01 Pathfinder diff help

[diablo9420]

Damn well this project will have to wait another day for me to put more on my account, wich one is more crucial? transmission or diff, cuz i only have money for 1 at the moment, and id prefer to do the more apt to fail first, or does it not matter after so many miles if i run either for another week

[diablo9420]

well i jus asked the nissan parts guy how much the fluid is and he said it jus has to be 75-90 manual transmission fluid i can go anywhere for it, he said he never heard of gl-4 before, and thats $12.xx a quart from there, do i jus go to them for it?

[Towncivilian]

Well, the service manual specifically lists GL-4 only... GL-5 was around in 2001 and is what the differentials are spec'd for, so if GL-5 was compatible with the manual trans I'm sure Nissan would have listed it. I know 86.5 thru 1995 Pathfinders with manual trans also require GL-4 fluid.

I would say the trans is more crucial in this circumstance. Redline is only a dollar per quart more than Nissan's stuff. Either way, it is expensive since you'll be needing 6 quarts of the stuff...

[diablo9420]

Well what would probroly be better redline or nissan? And good call on the recall when I called thy said I had two recalls one for the rust on the struts and one for the filler neck there ordering the parts then calling me to make an appoinyment, she said they fix it no matter what it jus takes diff amount of time due to severaty

[Towncivilian]

Redline is better, as its specifications are known and many people have used it with great results. Shame it's so expensive, but MTF is something I would change around every 50k, so it's not like it's a frequent expense to swallow. I'd run the Mobil 1 gear oil in the rear diff for 50k as well before changing out (unless you tow, then maybe something like 30k interval). The change interval for the front diff depends on how often you use 4WD.

The fuel filler tube recall is a quick one (probably an hour tops), but the strut housing inspection may take an hour and a half or so. Depending on the severity of the rust, if any, around the strut housing, the repair will likely take at least two hours. But remember, all this work is free for you.

[diablo9420]

where do i buy the red line stuff? i was thinkin royal purple but idk if they do mtf, as for 4wd ive used it once for like 30 seconds, me and my friend wanted to see how it was on some trails and i needed the 4wd for a small spot that was like 3 feet deep of water and mud, i didnt drive straight in jus half my car cuz i didnt wanna get stuck lol

The lady said be prepared to lose my car up to two days, depending on how bad it is, mine doesnt look that bad, but might aswell have them look it over and get any fixes i can

do uk any type of bolt on exhausts for the pathfinder? i was looking and havent found any, kinda want dual exhaust with a couple flowmaster mufflers

[Towncivilian]

You can purchase Redline MT-90 on Amazon or directly from Redline itself. Also, any time you submerge the differential(s) and transmission, you must change the fluid as water entry is very bad (or in the case of the transmission, check for water entry - see FSM page MA-23 - and change fluid if water is present). The driveshafts must also be regreased as soon as possible after potential water entry.

I know nothing of exhaust systems, sorry. I hope your Pathfinder doesn't have much rust to be repaired!

[diablo9420]

s*** itd be nice if they took it and gave me a newer one lol, well i bought the u joints to replace but the bolts were so rusted on they wouldnt break loose and my access to a torch is limited so i havent been able to do that, and it was only like one side that got in the water, the diff prolly got wet on the side if anything, not the whole thing

[Towncivilian]

What did you buy u joints for, specifically? I don't follow, sorry.

Water entry or not, your diffs and trans are due for fluid changes. Keep us updated!

[diablo9420]

cuz my uncle said i need new ones, he said the vibration in my car is from them, although i dont but i have no clue what its from, its very bad, i check my front wheel bearings the one wasnt put on correctly and i fixed that and it still vibrates im guessin my wheels need balancing, idk, giant pain if u ask me. u mentioned water getting in the drive shaft and it made me think of how rusted it was so i was kinda giving u a vizualization i guess lol.

i will be changing them asap, ill probly go with the nissan fluid for now because of hassle to get the redline stuff, hopefully everything works out ok, very grateful for the help and advice

[diablo9420]

well do to the current flooding my fluid swap has been postponed but i will let you know as soon as i swap it out

[sicwitit]

Unless I missed something, no one really answered why your clutch burnt instead of your tires making smoke. It all boiled down to one factor.....Friction! your tires may have spun a little, but if you combine the weight of the vehicle to the contact patch or your tires on the road, it has more friction then your clutch on the flywheel. when this happens what ever is the weakest link will fail first, which is the clutch disk. try it again on Ice, gravel, dirt, etc, etc, where you have less friction and you will get your tires to spin, and it will be much less stress on your drive train.

