For example, I couldn't get the two transmission heat exchanger 19 mm brass fittings off no matter how long I tried ... so I resorted to disconnecting those two lines under the engine near the power steering pump pulley. Now I wonder if I have to bleed or replace the ATF fluid when I put it all back together?

Also, I couldn't easily get the lower 2-inch hose off the radiator, so, I removed the three bolts holding the other end of that bottom hose to the thermostat cover on the engine. But the thermostat wouldn't come out. How do you get the thermostat to come out without damaging it or wedging it in farther?

Also, I didn't realize wire hose clamps were FOUR pieces (the wire, the bolt, the plate, and a small diameter thick washer). So the first one I removed I lost that small washer.

Also does any particular care have to be paid to the 22 mm thermoswitch (or can I just leave it dangling there out of water in the air).

Basically, my main concern was "Was it a wise idea to remove the hoses from the radiator not at the radiator, but at the farthest point from the radiator?

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_debris_cought_on_fins.jpg (68165 bytes, downloaded 2380 times)

Does anyone fill the bypassed transmission heat exchanger with fluid before capping it off?

I may be wrong, but, it seems to me the advantages are two fold:
1. Since fluid is (presumably) a better heat-transfer agent than trapped air,
the radiator should (in my humble opinion) be more efficient with a fluid
trapped in the capped bypassed OEM heat exchanger than air.

2. Since oxidation occurs with moist air and since anti-oxidants are added
into ethylene glycol and ATF fluid ... I suspect future corrosion might
be lower with one of those fluids trapped in the capped bypassed OEM heat
exchanger.

If this is true, the question would become:
Q: Which fluid would work best in the bypassed capped OEM heat exchanger for these two purposes?

Attachment: nico_q45_chainguide_radiator_removed_for_space.jpg (271038 bytes, downloaded 2501 times)

Yes there is..... You might be able to get it on the top..

I feel the best location is either the top, passenger side corner or the drivers side, bottom corner... These are the 2 coolest places in the radaitaor, the former probably being more so. you can always slightly bend it to sort of wedge the cooler in there...... The cooler isnt thick (<1 in) so you wont be hurting anythign...

Thanks. It's helpful to know where exactly to place an external ATF cooler.

Seems to me, a fundamental advantage of doing it outselves is we may have the luxury of choosing various locations and then measuring actual results (assuming measurement tools are not too expensive and that the repeated R&R effort isn't too time consuming).

Do you think we can simply insert a "suitable" test gauge into the rubber hoses leading INTO the aftermarket transmission heat exchanger.

Given that DIY test assumption, does anyone have a recommended source or part number for a suitable ATF temperature gauge?

P.S. Others have tested ATF temperatures but don't provide guage sources (e.g., http://www.fourwheeler.com/pro....html (www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0406_red/index1.html).
Interestingly, some vehicles seem to come with ATF temperature gauges, e.g., http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/b_smoke13.htm (www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/b_smoke13.htm).

My trann cooler is in front of that hard line, I placed a rubber "bumper" above and below it (top and bottom of trans cooler) to "space" it away from the line.

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Great! There's nothing like the experience of a successfully working installation to build confidence in the meek (me).

[quote=elwesso]You could use an oil temperature guage.[quote]

OK. Since I'm boning up on the transmission work for later, I have time to look up oil-temperature gauges. I've never seen one, mind you ... but I should be able to find them on the Internet (I didn't find ATF gauges but I hope to have better luck with oil temp gauges).

Also, it might be obvious to you (but not to me) how to drain the complete transmission fluid. Of course, if I drop the transmission pan, something like half will come out ... but what is the step to get the oil out of the bell housing and heat exchanger?

Is the transmission filter easy to change? I presume it's just under the transmission pan.

In addition - I see a few off-hand comments about an external transmission filter. Is that something people seem to add?

Thanks for any advice ... basically I won't start that job until the current two major (for me) repairs are complete ... yet it won't hurt to learn ahead of time for these couple of questions.

Discover the power of the button!

I wouldn't try to remove anything from the radiator that's attached to it (e.g. brass fittings for cooler lines. Just remove the lines and unplug the sensors... Much safer than a potentially cracked or leaking radiator tank.

The t-stat is not attached in any way at this point (except for maybe corrosion). Just yank it with some large plyers or pry it out with a big screwdriver.

Heath

Pictures are great in that I don't have the innate experience you guys do so it helps me visualize the suggested tranny-cooloer installation location better.

In the photo below, I've drawn in where I think Jesda's aftermarket cooler is affixed to the radiator. I've also added two guesses as to where the bypassed OEM cooler might lie. If you know better, please correct me.

Open Issues:
1. Do we attempt to place the aftermarket transmission heat exchanger directly behind the otherwise dead original OEM in-radiator cooler?
That way, there's likely no (or much less) loss in radiator efficiency for engine coolant.

2. Why not fill the original bypassed OEM radiator with a fluid and then plug the two ends instead of leaving the dead OEM cooler open to the elements?

