Horrible noise/smell on starting car this morning

[rsg123]

I started my car yesterday and turned it off after 5 seconds (testing out my radar detector install) and everything was fine.This morning, when it started it made a very loud noise that got louder as the engine revved. I immediately turned it off and tried again with the same result. It smelled like burning plastic throughout the garage.I did not have time to check any fluid levels and just took my old car to work. I am leaning towards low oil as the problem since I heard some similar engine noise problems in this forum, but those were all during driving.Any suggestions on what to check?

[M45Runner]

I am not sure about the plastic burning smell. But, yes, the noise you described sounds exactly like low engine oil. This exactly thing (minus the burning smell) happened to me one morning and I left it and took another car of mine to work. Topped 1.5 qts of oil in the evening and drive it for about a mile and the noise disappeared.

How many miles you have since last time you changed the oil? The reason why I am asking is: I found out this tend to happen (low oil) 3k miles after an oil change (next oil change due). Last time it did this, I was ready to do an oil change the weekend after with 3400 miles.

[tigerclaws1318]

The car is probably very low in oil. The smell is burned oil from the exhaust which does smell pretty bad. Let the car sit overnight and check the oil in the morning. Top off the oil till its on the full mark.

[rsg123]

I am not sure about the plastic burning smell. But, yes, the noise you described sounds exactly like low engine oil. This exactly thing (minus the burning smell) happened to me one morning and I left it and took another car of mine to work. Topped 1.5 qts of oil in the evening and drive it for about a mile and the noise disappeared.

How many miles you have since last time you changed the oil? The reason why I am asking is: I found out this tend to happen (low oil) 3k miles after an oil change (next oil change due). Last time it did this, I was ready to do an oil change the weekend after with 3400 miles.

It has only been 2000 miles since my last oil change. I get the oil changed every 3000 miles. Maybe they screwed up the last oil change and under-filled or maybe my car is developing the dreaded oil consumption problem. I guess I need to start checking the level more often.

[rsg123]

Just bought a quart of oil over my lunch break. Now I am wondering if that will be enough...

[M45Runner]

Just bought a quart of oil over my lunch break. Now I am wondering if that will be enough...

Most probably not, as if you are only 1 quart low, you would not get that kind of noise from the engine. I would get 2 just in case. But, with 1 quart, it should be able to bring it up enough to quiet down the engine - keep in mind, you have to drive it for a mile or so to get it quiet down, unless you want to idle it for 5-10 min.

[rsg123]

Most probably not, as if you are only 1 quart low, you would not get that kind of noise from the engine. I would get 2 just in case. But, with 1 quart, it should be able to bring it up enough to quiet down the engine - keep in mind, you have to drive it for a mile or so to get it quiet down, unless you want to idle it for 5-10 min.

The dipstick will most likely indicate that the oil is low. After I add a quart, do I have to drive it for a few minutes before I check the dipstick again?

[M45Runner]

As far as checking the dipstick, no you can check immediately. But, in order for the oil to be pumped up to lubricate the upper engine, you need to drive it for a mile or two, so the noise will go away - just to ensure it cures the problem. But, you can check the oil level 15 sec. after you added the oil.

[M4T5]

Incorrect. There is no need to have to drive a vehicle to get the oil to reach the upper part of an engine. Once an engine starts, the oil pump will have the oil throughout the entire engine in a matter of a few seconds. All I can say is, low oil + loud noise = internal engine damage!

J

[szh]

The dipstick will most likely indicate that the oil is low. After I add a quart, do I have to drive it for a few minutes before I check the dipstick again?

No. Oil levels should always be measured cold. I do mine first thing in the morning before driving the car. Typically, I add about 1/4 to 1/3 qt (rarely 1/2 quart) about 1750 miles after changing the oil to bring it back above the "mid-point" between low and high marks on the dipstick.

If your level was below (or well below) the low mark on the dipstick, then you probably need to add at least a quart, maybe two, of oil, wait 5 to 10 minutes and measure again. Don't start the engine in between the measurements.

Regular oil and tire pressure checks are essential for our cars and tires.

Z

[ken in az]

No. Oil levels should always be measured cold. I do mine first thing in the morning before driving the car. Typically, I add about 1/4 to 1/3 qt (rarely 1/2 quart) about 1750 miles after changing the oil to bring it back above the "mid-point" between low and high marks on the dipstick.

If your level was below (or well below) the low mark on the dipstick, then you probably need to add at least a quart, maybe two, of oil, wait 5 to 10 minutes and measure again. Don't start the engine in between the measurements.

Regular oil and tire pressure checks are essential for our cars and tires.

Z

Actually the FSM states the oil should be checked 15min after shutdown from normal engine operating temperature...or maybe it was the owners manual that said that.

