01 pathfinder head gaskets

[wing in atlanta]

Hello; new to the forum. Would like to know how difficult and any special tooling it takes to change out head gaskets? Also any suggestions on gasket set to purchase? Anything else while tore down that should need attention?

[Towncivilian]

Apply red threadlocker to the power valve screws while it's apart. It's possible that no threadlocker was applied at the factory and one or more can back out and become ingested (hopefully this has not happened already if your head gasket truly is bad or there are other engine issues).

Page EM-39 of the factory service manual and forwards has an exploded parts view as well as instructions on reaching the cylinder head. If you need any OEM part numbers for gaskets and such, let me know which ones you need along with your VIN.

Welcome to NICO.

[wing in atlanta]

Thank you for the reply. The resson I need the heads off is I beleave I have a coolant leak. I know there isn't an external leak. I did a radator leak test and I lose about 1 1/2 lbs in 20 min. I can see a bubble come out of the radator only when I increase the rpm off idle. Does anyone know if the heads warp easy or maybe just a bad gasket. The truck only has 137,000. Thanks for all the help.

[cps2001path]

I too have a small leak at the right rear (cylinder 5) of my '01. What did you decide to do to repair? Did you replace the head gaskets. I have read the Haynes and Chilton manuals on replacing head gaskets. Both conflict themselves by first saying the head gaskets can be removed without engine in place. Then they both state the engine must be removed prior to head removal due to a rear water passage pipe that is inacessible. does anyone here know the actual procedure. Can the head gaskets be replaced with engine in place or is it easier to just remove?

[Chuck Tribolet]

The manual that counts is the FACTORY service manual. It's here on the site somewhere.

I'd throw away the Chilton's (one size fits none). Haynes can have some useful shade-tree tricks, but
would be number 2 to the FSM.

Chuck

[Chuck Tribolet]

BTW, the first thing I'd do is retorque the heads. Follow the bolt pattern in the FSM. Pull out each head bolt,
apply Permatex silver antiseize compond #80071 to the threads and retorque. After you are done, retorque the
bolt pattern twice.

That MIGHT clear up your leak. It's zero cost, except for the antiseize, which you should have anyway,
and maybe rocker cover gaskets.

Chuck

[cps2001path]

Chuck, thanks for the suggestion. I had actually thought of trying this but was afraid to loosen and re-torque the TTY bolts. Everything I have read says dont reuse them. Would you recommend the standard order torque sequence or the reverse order torque sequence? I assume you mean one bolt at a time. Would you recommend re-torquing to the actual specified torque or maybe slightly less. We always torque to about 5% less when using thread locker or anti-sieze. But I am unsure about this practice with TTY bolts.

Thanks for your help.

[Chuck Tribolet]

If they are Torque to Yield then, yes, I'd replace the bots. You might try just replacing the ones around the leaking cylinder.

Chucl