Ok guys, I'm going to do some reading/research, but I also want to hear some "actual" information and not just a "theoretical" view that a manual may/may not give.

I've heard that these engines don't like to be babied (low RPM's, etc.), but I've also heard that you should keep the RPM's low and avoid hard acceleration during the break-in period. I put 10k on my old one before the oil consumption caused me to need a new one and I'm currently in the waiting period for the engine to come in and be replaced.

My question is... What is supposed to be the best way to break this engine in? (the V8, if that makes a difference, which I doubt...)

Also, what are your long term thoughts/experiences with the catch can?

Just baby the engine during the break in period. As stated in the owners manual do not go over 4000rpm or any WOT. Change the oil early at around 500 miles to get rid of metal shavings that's in the oil. Use a good conventional/dino oil such as Castrol GTX, Pennzoil conventional, Mobil clean 5000, and ect.

So far I put 700 miles on my new engine and I am about to change the oil and send a used sample of the oil to the lab for analysis. I will post the results when I get it back.

A catch can isn't a bad idea to prevent oil being sucked into the intake system. I will have one installed sometime in the future.

tigerclaws1318 wrote:Just baby the engine during the break in period. As stated in the owners manual do not go over 4000rpm or any WOT. Change the oil early at around 500 miles to get rid of metal shavings that's in the oil. Use a good conventional/dino oil such as Castrol GTX, Pennzoil conventional, Mobil clean 5000, and ect.

So far I put 700 miles on my new engine and I am about to change the oil and send a used sample of the oil to the lab for analysis. I will post the results when I get it back.

A catch can isn't a bad idea to prevent oil being sucked into the intake system. I will have one installed sometime in the future.

Lab? What are you looking for them to find?

On your failed engines, was your oil consumption bad from day 1 or did it get progessivly worse as you racked up the miles? How many miles did you have on the old engine before replacement?

I would change the oil and filter every 1K miles for the first 3 or 4 K miles and monitor oil use(the first change at 500 miles sounds like a good idea). As far as break-in driving - take it easy and operate the engine at varied rpm ranges(mix a lot of city and hwy).

thomasm35 wrote:On your failed engines, was your oil consumption bad from day 1 or did it get progessivly worse as you racked up the miles? How many miles did you have on the old engine before replacement?

I would change the oil and filter every 1K miles for the first 3 or 4 K miles and monitor oil use(the first change at 500 miles sounds like a good idea). As far as break-in driving - take it easy and operate the engine at varied rpm ranges(mix a lot of city and hwy).

I've only had the car for 4 months (about 10,000 miles). I never noticed a problem and didn't know that there even was one with these engines until I started reading this forum, so I don't know if the problem was there and got worse or if it was a thing that just popped up instantly for my particular case. I had only seen the blue smoke issue once (and I checked a good bit of times after reading in the forum).

It just so happened that one day when I went to go to work, I got smoke and clacking, so I just had it towed and that's what got diagnosed. Here's my original thread zer...-hood.

I'm very excited about getting it (now that I know warranty has it covered).

All I want for Christmas is my M45!

WONDERFUL NEWS!

I just got the call back today to let me know that my car is ready. I couldn't get there in time today to get it. (They called me at 5, close at 6. It takes me an hour or so to get there on a GOOD day, let alone with rain, sleet, and ice coming down...)

I'll have my baby back tomorrow! I can't wait till I get past 10,000 miles! LOL

Oh yeah, and for the record...2 weeks in a G37 has taught me this much... Those things are little monsters and are to be respected. It still blows the doors off 90% of the cars I pass on the road.

jazzy m45 wrote:
Lab? What are you looking for them to find?

I agree that you should change the oil several times in the first 5k miles. There was a post over on the Q side several yrs ago concerning engine wear. I'm paraphrasing but something like 50% of all wear takes place in the first 5-7k miles. With frequent changes in the very early beginning your are removing the metal that results from the break-in. the reported stated this was crucial for long term engine life.

here is a copy of the blackstone lab report on my 02F50

mcrews wrote:I agree that you should change the oil several times in the first 5k miles. There was a post over on the Q side several yrs ago concerning engine wear. I'm paraphrasing but something like 50% of all wear takes place in the first 5-7k miles. With frequent changes in the very early beginning your are removing the metal that results from the break-in. the reported stated this was crucial for long term engine life.