[tigerclaws1318]

I think 15 minutes is a short period of time as oil can still be dripping into the pan. It's best to wait at least 30 minutes to a hour before checking for a accurate reading on a even level ground surface. For me I like to check the oil after the cars been sitting overnight.

[ken in az]

I think 15 minutes is a short period of time as oil can still be dripping into the pan. It's best to wait at least 30 minutes to a hour before checking for a accurate reading on a even level ground surface. For me I like to check the oil after the cars been sitting overnight.

thats what i thought too but hot oil expands meaning it would show higher up on the dipstick. thats how techs are supposed to check the trans fluid - based on temperature. so iguess the engineers "engineered it" that way to be checked at temperature.

obviously i dont make the rules - nissan does

[szh]

thats what i thought too but hot oil expands meaning it would show higher up on the dipstick. thats how techs are supposed to check the trans fluid - based on temperature. so iguess the engineers "engineered it" that way to be checked at temperature.

obviously i dont make the rules - nissan does

Yes, but oil and transmission fluid measurements are different. Either ATF apparently expands more when heated, I guess, plus it may also have to do with the way the measurements are to be taken - with it actually flowing in the transmission, rather than just "sitting" there. In theory, the engineers could have done the same with the engine oil too, but they chose not to ...

With oil, most of it flows back into the pan when the engine is not on. This is not the case with transmission fluid - there, most of the fluid is still inside the tubing and stuff when it is not flowing.

Most importantly, look at how the paragraph in the FSM starts out: "Before starting engine ...". The rest of the paragraph has to do with waiting for a duration to let as much of the oil drain back into the pan, if your engine was already on, before taking the measurement.

So, for engine oil, it is best to measure cold.

Z

[szh]

It's best to wait at least 30 minutes to a hour before checking for a accurate reading on a even level ground surface. For me I like to check the oil after the cars been sitting overnight.

Agreed. Level ground (consistent from measurement to measurement is best too) and sitting overnight.

Z

[ken in az]

Yes, but oil and transmission fluid measurements are different. Either ATF apparently expands more when heated, I guess, plus it may also have to do with the way the measurements are to be taken - with it actually flowing in the transmission, rather than just "sitting" there. In theory, the engineers could have done the same with the engine oil too, but they chose not to ...

With oil, most of it flows back into the pan when the engine is not on. This is not the case with transmission fluid - there, most of the fluid is still inside the tubing and stuff when it is not flowing.

Most importantly, look at how the paragraph in the FSM starts out: "Before starting engine ...". The rest of the paragraph has to do with waiting for a duration to let as much of the oil drain back into the pan, if your engine was already on, before taking the measurement.

So, for engine oil, it is best to measure cold.

Z

Ahhh...missed that first part. oh well, i guess you can't go wrong either way. Also, ATF has twice as much fluid that flows through many different and small passageways so temperature would have more an effect on the ATF system than engine oil.

[rsg123]

I just don't understand how it could start without a problem at 6pm Sunday and then have such problems at 6am Monday without any apparent puddles of oil.I am buying a few more quarts today and will top it off. Based on the replies here, I will check the oil level, add a quart, wait 30 min and then check the level again.Is there any way to check to see if any engine damage occurred?

[ken in az]

I just don't understand how it could start without a problem at 6pm Sunday and then have such problems at 6am Monday without any apparent puddles of oil.I am buying a few more quarts today and will top it off. Based on the replies here, I will check the oil level, add a quart, wait 30 min and then check the level again.Is there any way to check to see if any engine damage occurred?

I didn't realize that you just did an install for a radar detector. Not that is has anything to do with the noise but I bet the smell is coming from burnt wires somewhere.

I recomend to do a full check of your wireing and also check under the battery cover for any obviopus signs of melting. Use your nose not your eyes as it will point yo towards the burnt plastic smell.

As far as your engine is concerned - the loud noise, was it a clanking noise, ticking, slapping, whirring, noise?? can you define the noise any better?

If everything was fine before the install, then after the install it is making the noise - one is inclined to think whatever you did is the culprit. It could be something as silly as the voltage regulator burned out on your alternator, or your ac compressor is pissed.

Definitely check the oil - that is the easiest to do at this point. I think that you'll find it full and that will make it tough for you. For your sake I hope it has plenty of oil just because engine damage and oil consumption is never a fun thing to deal with. Hopefully it's just a crossed wire somewhere and it's an easy fix.

Good Luck and post up what you find out.

[rsg123]

Just checked the oil level and it's perfectly fine! all the other levels are fine as well, except the coolant which is just above the minimum line. It was cold outside that morning (lower 30s) but inside the garage it was probably in the upper 50s. I disconnected the radar detector (wiring looked ok) and i don't smell anything anymore. The battery looks fine and interior lights and stereo are working. I don't want to start it again until I have gone through all the possibilities. Any suggestions?

[xerexabante]

There was a thread about shutting your car before it gets to normal temp. having this issue. You are not the first one, this was a long time ago. We all just never run the motor and shut off befroe normal temp. resulting this. I believe it has something with the fuel sitting in the intake.

