stay at the same speed? What does it do when you have OD off?

It makes no difference if the OD is on or off. It says at the same speed about 20-25 mph

How/when are you disconnecting the TPS? Are you able to drive around without the TPS connected and without throwing a code?

Yes it is throwing a code for the TPS and for a swirl control valve.


Did you reuse any of your original transmission sensors? What about the torque converter…was it replaced?

ALL sensors and the torque converter were used from the doner car that had NO problems.

Does the Snap-On Solus have any usable real-time data monitoring for the transmission? I’m not really sure our TCMs support monitoring via OBD, with a CONSULT unit anyway. The scanner I use seems pretty robust, but it couldn’t return data from my 04 AT.

Yes I have so many functions on this thing that its nuts. It returns all kind of real time data. the scan tool set me back 5000 when it was new in 2014.


How can i manual pull transmission line pressure? Is there a specification chart somewhere.

I high don't think its a transmission internal problem. When tps is disconnected all gears work GREAT. The transmission just wont downshift when I give it the gas pedal.

[MisterH]

This may sound far-fetched but you might try the TPS relearn process. The reason why I suggest this is because when your transmission was replaced the battery was disconnected for a long time and the settings were erased from the ECU.

[macgiver]

we're all "bangi'n our heads here" on the biggest stump which is IF IT'S a DIFFERENT Transmission ....... just what if case + guts was NOT SWAPPED !! , for the situation would be as it is now . Say an intermittant solenoid (1 of 4) in valve body ,or it's hydraulic ckt clogged is what's going on , shop's DIS-repair was very temporary ! With your present situation NOW maybe dropping the pan , blowout screen , unplug ea. solenoid & use a FUSED-Jumper (say 10A fuse is all needed) - energize all 4 solenoids several times , cause they have a "distinctive click" ,(many are same part # ) if WEIRD remove it (FSM "componant chk." helpful here) and see if in your HAND the "Action" seems powerful enough to push the Valve body piston . Solenoids also have an "Ohms spec) - can be chked via multimeter . FSM has good Troubleshooting symptom chart - Flair/slip involves the solenoid & Br. Band, gotta chk. line pressure tap (line L side , rev press. tap Rt. side of case) . Last BUT NOT LEAST external THING ya really need to check / Re-adjust ( if you can access easily - pay shop ) the BRAKE-BAND (L case ?)
Band Adj = remove cover(fork or "snap strap" , loosen lock NUT , loosen(CCW) 3 turns - to fully "unload" , now do adj. -CW tighten 2.9 to 4.3 ft/lbs (go & convert "/lbs =safer/ finer Adj. ; TIP be closer to the high end or 4.3) , now -UNDO CCW, TURN 2 1/2 - it's SET , snug LOCKNUT . I feel for ya man and I had a shop - long ago - that claimed were done with "main seal " they didn't do and was sure NOT , I showed / proved to them , heck I had to initmidate them , didn't pay and got the car out of there Man basically the WEIRD TPS thing seems to fit this scenario right Of the odd combinations of sypmtoms of "Unlimited Supply , ,,and there is no reason why!" ? A quote from Johnny Rotten here. It's you orig. transmission - "The calls are coming from inside the house !
Good luck G 2/24/2018

[Rockwood]

Hmmmmm.... does seem like the problem is external to the transmission since the transmission worked fine in the donor vehicle.

The rice burners have a trick where they disconnect the dropping resistor, which is up by the battery. The reisistor normally works to help provide smooth shifts. When you disconnect the resistor, the transmission goes to full line pressure, and shifts become quick and rough at partial throttle.

So I am thinking you should disconnect it, and see if your flare goes away. You don't want to leave it disconnected permanently - full line pressure is not good long term. I am guessing this part did not get replaced when you did the swap?

If it works, try replacing the resistor and making sure your wiring and connectors to the resistor are in good shape.

In the FSM, AT section, you can see the wiring diagram on page AT-164. The wires are brown yellow one side, green yellow the other.

If I am the lucky winner and this helps out, I would be glad to take a donation to my paypal account. I promise not to declare it on my income tax return. Standard disclaimer: it may be used for alcoholic beverages or other generally useless but fun things!!

[macgiver]

mac , not being facetious at all but Polarbear - 1st post ,third sentence " I have had a NEW transmission installed "(assuming it's this SHOP -a shop & not you ?) now really it was USED transmission "tested " in J-yard , so repsectfully ,did you "personally witness removal & trnsport & especially WITNESS yours ( ex. did you "Mark" yours to be sure of swappage?) being actually removed ie. on ground , and most importantly Absolutely POSITIVE "NOT YOURS" was INTALLED back -in ? Or for that matter AT-ALL . I have heard this ,actually happened to friends - similar type situations happened to me firsthand , and I'm really not trying to be be the "Harbinger" here but this is very strange baffling Szzhatt ! G 2/24/2018

[macgiver]

mac ,at first look I as well as others MAY be overlooking the 4X4 aspect of : WHAT IF it's the x-fer case's slippage whilst the actual issue that's THE origin of all this is taking TPS signal as "Glitch" and actuates say only ONE side of a Dual clutch Diff , simililar to a Vectoring AWD - and/or ONLY ONE ( R. or L. side)of the clutches is energized or one clutch is worn that IT abruptly SLIPS @ a high torque condition . IS that describing your 4X4 "breaking loose , a transmission flair" @ elevated - 1500-1600 RPM' ( Hi-Torque kicks-in there) ??? And may not relate to whether AWD is "Selected" or turned on even - a GLITCH ! More food for thought G 2/24/2018

[polarbear225]

I have no idea what macgiver is saying about the transfer case. Hmm Yes i am absolutely sure the transmission was swapped. I paid over 1500 for this to be done and I sat and watched it be done. This is the 4th time the transmissions has bee in and out of this car to fix the rear main seal. The only thing I did not witness was them putting any oil in the transfer case. Al tho I was charged for it so i am assuming they put it in.

Can someone please post a picture of this engine bay connector that makes the transmission go to full pressure. I drained out about a gallon of atf out of the transmission today. seems I drained a little to much I will have to purchase some more tomorrow.

[macgiver]

mac , I see your ON now , man that's a tough "cookie to crack" , please let us know what's going on for the final FIX G 2/24/2018

[Rockwood]

I do not have a picture of the dropping resistor I talked about. There are two of them on the inner fender right to the left of the battery.. They are about 3 to 4 inches long, maybe half an inch wide. Mounted vertically.

Wire colors I mentioned will tell you which one you want to disconnect!