3. Wouldn't this provide better heat transfer for the radiator coolant than insulating air; and wouldn't chemicals in that fluid keep that heat exchanger metal from oxidizing due to inevitable contact with oxygen & water in the air?

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_tranny_cooler_location_jesda.jpg (40323 bytes, downloaded 2838 times)

Heath

Just curious ... does the "pipe" go across the whole radiator & back?
Or does it just loop quickly back as postulated in the photo below?

Quote, originally posted by DAEDALUS »

The stock "cooler" isn't much more than a metal tube that goes from one fitting to the other.

I'm amazed. Now it makes MUCH more sense why people replace the stock OEM "transmission cooler pipe" with a real heat exchange unit (with fins!).

I guess if all it is is a tube, then filling it with a fluid wouldn't make much difference ... and neither would it be a concern if we blocked the same area with the aftermarket transmission heat exchanger ...

Some day, I'd like to see the Q45 radiator taken apart to see what that "transmission cooler pipe" really looks like.

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_transmission_cooler_view.jpg (46409 bytes, downloaded 2429 times)

Oh dear. I've been struggling by what you meant by "tank". I was sure you were trying to tell me something ... but I just didn't know enough to understand the word "tank".

I think I now get it. Duuuuh. slaps forehead.
The tank you refer to is that black area of the radiator to the left of all the fins.

That would mean the reason I couldn't remove the "transmission cooler pipe" is because it just loops STRAIGHT DOWN from the input to the output (as shown in the photo below).

That would also be the reason why you can't possibly block the same area with the aftermarket unit. And, it would be even more reason to not bother filling it with fluid to assist in coolant heat exchange as there isn't any (much) heat exchange going on anyway because it's in an area that doesn't even have fins. Sheesh. I can see now why all it does is heat the transmission fluid to the temperature of the coolant. Sorry for being so thick.

P.S. I'm starting to get bruises from slapping my forehead with realization ... thanks solely to you guys ... I never learned so much about my car as in this oil pan & chain guide job!

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_tranny_cooler_closeup.jpg (28230 bytes, downloaded 1710 times)

Heath

The following are improvements over my ad hoc radiator removal process:
a) The surrounding fan shroud was apparently left attached to the radiator
-- (although I think the underside shroud collar was removed from its three clips)
b) The sealed thermoswitch & gasket apparently remained on the radiator
-- (I think all Jesda did was disconnect the two wires to that thermoswitch)
c) The transmission heat exchanger was disconnected at the radiator itself
-- (I couldn't get those quarter-inch hoses off the radiator without cutting)

By way of summary, I annotated Jesda's photo with the dozen removal steps:

#1 Empty the radiator of coolant by opening the passenger-side drain cock;
#2 Detach the quarter-inch radiator overflow hose from the top of the radiator;
#3 Pull out two wire fasteners from the drivers-side of the fan shroud (pliars);
#4 Unclip thermoswitch electrical wires (the thermoswitch may remain in place);
#5 Detach two CAS-wire-holder fasteners (using bent needlenose pliars);
#6 Remove one 10 mm bolt holding 2-inch pipe to engine (socket, 6 in extension);
#7 Remove the lower two-inch radiator hose from the thermostat housing;
#8 Disconnect the upper two-inch rubber radiator from the water pump outlet;
#9 Disconnect the upper transmission heat exchanger inlet quarter-inch hose;
#10 Disconnect the lower transmission heat exchanger outlet quarter-inch hose;
#11 Remove the three 2-inch-wide lower shroud-collar clips (needle-nose pliars);
#12 Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top of the radiator (box wrench).

Then lift the radiator out of the car (I had to remove it upward as I was on stands).

I hope this summarized photo helps others do the job better than I did.

Attachment: jesda_radiator_photo.jpg (62982 bytes, downloaded 1711 times)

Thanks for the diagram! Will be linking that at the site.

I was constantly re-syncronizing the yellow numbers with the numbered steps and trying to boil down both the steps and the numbers to only a dozen in the most logical proper sequence.

I tried to make your name on the arm look like a tattoo.

red

I already ordered Joe's Q45 transmission kit:
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
- 31390-51X02 Transmission pan with drain plug
- 31728-51X08 Transmission filter
- C1397-51X90 Transmission paper gasket
- 31526-41X07 Rubber O ring for the transmission filter
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---
And Joe's Q45 radiator kit (see photo below):
- 21501-60U10 Upper radiator hose
- 21503-60U10 Lower radiator hose
- 14055-60U70 Water pump hose
- 21200-60U02 Thermostat
--- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---

I'm still doing my homework.
Given the oil pan & chain guide job in progress, would you please review these planned steps below?

I don't see how I can fill the transmission without there being an air void?
I read in one of the posts that an air void will kill the "planetary" gear.

