’01 Path LE has throttle ‘cable’. When I first picked it up a few months back I noticed how ‘touchy’ the initial acceleration with foot pressure was (compared to other vehicles). Of course I simply adjusted the slack out of the cable (just a few threads left before nut falls off) and trained my foot to be less heavy. The slack is all out but that abruptness is still there if you’re not careful with foot pressure.

I’m curious if the ’abruptness’ in initial acceleration is just engineered in, or if the cable has stretched beyond some balance of design and should be replaced ?
The throttle isn’t the culprit (I don’t think) as I can smoothly / slowly accelerate from a stop but that’s by using a more ‘conscious’ foot control than I would like.

Just replace it. Your description reads like mine before I bought a new one. Cable stretched to the limit with only a threaded or two left for the adjustment and the behavior is more reactive and jerky than responsive and controlled.

Great, that's what I was wondering. Though of course no guarantees it's the issue, it encourages me to put it on my list.

Thank you.

* guessing replacement is very straight forward with no surprises ?

It's easy enough, just awkward working under the dash to connect the cable end.

ah yes, Car Yoga.

fixer3 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 11, 2023 9:50 am

* guessing replacement is very straight forward with no surprises ?

Surprise! I just realized your accelerator adjustment includes a vacuum device called a throttle opener. If you have a 2001.5 model, it does not. My '02 does not either. I'm not familiar with that throttle opener. I'm just thinking there may be more to this than I assumed. The FSM for the 2001 has more details on that.
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2Ffe.pdf

Here is more info on the throttle opener, starting on pg EC-102.
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2Fec.pdf

Thanks for the follow up & the follow up up, I’m learning I need to avail myself of the wealth of the FSM’s.

Makes me wonder if when I adjusted out the cable slack before (which got rid of pedal lag, without any other noticeable effect) if the Throttle Opener was stopping the Throttle Drum from fully tensioning the cable. (?)
( I’m also wondering why folks don’t just shorten a stretched throttle cable by crimping on a new end ferrule etc. ?)

Well after reading EC102 thru EC107 I see there’s a Throttle Drum Stopper (which my T.D. is not resting against) and that to troubleshoot further you need Consult II (?) reader/software(?).

With what limited time I had today I tested the Throttle Opener and I ‘think’ I understand the FSM instructions below about cable adjustment… In that all they are saying is that ‘if’ your Throttle Opener is functioning then keep it out of the way so that the Throttle Drum can fully max to its preset stop without the Throttle Opener impeding it in any way. (?)
Is that how others here would read it ?

Adjusting Accelerator Wire:
1. Remove the vacuum hose connected to the throttle opener.
2. Connect suitable vacuum hose to vacuum pump as shown left. 
 3. Apply vacuum … until the throttle drum becomes free from the rod of the throttle opener.
Make sure that there is clearance between the throttle drum and rod.

If NG, refer to EC-100, “Basic Inspection”.
If OK, go to following step. —> ( √ OK )

4. Loosen lock nut.
5. Tighten accelerator adjusting nut until throttle drum starts to move.
6. From that position, turn back adjusting nut 1.5 to 2 turns, & secure lock nut.
7. Release vacuum from the throttle opener.
8. Remove vacuum pump and vacuum hose from the throttle opener.
9. Reinstall the original vacuum hose to the throttle opener securely.


Throttle Opener & Drum -> https://imgur.com/a/yU474SF
Throttle Drum Stopper -> https://imgur.com/a/VtoCVmP

fixer3 wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 12, 2023 6:51 pm

Makes me wonder if when I adjusted out the cable slack before (which got rid of pedal lag, without any other noticeable effect) if the Throttle Opener was stopping the Throttle Drum from fully tensioning the cable. (?)

Well after reading EC102 thru EC107 I see there’s a Throttle Drum Stopper (which my T.D. is not resting against) and that to troubleshoot further you need Consult II (?) reader/software(?).

In that all they are saying is that ‘if’ your Throttle Opener is functioning then keep it out of the way so that the Throttle Drum can fully max to its preset stop without the Throttle Opener impeding it in any way. (?)
Is that how others here would read it ?

Yep. If you didn't have vacuum applied to the throttle opener when you adjusted the cable, the throttle drum would not be up against the stopper like it needs to be before the cable adjustment is made.

You don't need Consult. Just skip steps 11-14, which are for Consult only. Continue on at step 15 and check to see if your TPS adjustment is correct, if the cable adjustment doesn't resolve the issue.

You are reading that right. The throttle opener rod needs to be disengaged from the drum so that it doesn't mess up the cable adjustment.

Maybe no new cable is needed after all.

Maybe. But the cable must have slacked after all this time because there was terrible pedal lag before I tightened (?)

When I got the Pathfinder I looked at a few youtube videos of common issues & maintenance. One or two were on setting the TPS which I found interesting.
Reading the FSM EC section for this, steps starting at 14/15 & on, you seem to rely on feeler gauges while checking TPS continuity (open/closed) rather than multimeter read voltages that I saw in videos (perhaps for the bulk of later model 2001.5 and on).
Though currently, without changing anything yet, my warmed up idle is 750.

There are bold blue text edits to these FSM’s. Are they updates / corrections / NICO edits ?
The bold blue text on EC112 “Continuity does not exist while closing the throttle valve.” has me confused to its context with 17-(6). ?

I take it that OEM Nissan Throttle Cables are the only game in town as others are too generic a fit ?
After I get around to resetting the Throttle Cable I may find that peddle slack is back, for no other mechanical/electrical reason other than it stretched out of designed 'range', but now at least I know how to properly adjust it or a new one, and troubleshoot the rest of the chain thanks to your help. Very much appreciated.

