Racing Clutch Break In. (not really 240 specific)

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idahotuner
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Ok this question is for my 240 but it can apply to all racing clutches. thats why i posted here.

I have a new ACT heavy duty racing clutch and ACT light weight fly wheel combination.

this is word for word what the instuctions say that came with the cutch.
ACT INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS wrote:Recommended break in for ACT Street Discs is 200-300 miles of mild street driving. Break in for the ACT Race Disk can be accelerated by performing several hard slips in high gear prior to racing. Allow the clutch to cool for about 10 minutes between these slips to prevent over heating. The purpose is to lap the surfaces together under controlled load so the full surface makes contact.
so that seems like it is giving to options on either end of the spectrum. So why cant i just go out and drive the car how i would normally drive it. because it seems like if it does slip it will be lapping the surfaces together like it should be and if it doesnt slip then it will be fine......

and what does it mean hard slips in High Gear? how would you go about doing that.

i dont want to glaze my clutch and fly wheel and that is what i am worried about doing. so i wont be running high boost just the boost level that the acuator is set for. i think it is like 7 psi.

also it seems like if i let the clutch out in low rpms then get on it then it will be fine it would just be the transition when i make the shift if i have it really reved up that it could glaze it. so i should be able to let it out get on it pretty hard when it is engaged. then let off the gas let the rpms drop back down to about 3000 before making my shift into the next gear..

main thing is i havent be able to drive my car for about 8 months. and i want to feel the boost lol.



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elwesso
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if youre doing a lot of sudden on/off of the clutch, then thats not good, because the surface has not been properly lapped... Its not about you getting on it, you just want to be easy on the clutch, let it engage real smooth.

The slips theyre talking about it seems to me is just starting out in 4th or 5th gear instead of 1st..

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idahotuner
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elwesso wrote:
The slips theyre talking about it seems to me is just starting out in 4th or 5th gear instead of 1st..
wouldnt that just kill the motor?

EDIT: i should add. its a 6 puck unsprung clutch. i know the unsprung can be a pain. and next time i will possible go with sprung depending on how i like this one


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idahotuner
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here is a cool video i found on the "other" forum while searching. didnt really help me out with my question but it helped me understand clutches a little better. http://videos.streetfire.net/v...7.htm

Modified by idahotuner at 11:51 AM 5/27/2008

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brizanden
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no link dumb ****

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idahotuner
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brizanden wrote:no link dumb ****
there ya go dumbarse

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Oatmealman
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I've broken in clutches but going a week of regular driving in the city.Nice and smooth no hard throttle just cruising through the city, but after the week I drive a little bit harder than normal.

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nsrZ32
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My general rule of thumb is 500 miles of stop and go city driving to break in a clutch

Crunkrich
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I think what they mean by slipping in high gear is slowly accelerating from about 60 mph, and jus barely pushing the clutch in so its not engaged all the way but the car still accelerates. Like if the clutch was shot and slipping by itself when you try to accelerate.

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idahotuner
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But then i am reading that may cause heat spots and warpage.

what would be considered sliping it really hard. doing it for like a min or doing it for half an hour.

cause it says to do it liek 10 times and let it cool down inbetween doing it. how long woiuld cool down take?or how would you know when it is cool enough to do soem more slipping.

i am really considering going this route. just so i can enjoy my car as soon as possible

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Mr1der
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I just got mine broke in on the Civic...daily commute for a week (about 500 miles)

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idahotuner
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my car isnta DD. i will only drive it when i want to drive it. lol but that means i am not putting alot of miles on it fast. so it means i am not going to be breaking my clutch in very fast. i guess stop and go traffic is the best for breaking it in.

i have done research all day long. and have heard serveral different ideas. some say since it isa pucked clutch you dont need to break it i nat all. some say 500 miles. but then some say just driving it on the highways doent do anything. you have to be in stop and go traffic. maybe i will call ACT up tomrrow and find out waht exactly they suggest.

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brizanden
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i would do that. sounds like the best idea to me

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r34 gtr
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I backed mine down the driveway, turned out onto the street, revved it to 7k and dumped it. 30k miles later it hasn't slipped once.

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skott.b
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ive all ways did the 500 miles normal driving not reving past 3 1/2 k. once i hit the 500 mile point and its cool. well its game time. also i never chose to get a lite fly wheel. i wanna keep my revs going. but thats just me.

codyace
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I've heard of this hard slip technique....it's namely putting the clutch in, and kinda trying to doing a rolling burnout...like you get up to speed in 4th, clutch in, rev it out, and slowly release the clutch....almost like you're starting from a dead stop, but you're really going 60 mph.