Here are my proposed steps (where are the failures in logic here)?
- Complete the chain-guide job & reinstall all parts except the radiator
- Rotate engine clockwise a few cycles with a 24" ratchet & 30 mm socket
- Hopefully no sounds will be heard of valves tap dancing on pistons
- Complete the oil pan job & replace all suspension components & belts
- Put all parts back except the radiator which should be reverse-flushed
- Attach the suggested aftermarket transmission cooler to the radiator
- Re-install radiator and transmission cooler hoses
- Hook up all hoses including new radiator hose kit with thermostat from Joe
- Drop the transmission pan & replace the filter, rubber 0 ring, & paper gasket
- Let ATF drain for as long as it can drain (can we get all 9 1/8 quarts out)?
- Note the car is on stands so that may affect how much ATF can drain out
- Bolt on the new transmission pan (the new one with a drain plug from Joe)
- At this point, there might be plenty of "air spaces" in the transmission circuit
- I remember seeing Dennis' warning about that
- But what can I do to eliminate the risk of the planetary gear being starved?
- Pour 9 1/8 quarts of Mobil 1 via a funnel into the transmission dipstick
- Replace the oil filter & pour 6 3/8 quarts of SAE 10W40 API SH motor oil
- Fill the cooling system with 5 1/2 quarts each of 50/50 Prestone II/H20
- Place the transmission in PARK(?) & run at 1500 RPM for exactly 2 MINUTES
- Initial chain-guide tensioner air release sounds may be heard (ignore?)
- Shut engine at the 2-minute mark & drain transmission fluid (save fluid)
- Repeat 2-minute drain/fill until 14 quarts of ATF have been drained

I've never done this before; so I'm doing my homework:
How do we prevent the transmission from being starved of ATF in this process?

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_hose_kit.jpg (88535 bytes, downloaded 1746 times)

Im not sure youll be able to get 9qts out.. I was only able to get out about 6 quarts.....

I thought it was run at idle...

Other than that, it looks great.....

Wes, where did you get the 2-minute run time? I understand the goal, but it depends on several things, e.g. fluid volume in the pan, pump flow rate, mixing.

Try 6 quarts of oil to start. Let the dipstick tell you if you need to add more than that. Same for the tranny--use the dipstick to ensure the right amount of fluid is in the system. Don't forget tranny fluid is checked with the engine idling, unlike motor oil.

Unless you remove the block drain plugs, you'll not get all the coolant out. I.e., probably impossible to get 11 quarts in the engine.

I cant find the post... I know dennis said that, maybe Qship can help me find it..... I know he did this procedure because dennis recommended it.....

I always hated to hear even the very minor "tick tick tick" for the first few seconds after changing the oil - so I use this routine after an oil change, or anytime the car has been sitting for an extended period.

Heath

Infiniti Online Mechanic » Transmission Fluid Change - Would this work?
http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=76109
q45tech: If you have to - just drain the pan - refill, then run the engine 2.0
minutes [stopwatch please] and pan drain again- refill,
repeat for 4 times.

I picked up a new thermostat but didn't think about the cover. Thanks.

uh ... er ... um ... what's an "anode pipe" (where is it)?

The pipe maybe... The pipe referred is talking about the metal tube going from the Tstat housing to the lower radiator hose..... Look inside and if you see excessive "barnacles", then thats what you need to replace.....

FSM for the 90 Q45 says 5 7/8 quarts (with filter) of API service SG.
An accompanying chart allows for SAE viscosities of 5W30, 10W30, & 10W40.

More specifically, on MA-10, they write (verbatim):
"10W30 is preferable if the ambient temperature is above -18 degrees C (0 degrees F). 20W-40 and 20W-50 are usable if the ambient temperature is above 10 degrees C (50 degrees F) for all seasons."

It seems to me that a 15 year old Q might be "worn" a bit so that's why I figured on the 40 second number (the first number, 10W or 20W, only lasts about 5 minutes in my opinion as once the engine heats up, the oil doesn't know that it's winter outside anymore so the only number that really matters after the engine heats up is the second number in my opinion). I could be wrong, but, that's why I go with 40 weight oil. In New York things were different (those first five minutes were killers); but in California, in the low lands anyway, it never gets cold like NY so 5W isn't really called for in my opinion.

In reality, I'd bet we could get away with a single-weight oil (less carbonization from additives) in CA valleys (as long as we don't go skiing).

Oh. OK. Thanks. I wonder why they call it an "anode" pipe (typically there's a sacrificial anode in heaters and chemical reactors).

You must mean this pipe (see photo).

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_sacrificial_anode_pipe.jpg (85911 bytes, downloaded 1414 times)

At that price, I'll just scrape this pipe (see photo) off with a file before hooking al the new rubber hoses on.

Attachment: nico_q45_radiator_scrape_water_pump_pipe_corrosion.jpg (88932 bytes, downloaded 1379 times)

Excellent idea (especially since the Q has been sitting for months):
- Replace the battery with a fresh battery (or trickle charge overnight)
- Remove injector & fuel pump fuses (at your left knee of the driver c0ckpit)
- Twist ignition key to "start" to turn the engine over (for about 5 or 10 seconds)
- That should help get oil up in the engine without higher RPMs

CLR?