Fred and others,This just recently dawned on me... The other day, when i fired up my car from cold the oil light only stayed on for a couple seconds (normally around 6)... However, when I started it from heat soak (1 hour of sitting hot, in 50* weather), and the oil light stayed on slightly longer.
This seems to me that it doesnt build pressure fast enough when the oil is hot...
Question: Should I switch to a thicker oil for summer time? Im running a 5w30 (durablend), would a 10w40 be better for summer??
Oil Question to Fred about my engine
Re: Oil Question to Fred about my engine
elwesso wrote:Question: Should I switch to a thicker oil for summer time? would a 10w40 be better for summer??
Yes and Yes.
Fred...
elwesso wrote:1)Would you say Id be safe switching it now....2)I am starting to notice A TAD bit of tapping (valves) when sitting overnight or longer. 3)Would 10w40 make this worse??? 4)I wanna keep using my durablend (cheap and good)
1) Do you have consistent spring like temps in Indy by now? If yes the time is right... But..2)Keep up your short OCI's and alternate Seafom with MMO with ATF addtions just previous to drain.You can leave the Seafoam or MMO in for a few days of driving ( not to exceed a work week) just prior to oil change, 3) Not if its warm enough. <But> If you have issues like that I would stick with a Durablend 10w-30, its higher flow at operating temps vs a 10w-40 will help a bit with the cleanout.4) Go ahead and keep up those frequent oil changes.
Fred...
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elwesso
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MMO and Seafoam... 1 can of each, 1/2 of each, one of either, or what.. I dont remember hearing about that.....
I would presume I would throw in the seafoam maybe 3 days prior to a oil change, drive easy, and then just a bit before I go to have it drained, i would add ATF.....
I think this 5w30 is a bit thin for what I want.....
its been about 1500 miles since I did my oil flush, so Ill go ahead and give the ATF/seafoam trick a try... Probably change it in a week or so.. Maybe I'll DIY this one and rip open the filter......
I would presume I would throw in the seafoam maybe 3 days prior to a oil change, drive easy, and then just a bit before I go to have it drained, i would add ATF.....
I think this 5w30 is a bit thin for what I want.....
its been about 1500 miles since I did my oil flush, so Ill go ahead and give the ATF/seafoam trick a try... Probably change it in a week or so.. Maybe I'll DIY this one and rip open the filter......
elwesso wrote:1)MMO and Seafoam... 1 can of each, 1/2 of each, one of either, or what.. I dont remember hearing about that.....2)I would presume I would throw in the seafoam maybe 3 days prior to a oil change, drive easy, and then just a bit before I go to have it drained, i would add ATF.....3)I think this 5w30 is a bit thin for what I want.....4)its been about 1500 miles since I did my oil flush, so Ill go ahead and give the ATF/seafoam trick a try.
1)! can each 1st application, one can next time2)Yes3)10w-304) Do it soon keep up those short OCI's
Fred..
So in summary I w/d my original 10w-40 recommendation I forgot your engine was still dirty.
The 10w-30 will be the better choice in your case as the slightly faster flow will help to clean and less VII's in a 10w-30 vs a 10w-40 leave more room for otehr additves in the oil ( sucha s detergents)
Fred..
The 10w-30 will be the better choice in your case as the slightly faster flow will help to clean and less VII's in a 10w-30 vs a 10w-40 leave more room for otehr additves in the oil ( sucha s detergents)
Fred..
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elwesso
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Ok so the 10w30 is what I should go with for summer time?
I would think that the 40 weight would be better for warmer temps, since i get a slightly longer oil light time when the oil is warm.
Wouldnt a thicker oil help clean things out since its under higher pressure. As you can imagine, I drive my car VERY hard at ALL times. I would think with the increased pressure that it would help aleviate some of the junk in there.....
I would think that the 40 weight would be better for warmer temps, since i get a slightly longer oil light time when the oil is warm.
Wouldnt a thicker oil help clean things out since its under higher pressure. As you can imagine, I drive my car VERY hard at ALL times. I would think with the increased pressure that it would help aleviate some of the junk in there.....
elwesso wrote:Alright so its something that shouldnt stay in for a long time...
The ATF should stay in for an hours worth of idling even though light driving around teh block is ok.
The Seafoam is totally safe but you will take its utility away if you put it in too long before teh drain as varnish will start re-depositing.
Fred..
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elwesso
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http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=29
I was looking at this stuff, and looking at the MSDS it looks like its safe. Maybe I could use this stuff for like 3 weekly oil changes??? Too harsh???
I was looking at this stuff, and looking at the MSDS it looks like its safe. Maybe I could use this stuff for like 3 weekly oil changes??? Too harsh???
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Touchdown038
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Every single one of those 5 minute flushes are kerosene based.You'd do as well putting an equal volume of kerosene or diesel in your oil.
They are safe if used w/in directions and they all say on fine print that in engiens suspected of ebing heavily sludged the oil pan may have to come off and get cleaned.
A $400 proposition on a Q using shop labor.
In some cases the oil pan may have to come off few couple days for a while.
Expensive, ..its a lot cheaper to just change your oil often.
Fred...
They are safe if used w/in directions and they all say on fine print that in engiens suspected of ebing heavily sludged the oil pan may have to come off and get cleaned.
A $400 proposition on a Q using shop labor.
In some cases the oil pan may have to come off few couple days for a while.
Expensive, ..its a lot cheaper to just change your oil often.
Fred...
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kblast523
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Pyroil will clean up an engine that has run on dino oil all its life and has LIGHT "sludge" or minor deposits. Last year I acquired a 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 3.8l v-6 with "only" 64K on it. I do honestly believe it had at LEAST 50K on the Pennzoil that was run in it. The stuff was cacked up so bad, I could scrape the deposits with a blade and pic up more than I could gather in one hand....with latex gloves on of course. I filled two one gallon containers with scrapings from this motor. Ended up using a different engine because of the cylinder wear....bores were out by .090, well beyond boring range. Just another reason for using synthetics...AND CHANGING OIL. If you can see the crud in the engine, this stuff will plug the sump with it and ruin what is left...keep changing. You will never get it all, but you may get most of it.