I second Innovan, don't do this agian! not on pavement anyways. The pathfinder is not a dragster! it was never designed to be. Its not a Ford Lightning, or a Porsche 911 so attempting anything that its not designed for will usually result in catastropic failure. If you properly re-engineer a Pathfinder, it would be more likely to preform burnouts, take corners better, even take jumps in the desert...but this is all after its been tuned to do so....and most importantly after enough moneys have been thrown into it.

I'd follow the advise thats already been given here, and look into buying a 240SX to go beat on..and oh BTW, your Pathy will be able to tow it home from the track if necessary, which is more what it was ment to do.

Cheers, Jon

[diablo9420]

thats great u honestly made my day wit the humor (no sarcasm), id love a 240 but i cant afford to change my transmission fluid so that wont happen anytime soon, i got this pathy for a deal because it was broken, on the rac and pinion where the power steering lines connected was rusted and blocked so the gluid wouldnt work right so i swapped it out with one from a junk yard (100$) bought the truck for 1500$ paid only 500$ cuz the 1000$ was paid as a grad gift, and its needed a few small things since such as a tie rod and the fluids obvs. and at the moment im looking to get an oem clutch from excedy (~$260), its cheaper then the parts store (~$320) and they have a good rep, i cant tell if my clutch is slipping or not, my dad lives on a steep hill, and the last 2 days when i leave in the morning i have it in second acelerating to 30mph and it doesnt wanna go there like it usually does, i mean its been kinda cool out and i was running late to school so mayb its cuz the engine was cold but idk, jus dont want it to break on me, im done with the its new lets test its limit phase, so i jus need it to last for now, as for the gravel burnouts, i do without trying most of the time, and i jus remembered yesterday i was a little irritated with all the closed roads and put it in reverse, never dropped the clutch or nothing was a dry pavement and they were spinning, not like dramatically, but i was like wtf i ddint do nuttin for it to do this, also i think i need a new clutch cuz i dont thinkj its ever been changed and i got 166k on it, another question is the timing chains, what can i expect as far as lasting? and if they go will i need a new engine or am i good? ik im not at all organized when i write my techers tell me often

[Towncivilian]

The timing chain should last the useful life of the vehicle. The chain can stretch and the tensioners, guides etc can possibly fail eventually, but I wouldn't worry about it. I believe I've never read of anybody needing to replace a timing chain in an R50 before.

[diablo9420]

ok good cuz my friends 98 altima jus went and his has around the same miles so it had me worried, but my maxima was at 217k and it never went, the car jus decided it didnt wanna run right and i was tired of working on it, or else that would be my hot rodding car, i was gettin ready to do a vq35 swap in that before it died

[diablo9420]

so i changed my diff fluid, can u tell me an easier way to get the fluid into the diffs cuz it was a giant pain in my a**, it took me all day and i spilt alot of it, so any advice for future reference would be amazing.

o yea the transmission fluid should be in the next week or 2 depending my schedule

and on a further note, my truck went from 17 mpg to 15mpg, is there any advice on what to do? i have a evap code on but its been on so i dought its that, the plugs and packs were replaced just before i got it about a month before, so i dought there bad, its always been ran wit 87, but i started puttin 93, would that foul out the plugs from the engine getting used to it? i also have a another code wich was primary ignition fault or suttin like that, but no misfire code so idk what to do, the 2 codes are p1491 and p1320 idk wich is wich but thats what i read they ment, any advice on that would be amazing

[Towncivilian]

Uhhh, you can use this to help move your gear lube in the future.

Are your air filter and fuel filter recent? If not, change them with OEM or a Wix 46116 air filter or NAPA Gold 3023 for fuel filter.

An EVAP code can harm your gas mileage I think. Change your gas cap with an OEM one (no aftermarket caps).

[diablo9420]

i read its some little white piece thats in the back with the charcoal canister, it has a little sensor on it or somethin, the fuel filter idk, and the air filter needs chaning, but i was gonna get the k&n intake, but that probly wont be for awhile so i better jus get a new filter, i jus think its crazy how it drop so much in the 2-3 months ive had it