For the rear: You will need a set of lowering blocks which can be found at many local parts stores such as checker. You simply go up to an employee and tell them what you're looking for as they are typically in the back. They come generally in 2" 2.5" and 3" blocks and will lower the truck accordingly. Longer u-bolts will also be needed; your best bet is to take the old ones off once you get going to check out the size as different model pickups may have different sizes. The length will need to be extended in respect to the size block you purchase. New nuts and washers are typically included with the u-bolts. Lastly you will need new "drop shocks". These are shocks specifically made for the change in ride height that your block is giving you.

For the front: In later model pickups ie: 720 and hardbody, you will only need a socket wrench and an open end wrench. The size socket and open end will likely depend on the year your truck was produced so it is best to check what size you will need before starting. In earlier model datsun truck you may also need longer bolts in place of the stock torsion bar anchors as well. Make sure these bolts are grade 8!!!!

Reference Pictures:

The process rear:
I. With wheel chucks around your front tires jack up the rear and put jackstands under the vehicle. Once the truck is up, release the jack so the springs will drop to full extension, but once full extension is reached use the jack as support for the axle while working.
II. Unbolt all four nuts from the u-bolts (see pic 1). The typical socket size is a 19mm deep dish though it should always be checked as your truck may be different. Also unbolt both the top and bottom bolts of the shock and remove it. The top is typically 18mm and the bottom a 16mm. Once the shock is removed, the u-bolts can be removed from the lower plate and the whole assembly can be removed from the axle.
III. Repeat on other side of the truck.
IV. Jack the axle back up as to separate the axle from the leaf springs.
V. Slide the lowering block into place in between the axle and leaf springs. There is a tab on the block and that will face down into a hole in the leaf spring. The stock tab on the axle will fit into a hole found on the opposite side of the tab on the block.
VI. Repeat on the other side of the truck. A partner may be helpful for this step as the other side may be unseated while putting in the second side's block. The bet way is for one person to set in the blocks and then align the axle while a second person then lowers the jack back to full extension. Leave jack under for support.
VII. Put the new u-bolts around the axle.
VIII. Reattach the lower plate and torque the new nuts to the u-bolts at 75-85 ft lbs. Re torque after 100 miles!
IX. Repeat on other side.
X. Reattach new shocks. Attach the lower end of the new shocks in to both sides. You may need to jack the axle up a couple inches in order to attach the tops of the shocks. Once attached and everything is tight, remove the jack stands and lower the truck.

The process front:
I. With the e-brake on and wheel chucks around rear tires, jack the front end of the truck up and put it on jack stands.
II. Proceed to the torsion bar anchor bolts which are shown in picture 2. If you are having trouble finding them refer to picture 3. Picture 3 shows the path the torsion bar takes back to the anchor bolts from the front suspension.
III. Put your socket wrench (typically 17mm) on the bolt itself and the open end wrench (typically 15mm) on the nut on top of the bolt.
IV. Turn the bolt left (loosen) to lower the front end. You will need to choose your own ride height when doing this as there is not a 1:1 ratio for bolt movement to lowering height. This means you may end up jacking the truck up and down several times before you get it completely right. Each time you should let the shocks settle before measuring height. With older model trucks keep in mind you may need longer bolts to achieve your desired drop.
V. Remove jack stands and drop the truck.
VI. Go get a front end alignment because both your toe and camber will be out severely. You may find that if you have frame damage your camber may not be able to be fully readjusted due to the new drop.

It took me about an hour by myself to lower the rear and you can bet on about 5 minutes for the front if you get the ride heigh right the first try... otherwise jacking up again and so on will take a bit longer.

If you have any further question please contact me via e-mail!

When all was said and done... I ended up with this

Quote, originally posted by krimsonviper »

Oh yeah? Well, I saw a Razi on the freeway sitting under a Pezi. I was jealous.

I'll try to get some pics of the torsion bars of my 92 because they are ever so slightly different than your 720.

Just a little tip: When I was lowering my front torsion bars, I used a "Locking Flex Ratcheting Combination Wrench" It made lowering the front a whole lot easier than using an open ended wrench because of the limited space. The nuts for the torsion bar adjustment on my 92 hardbody were both 19mm, but it may be different for other years.

there are many options out there in that respect including KYB monomax that are pretty good... but if you're really looking for the 'perfect' ride they make adjustable KONI's that can be found on summitracing.com... that way you get to choose exactly what ride you get out of the vehicle... most expensive option of course

for the rear couple the lowering blocks with along with a re-arch of the leaf springs (or flip the eyelets of the leaf springs) but that needs to be done at a spring shop.

Let the air out of the tires

Changing the shocks will get you close to stock ride again?

Sorry for the noobie question.

shocks will not change your ride height unless the current ones are completely shot and even then it wouldn't take you up much

and just a side note ^ On my '97 I found it was also a 19 or 3/4 for the torsion bars (3/4 seemed to work better for some reason)

2. suppose I wanna Raise the nose of my truck how would I do that?

but personally i like the front lower... i lowered my front more than the rear... helps my driving style at autocross too

1. some odpl guy told me if i took the thick a** leaf off the bottom of the leaf pack and put it on the top instead, it would give me 2 more inches of drop, by flattening out the leafs and give me stiffer rear ride (true or false)

2. was your truck competive in auto x, like whats another vehicle that was there one day that had the same times as you?

second question... this is a little harder to answer because i'm running in a class that is for cars built for the track only (which mine still has a long way to go in order to be competitive in) BUT... as far as being competitive against other 'street' cars... yes it is

here are a few times from a previous event

my truck (less than 100whp / truck suspension) - 64.801

'93 240sx (KA port and polished w/full exhaust / full suspension) - 65.235

'07 STi (300whp / full suspension) - 64.145

'06 s2000 (stock but good tires) - 65.055

now like i said... there is a lot of room to play in my class... and to be competitive in my class i need to build the truck to be much better... the guy who took 2nd in nationals in my class was there this same day and...

'87 corolla gt-s AE68 (250 whp / FULL CUSTOM suspension / 1700 lbs) - 55.247

and ill expirement with the leafs on sunday and let you know the results.

did you caome up with anything??i wanna do the leaf fswitch if it worked for you!!!

I also see a few potential problems: mainly that with that configuration, the suspension may get softer as it compresses. not good.

However, I admit that it is difficult to picture exactly what the effect will be without trying it. Since the body is such a heap of rust and bondo, and has mold and grass growing on it, I volunteer to try this probably bad idea. It may be a week or two, but I'll get back to you all with some pictures and reviews.

Control arm bushings are tightened with all four wheels on the ground. They have a predetermined range of motion once tightened down. By lowering the truck automatically those bushings are out of range due to the new angle of the control arms to the frame. To fix this you must loosen the control arm bushings, set the truck back on the ground then re tighten them to spec. This will allow them to adjust to the new control arm angle to the frame. Otherwise they will be ripped apart in a shorter amount of time because their range of motion is out of limits. Easiest to perform on an alignment rack.