Good luck I hope this helps you.

[rsg123]

So I am thinking now that there is a belt broken/worn. There is lots of vibration and the burning plastic smell might be burning rubber.I recorded a video so you guys can tell me what you think.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VnoAC9F538Fast forward to 1:00.I believe if it is a belt problem that it will be covered under the powertrain warranty, but towing it 35 miles will be expensive (a Nissan dealership is closeby, but they probably won't do Infiniti warranty work, right?).

If you think you know what might be wrong, can you give me a ballpark estimate on the cost to repair?
Modified by rsg123 at 8:09 PM 11/17/2009

[ken in az]

So I am thinking now that there is a belt broken/worn. There is lots of vibration and the burning plastic smell might be burning rubber.I recorded a video so you guys can tell me what you think.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VnoAC9F538Fast forward to 1:00.I believe if it is a belt problem that it will be covered under the powertrain warranty, but towing it 35 miles will be expensive (a Nissan dealership is closeby, but they probably won't do Infiniti warranty work, right?).

If you think you know what might be wrong, can you give me a ballpark estimate on the cost to repair?

Modified by rsg123 at 8:09 PM 11/17/2009

Dude! That sounds BAD! honestly get that thing to the dealer - pronto! or to someone that can diagnose that noise.

If it's a belt then it could be a frozen compressor - is your AC on when you start your car? if it is turn it off and see if it still makes the same noise.

[rsg123]

The A/C was always off.

[xerexabante]

Do Not keep on starting the car and shutting it off without getting to normal temp. Make sure you have oil then warm it up. The noise should go away.

This happened to me a while back when I backed the car up to let the misses out of the garage.

There was a post about this a long time ago.

[ken in az]

Do Not keep on starting the car and shutting it off without getting to normal temp. Make sure you have oil then warm it up. The noise should go away.

This happened to me a while back when I backed the car up to let the misses out of the garage.

There was a post about this a long time ago.

Just call me thread revival Ken!

zerothread?id=402933

These engines have solid lifters not hydraulic - so I wonder what could cause that noise as it's obvious that it's happened before

[ken in az]

Potentially it could be the timing chain tensioners loosing oil pressure for some reason. Most people have claimed the noise to be comiing from the belts. That's really the only thing I can think of unless it's the VTC unit on the end of the intake cams

[SteveTheTech]

What seems to be happening is when the temperature drops and the oil leaks down slightly there may be a bit of a noise and associated vibration. Since the seasons in my neck of the woods are just starting to change I am in the early stages of some not so scientific testing to find an easy remedy for this. So far I have been comparing Nissans Ester oil (used in the VQ37VHR) in certain doses to resolve this issue.

The reasoning for ester is my loathing for BG products and the fact that this oil chemically adheres itself to the internal engine components like nothing else I have seen. There is allot of debate among the G owners about the cost-benefit of running pure ester but I really think that the cost offset of 1qt (~$12) is actually cheap when you get into oil additives.

If you engine oil is not low do not add any more oil as adding 6+ qts can actually cause driveability concerns at take off. Many of the forum guys think the level needs to be at the top of the stick but in actuallity they can cause issues with that. I usually add 5.8 qts and never have an issue, 5.8 brings the level to a hair below the F line.

I do not know if that is much of a help but I would not be too concerned about engine damage it looks like you take great care of your M (from your previous posts).

[rsg123]

So should I try running it for a few minutes to see if it goes away? I am concerned by the strong burning smell that this will damage something. Like I stated earlier, I started it on Sunday and then turned off the engine 5 seconds later while testing to see if my hardwired radar detector worked. As xerexabante and a few others have noted, sometimes there is a noise problem if the engine is shut off before reaching operating temperature. This apparently will resolve if the engine is ran for a few minutes. The burning smell makes me worried about doing this because damage might be occurring. Is this a valid concern, and should I just go ahead and try running it?

For the people that have gone through this before, did your car sound like mine?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VnoAC9F538

[ken in az]

I wish I could say "yes" and just run it till the noise stops....but I'd be lying my arse off.

It's really your call....can you really trust a few people on the internet with your money and time?

I can tell you if it was me, I would just run it and see if it goes away, but that's me. I'm fairly handy when it comes to mechanical stuff and have rebuilt a few engines and transmissions before so that stuff doesn't scare me. Plus it would give me an opportunity to port the head and potentially add in lower compression pistons for "turbo" power.

[dvan]

I had this exact same problem (see my link below for my post). It first started after my car sat at a paint shop for 4 days. The paint people called me and mentioned my car making a strange noise. They thought maybe low oil but the level was fine. I was freakin out because I was over 20 miles from my house so I drove it gently until i could buy some oil. By the time i left the store with 5qts of mobile 1...the sound was gone.

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