Totally, totally agreed!!

I strongly recommend multiple early oil and filter changes on new cars. Once between 250 to 500 miles (perhaps even as low as 100 miles), once at 1750 and once at 3750 miles. The rings are seating in, burrs are being removed, etc., and it is best to take all this out the engine so that the deburred stuff does not score places it shouldn't!

I posted on this many years ago in the Q forum at NICO ... the book I mentioned in this other thread is excellent reading:

zerothread/40993

Z

z,

Totally, totally agreed!!

first time I ever had a moderator Totally, totally agree with me!!! lol

Thanks guys. I got her back yesterday and I've put about 150 miles on it. I was planning on getting an oil change at 500 miles, but I may get it done earlier.

The engine makes the car sound better (a little deeper/"throatier") and power definitely feels more smooth and more evenly dispersed. I've been easy on it (below 3500 rpm) and I've been making sure I don't go the same speed. I've actually been frequently changing speed on purpose throughout my drives. Is it okay to frequently go from 80 to 60 to 70 over and over while on the interstate? I feel like I accelerate, then no gas, then accelerate again. It's not a big deal, just want to make sure I'm not taking the wrong approach.

I just looked at what the manual had in it for a break-in schedule (I know, I was supposed to look a long week ago), but it says that the break in period is only 1200 miles! Is that really all?

I don't know where I got 10,000 miles from (I had to have heard it somewhere), but is it really only 1200 miles that I should "baby" it? I know that sounds like a silly question after I just read the manual that THEY wrote, but I just want to ask because there's a big difference their number and what I thought.

Ok,

jazzy m45 wrote:I just looked at what the manual had in it for a break-in schedule (I know, I was supposed to look a long week ago), but it says that the break in period is only 1200 miles! Is that really all?

I don't know where I got 10,000 miles from (I had to have heard it somewhere), but is it really only 1200 miles that I should "baby" it? I know that sounds like a silly question after I just read the manual that THEY wrote, but I just want to ask because there's a big difference their number and what I thought.

I found a blackstone report on Bobthe oilguys forum fo a new Acura.He had changed the oil 3 times. Look at the numbers and the comments on the report

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...76834

I think the 10k was just something you 'heard'. I don't think there is any factual foundation for it.

mcrews wrote:Ok,

I found a blackstone report on Bobthe oilguys forum fo a new Acura.He had changed the oil 3 times. Look at the numbers and the comments on the report

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...76834

I think the 10k was just something you 'heard'. I don't think there is any factual foundation for it.

Thanks for the info and the reference. After I read the manual and saw that, I realized how ridiculous 10k sounded. I don't know where I got that from, I know I probably come across like an idiot (I'm not ), but thanks for your help.

I'm at about 400 miles now and planning on getting the oil changed this weekend for the first time. Considering doing a blackstone report...

By the way... the official diagnosis of my issue...

PULLED OFF VALVE COVER AND FOUND METAL IN CYLINDER HEAD AND DAMAGE TO CAMSHAFT - KNOCK ON BOTTOM END DUE TO WORN ROD BEARING - FOUND LOW COMPRESSION AT CYLINDER 4 CAUSING OIL TO BE BURNED MAKING SMOKE COME OUT OF EXHAUST - REPLACED LONG BLOCK ASSEMBLY

PARTSENGINE ASSY - BARE - 10102 - EH0A0GASKET - MANIFOLD - 14035 - EH000GASKET - MANIFOLD TO C - 14035 - AR201GASKET - EXHAUST MANIF - 14036 - AR000GASKET - EXHAUST - 20691 - 0P600GASKET - CATALYST - 20692 - 65J00WASHER OUTLET - 11062 - AR001GSKT - WATER INLT - 13050 - AR001SEAL - O RING - 21049 - 6N200GASKT - WATR PUMP - 21014 - AR001LONG LIFE ANTIFREEZE - 999MP - AF000PFILTER OIL - 15208 - 9E000KENDALL 5W30 - 5W30BMATIC S AUTO TRANSMI - 999 MP - MTS00P

As you can see, they refilled my tranny with Matic "S" fluid (for those with the question about fluid types. I know it's been answered before, but it's more confirmation).