I like the backroad break in...that is, drive 100-200 miles on some backroads that require to upshift, downshift, upshift, downshift alot. This will let you keep everythign moving, and then allow them to break in. Drive normally, no redlineing or anything, no banging gears. from 200-400 miles I like to drive it, accelerate a little harder, but only after in gear...and no multiple gear accelerations. Stick it in 3rd, release, clutch, roll into it.....that kinda stuff. Continue to drive back roads.

After 400-500 miles, it's time to get down and dirty with it...bang some gears, do some burnouts, etc etc

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Red coupe
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My buddy is actually a pretty decent mechanic, and when he does clutch jobs he just gets back to driving it full on right away.

I wouldn't do that just to be safe, but its worked fine for him on a good number of clutch jobs...So I guess the point is your worrying to much.

Slipping the clutch for a minute straight I would think of as a long time, I would think it would start getting pretty warm even after like 10-15 seconds of continuous good slipping, but it depends on the speed...

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idahotuner
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codyace wrote:I like the backroad break in...that is, drive 100-200 miles on some backroads that require to upshift, downshift, upshift, downshift alot. This will let you keep everythign moving, and then allow them to break in. Drive normally, no redlineing or anything, no banging gears. from 200-400 miles I like to drive it, accelerate a little harder, but only after in gear...and no multiple gear accelerations. Stick it in 3rd, release, clutch, roll into it.....that kinda stuff. Continue to drive back roads.
hehe if i do it on back roads i will be tempted to keep it at or near redline every time i shift up or down. i suppose i will doa combination of all the techniques. that kinda seems to e waht your saying cody.

slip it some times. aby it others. go through the gears alot.. but not pushing it to hard.

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:
hehe if i do it on back roads i will be tempted to keep it at or near redline every time i shift up or down. i suppose i will doa combination of all the techniques. that kinda seems to e waht your saying cody.

slip it some times. aby it others. go through the gears alot.. but not pushing it to hard.
YOu've got it! You just need to 'work' the clutch, without overloading it. The more miles the more you push it.

As far as the above comment, break in procedure really isn't as important with OE replacement/OE power applications.

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idahotuner
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codyace wrote:As far as the above comment, break in procedure really isn't as important with OE replacement/OE power applications.
yeha that makes since.

i am gladd i ddint doa full rebuild. and do a clutch type lsd and new brakes and clutch all at the same time. cause the yare all required to be broken in differently and it would suck to have to break the min one ata time.

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:
yeha that makes since.

i am gladd i ddint doa full rebuild. and do a clutch type lsd and new brakes and clutch all at the same time. cause the yare all required to be broken in differently and it would suck to have to break the min one ata time.
Hehe, I had that same issue when I did mine the first time.

I ended up putting the diff in first, breaking it in, doing some burnouts, and then putting the brakes on, and breaking them in. The next week, in went the motor/new clutch hehe.

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idahotuner
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yeha i only have to break in my brakes in clutch. so its not that bad. my HLSD is plug and play

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idahotuner
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well i called up ACt and the ysaid that with the clutch i have i can go into 5th gear while driving. and slip it prety good. feathering it. and then elt it cool forabout 10-15 mins. thne do it again. and let it cool. then after that it will be good for waht everi can through at it. or he said i could go like a 100 miles onormal in and out driving wit hthe clutch. and that would do it. he said it would probably take less then 100 miles even. so i am like sweet. sliping it up in 5th dirvng it to townsliping it againthen boosting it. YAHOO>

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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when i replaced my clutch on my 240 i tried that driving slow thing 4 about 100 miles, it didnt work out 4 me cause i cant take that babying shizz. But nothing bad happened to the clutch, it always held after that.... I guess its up to you. You should drive your car as your dd for about a week or 2 to break it in.

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idahotuner
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i dont DD any where i drive quad/4 wheeler to work lol.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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wow where the hell do u pass, through the freakin jungle

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TrunkMonkey
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the last clutch break in i did consisted of a rolling burnout in reverse out of a garage and another rolling burnout thru 3rd gear down the street.

so far so good.

then again, i also broke an engine in in just a few hours.

the longer you take to break something in, the more time you have to break something.

-demetrius


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