I reset the Throttle Drum flange to rest against the Drum Stop.

On a crusty old car I found it better to ignore FSM’s suggestion to ‘watch for drum to start to move then back off…’ and just continually rotate / release the Drum because I got a more accurate movement. Then realized that the Drum rotation was sticking a bit, only when initially trying to turn it from its stop position, which is why I was having to jog it to get true resting point. Ah…

Hoping that the sticking wasn’t inside the throttle body I spray lubricated the springs wrapped around /surrounding the Drum axle/rod. That free’d it up instantly and action was smooth.
Took a test drive and, while not dramatic, a bit more reliably smooth acceleration from a stop was gained.

I still don’t have many threads left on the cable ( you could bend the heavy bracket back a bit to gain a thread or two ) but I’ve learned that part of Throttle Cable smoothness issues can be traced to sticky Drum rotation.

Idle unaffected, remains at 750. Still might change the cable in the future thinking there could be friction in an old assembly (not sure spaying lube down the cable is a good idea or not).

*If you don’t have a vacuum hand pump just use a plastic syringe / baster etc for suction and something to clamp off the little hose like I did.

Excellent! I like the syringe trick you did. Nice catch on that sticky, probably dry, drum. If there is any heavy buildup of dirt on the throttle body butterfly valve, it will be heaviest right where it seats and may contribute to it not seating fully closed consistently. That's just routine maintenance though which cleans up nicely with throttle body/air intake spray cleaner. With a ferrule at each end of that cable, it's tough to get any lubricant spray down the length of the sleeve because you can't take the cable out of the sleeve. I tried that once on my old cable, with silicone spray, and just made a big mess.

Yeah, while driving today and with a lubed T.Drum I was able to parse that friction may well be inside the cable or at the pedal linkage(?)
So I did some car yoga about an hour ago and shot Silicone (3% mineral oil / 5% silicone) onto the pedal linkage and, with a nozzle, into the firewall end of the cable hose working it back / forth. Doubt it will do anything and won't know until tomorrow (tired). If it makes difference I'll replace with silicone grease etc.
I half heartedly tried to get the rubber ferrule off the engine side end with my fingers but thought that these cables are designed for low friction and that lube might not make much of a change anyways.
I need to find another Path owner and test drive their ride to see if this is just the way it is. My other rides are full sized trucks and I'm used to a smooth pedal.

I have to do plugs soon (104K) and at that time wanted to clean throttle body but worried about how to do it thinking spray may effect catalytic or sensors adversely. Maybe shoving a low lint cotton rag behind opened butterfly plate to soak up spray? Or is just waiting an hour for cleaner to evaporate (if puddled inside intake) a viable option?

You can pick up a basic scan tool without spending too much. I bought a Foxwell NT301 a few years ago from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJV3E12 It does not scan or read transmission, automatic brake, or airbag fault codes but it does a decent job delivering real time data scanning of the engine, a graphing feature that lets you see real time behavior or the O2 sensors and more. Knowing what the DTC codes are that pop up and others that may be intermittently pending (not flagging the CEL but still an issue) is going to save you big bucks down the road by knowing what to address regarding those DTC issues. Don't worry about using a throttle body spray cleaner. They are O2 sensor and Cat safe. As for the cable assembly, if you need to replace it, there are a few aftermarket brands that will work just as well as OE and won't break the bank. The Nissan part number for the one that fits your ride is 18201-4W000, available on E-bay for about half the cost compared to a dealership.

Thanks again, I looks like the Foxwell is still very well reviewed (for what it is). Is there any point in spending a bit more to get trans / etc. ? Or is it diminishing returns / more learning curve than most will want to put in effort learning.

Lol, I thought retail on that throttle cable was $74, until I used your part #er. Must have looked at wrong part while doing a sloppy search earlier - your number is of course correct though.
I looked at plastic foot pedal and saw quite a few tiny rocks/media wedge in to grooves / sticking out, so I picked them all out, scrubbed up pedal to make it smooth (yup, even applied some silicone HA! - buffed it all out though) and this ‘user error’ approach again helped ‘some’ more too.

That puts my mind at ease about Throttle Body Cleaner, thanks - I think some well intentioned videos confused me. (I’ve got some stuff nobody should have anymore and thought of using it but I wont now).
Car is running maybe not as smooth as it could (but well) and although I need to do plugs etc. I can’t do anything yet that could put it out of commission (stripped spark plug etc.) longer than a day because it’s being used currently to transport a family member to med appointments. But spraying down a throttle & reassembling parts required for access is fairly safe (picked up a new ‘rubber’ intake for back up when existing ‘hard’ plastic one cracks during removal) (visuals at junk yard educated me).

Noticed that cable stickiness, off the line, was coming back.
Sprayed throttle drum springs again - no change.
Must be abrasion wear on inside of cable tube.
Pulled off rubber ferrule, unclipped cable from various supports, held up in air and sprayed short spurts of silicone into opening, allowing time for it to wick in before adding additional shots. In between I moved cable back & forth to help lubricant along. Could be grease inside cable tube because I put a paper towel under tube opening above pedal and nothing came out.
I also placed cable tube outside of radiator clip to decrease bend. A little grease inside rubber ferrule tip.

Test drive - It’s noticeably smoother off the line without initial ‘grab’. How long this lasts with engine heat on the cable and the tiny amount of silicone left behind after propellent dries remains to be seen.

Straw - https://imgur.com/a/MFnx6oA
Absorb - https://imgur.com/a/mErngTf
Bend - https://imgur.com/a/uqQh29Y