Have any of you heard of "Kendall" oil? I haven't and just want to know if they're using cheap oil or not. Thanks!

98...99...1200!! Okay, okay, after all my Christmas traveling and shopping, it's more like 1450 miles on the new engine.

Engine is broken in now, and still feels nice and strong. I had the oil changed last Wednesday at about 650. I'm going to get it changed again soon. I've noticed that at times, my tranny isn't sure what gear it needs to be in, but it's very VERY intermittent (it probably has only happened 6-8 times the whole time I've had the new one).

I've had a few acceleration runs (still no WOT), and I haven't had any blinking CEL, so I'm happy about that. My focus on the runs was to smoothly keep it in the gear and ride it until about 5000k (I normally do it in 2nd...first never wants to hold that long...I guess it's waiting on WOT). Anyway, no problems as of yet. No blue smoke (as expected since the oil just got changed), but I'll try to keep you guys posted. I didn't do a Blackstone report.

As a side note... My wife and I both entertained the possibility of selling the newly-engined M (without the other knowing) and we both came to the same decision... (I'd just get a newer one anyway!)

Read through your thread here and i recently had to have a warranty long block myself. If i had know about the engine problems of these cars i would have never bought one. But other than that i couldnt be happier with it, and to answer your question about the oil. Its lower grade oil that can be purchased at most major auto retailers. Autozone sells it at 2.99 a quart.

Funny you mention the selling idea Jazzy LOL. I thought of the same thing, but not seriously though, because we could sell our 2006 M from probably 5-6K more than we bought it for because of the new engine. But you right, If i sold mine and got something else I would probably be hatin life trying to compare it to the M.

dvan wrote:Funny you mention the selling idea Jazzy LOL. I thought of the same thing, but not seriously though, because we could sell our 2006 M from probably 5-6K more than we bought it for because of the new engine. But you right, If i sold mine and got something else I would probably be hatin life trying to compare it to the M.

You are kidding, right? No way a newer car is worth $5-6,000 MORE because it has a replacement engine, I would even go as far as saying it is worth LESS as it will scare many many potential buyers away.

qship96 wrote:
You are kidding, right? No way a newer car is worth $5-6,000 MORE because it has a replacement engine, I would even go as far as saying it is worth LESS as it will scare many many potential buyers away.

Honestly, it depends on who you are and how it's marketed. I don't think buyers would have a problem buying a used car with a brand new engine over the same car with 50k miles. That would definitely be a positive feature.

If you were buying an M tomorrow, you'd rather buy one with the original engine over one with an engine that had just been replaced? I think buyers would rather take their chances with the newer engine knowing that they wouldn't have to worry about what a previous owner did to it. That comfort in itself could definitely demand more for a $10,000+ engine replacement.

I find it hard to believe that you wouldn't choose the same... I could understand if you meant another model over the M, but if you know you're buying an M, why wouldn't you get the new engine???

qship96 wrote:
You are kidding, right? No way a newer car is worth $5-6,000 MORE because it has a replacement engine, I would even go as far as saying it is worth LESS as it will scare many many potential buyers away.

Maybe 5-6K is a little much, but there is no doubt you can get a few thousand more selling it private sale vice trade-in. Why would someone pay 17K for a 2006 M with 102K on the odometer when they could get a 2006 M with 102K on the odometer but 32K engine miles?

I don't get you're logic about it scaring them away..its a NEW ENGINE lol. I guess all new engine make people scared? =) Lets see, take one car with the original engine or the same car with a new one...hard choice!!

jazzy m45 wrote:
Honestly, it depends on who you are and how it's marketed. I don't think buyers would have a problem buying a used car with a brand new engine over the same car with 50k miles. That would definitely be a positive feature.

If you were buying an M tomorrow, you'd rather buy one with the original engine over one with an engine that had just been replaced? I think buyers would rather take their chances with the newer engine knowing that they wouldn't have to worry about what a previous owner did to it. That comfort in itself could definitely demand more for a $10,000+ engine replacement.

I find it hard to believe that you wouldn't choose the same... I could understand if you meant another model over the M, but if you know you're buying an M, why wouldn't you get the new engine???

2 m45 sitting on dealer lot, both clean and present well, both have full service records available, both have 30-40,000 miles on them,both priced the same......I would choose the one with the original engine still in it any day over one with a replacement motor....

I agreee qship. If I had to choose between to cars in the same physical condition, one with original engine and one with new engine. I would pass up the one with the new engine. I would view it negatively, much like a title defect. I would question, what else is going to go wrong with this car and think that the original owner did not treat it right mechanically.

As far as those buyers that you do get to explain the engine swap too, if they research and find a post like this, they will run from the M45. Thats what I would have done if knew of this problem. Unless some sort warranty or a final fix for this major mechanical flaw, most buyers will go to the next make and model. Lexus had a major mechanical flaw wtih thier V6s in the late 90's, all those cars are covered with a 10yr/UNLIMITED mileage powertrain warranty, Infiniti should also stand behind their mistake and offer the same so we can sell our cars with a clear mind.

An all original car is always worth more than a rebuilt car. The only exception is if a car had like 180kmi and the owner replaced the engine, then I would percieve it as better cluncker to drive around.

with a new engine you still have a year for nissan to replace it!!!

I'd probably take the new engine, less chance for negligent owners to not change the oil... Then again, if I got an M and had to replace the engine out of warranty, I probably wouldnt even put in a VK45...

qship96 wrote:
2 m45 sitting on dealer lot, both clean and present well, both have full service records available, both have 30-40,000 miles on them,both priced the same......I would choose the one with the original engine still in it any day over one with a replacement motor....

exactly!! this is a no brainer! why would I pay more for a car with LOW MILEAGE that has a new engine?!? that would be throwing red flags everywhere! why does a new car with low mileage have a new engine in it already?? I would ask, "what is the problem" not "wow this low mileage car has a new engine, let me pay $6k more"...no way!

NightRiderQ45 wrote:exactly!! this is a no brainer! why would I pay more for a car with LOW MILEAGE that has a new engine?!? that would be throwing red flags everywhere! why does a new car with low mileage have a new engine in it already?? I would ask, "what is the problem" not "wow this low mileage car has a new engine, let me pay $6k more"...no way!

ehm....by the time I sell my car it wont have low milage lol...its not low milage now. The engine was replaced at 69K miles. What are the chances a few years from now you will find a 2006 M on a lot that has the FULL service history (engine anyway)? Probably very slim considering it probably changed hands 2 or 3 times at least. so lets run the scenerio again shall we?

2 m45 sitting on dealer lot, both clean and present well,one (3 owners) has service records for the last two years, the other (3 owners) has the last 2 years PLUS ALL record of maintence since a new engine installed at 69K, both have 120K miles on them,both priced the same......?

elwesso wrote:I probably wouldnt even put in a VK45...

VK56DE would be my choice and uprev the crap out of it with a stillen supercharger! Unless I didn't care about anything working inside the car - LS7 and 6L80E

I know you'd want the VH and I know why

dvan wrote:Funny you mention the selling idea Jazzy LOL. I thought of the same thing, but not seriously though, because we could sell our 2006 M from probably 5-6K more than we bought it for because of the new engine. But you right, If i sold mine and got something else I would probably be hatin life trying to compare it to the M.

This was the original quote that started it all.....and quite frankly, it is laughable to actually believe it.

dvan wrote:
ehm....by the time I sell my car it wont have low milage lol...its not low milage now. The engine was replaced at 69K miles. What are the chances a few years from now you will find a 2006 M on a lot that has the FULL service history (engine anyway)? Probably very slim considering it probably changed hands 2 or 3 times at least. so lets run the scenerio again shall we?

2 m45 sitting on dealer lot, both clean and present well,one (3 owners) has service records for the last two years, the other (3 owners) has the last 2 years PLUS ALL record of maintence since a new engine installed at 69K, both have 120K miles on them,both priced the same......?

Easy......no need to purchase any of the 2 in your above scenerio.....these are not limited production rare vehicles, and I would keep looking til I found the right 1 owner fully documented example or just purchase a different model vehicle- sorry, I just do not see a replacement motor as an advantage EVER in a mass produced vehilce when other choices are available in the marketplace.

ken in az wrote:
VK56DE would be my choice and uprev the crap out of it with a stillen supercharger! Unless I didn't care about anything working inside the car - LS7 and 6L80E

I know you'd want the VH and I know why