already covered this. the new one i got is made by husky.

Quote, originally posted by EW »

Nice work but it should be a lesson to you guys up north to buy a non-rusty car from a southern/western state.

definitely a lesson learned!! never will i buy a car again with rust.

Quote, originally posted by nightsauce »

what are you gonna do with the stock trans? I would be interested in purchasing it. i just purchased an auto 91 hatch.

Quote, originally posted by gregfarz78 »

yeah what did you ever do with the old KA and trans was it shot?

i sold the motor & tranny a looong time ago. the block was pretty rusty on the outside, exhaust smoked a little, it was on it's way toward a rebuild i would say. the tranny was in decent condition except for the 2nd gear synchro going.

Quote, originally posted by Kalypso123 »

true indeed, I have to rust treat mine before I bring it back to NYC its a florida car. Im not sure what I need to do that. but some goggles, a brush, and jackstands is a start.

just take care of it man. no snow/bad weather/etc.

Quote, originally posted by hbpignosePA »

u my friend are a god of rust killing wish i lived a bit closer to NJ, im gonna need all the help i can when i start the s30.... i might just try and source a new shell from AZ or cali.... if i do go for a new shell ill donate the one i have to u,

haha thanks man. i would def. look in az/ca for a clean s30 shell. when i finally get to that point of getting one that is what i'm going to do. learned the hard way this time around lol.

i'll have some more pics up sometime soon hopefully.

You will know exactly where to look and figure out its value based on were and how bad it is rusted.

This is some serious knowlege. I can only hope you make a thread in the 240sx purchaseing advise section of NICO. You are unoffically NICO's rust guru.

haha yeah man, the finish is pretty damn tough. and yeah spraying it on looks much nicer, but it doesn't cover everything (even though it looks like it). so i brush on the first 2 coats to make sure i get the coverage/thickness, and then spray 2 coats to make the surface pretty and even. made the mistake of not brushing it on first in the engine bay so now i have to go over it again and yeah that stuff won't come off for like a week if it gets on you lol

i know the s13 chassis like the back of my hand now haha.
from what i've seen on my car and other people's threads, rust will start anywhere there is a seam (between 2 layers of metal). and in my case, start rusting from the inside out (like the frame rails & lower rad support).

the most common place i've seen rust forming so far is the top of the front shock towers where the reinforcement plate is:

got the quarter panel piece trimmed down and test fitted:

got some patches cut out:

started welding up the hole in the floor from the seat mount:

yeah so not a whole lot but i'm getting there...


Modified by m tr4nch at 5:09 AM 10/10/2008

nah, that small weld spot you saw on the floor is me plugging up a screw hole since the previous owner had an amp drilled straight through the floor with some wood screws

and yeah looks like i hit the bandwidth limit on my photobucket :/ which will get reset on the 10th since i don't feel like spending any money on their pro account.

i haven't really got anything done lately since i've worked 51 hours in 4 days since last thurs

some other places...

i've emailed rust bullet about this to see what the fuck is going on
we'll see what happens..

i might try some por-15 on the floor section and see how it holds up compared to rust bullet.

edit: to clarify, those spots of rust coming through are only in areas where there was previously rust that i sandblasted. the rest of the undercoat i did in the rear for example still looks perfect.

Modified by m tr4nch at 5:28 AM 8/6/2008

also.. ive used por15 and never had any problems... you might want to try using ZINC PRIMER.... zinc is good for inhibiting rust.. there are a few companies that sell them... i found zinc spray cans : http://www.safetyvests.com/S00...pound
........... that is the approach im going to take.... and then maybe layer it with por15 and rubber coating....

http://hybridangle.com/ Looking for a great photographer? Check out this friend of mine.

Quote, originally posted by UsJdmTuner »

also.. ive used por15 and never had any problems... you might want to try using ZINC PRIMER.... zinc is good for inhibiting rust.. there are a few companies that sell them... i found zinc spray cans : http://www.safetyvests.com/S00...pound ........... that is the approach im going to take.... and then maybe layer it with por15 and rubber coating....

yeah i might try out some por-15 on the floor. i think if i want to use it on the other places though i'd have to strip all the rust bullet off to the bare metal again for it to work. which would be like starting over. i got some weld thru primer also which is basically a zinc coating.

Quote, originally posted by homeslicej2 »

Sorry to see that man. Many of your pics don't show up right now bc you've exceeded the bandwidth on photobucket. Are you sure that you removed all the rust when you blasted it?

i definitely removed all the rust.. even if i didn't, the rust bullet is supposed to work directly over rusty metal anyway..

sometimes i just want to get a rust free shell and forget about this sh*t..

They use unlimited bandwidth that plus al the pictures end up the same size.

I accidentall deleted all my S14 pictures from my Myspace account and Myspace still has them up and running.

Even if there may have been small small amounts of grease/oil, the "rust killer" won't stick worth ****.

then i'd have to go back and fix every picture link lol

Quote, originally posted by kick_it_sideways »

Damn that sucks. I'm going through "project POR15" right now and seems to be working well. How long ago did you coat that area where the rust came back? Even if there may have been small small amounts of grease/oil, the "rust killer" won't stick worth ****.

that first pic is what i did last summer underneath in the rear (right around the muffler location, on the side of the frame rail). the second pic was my old rad support that i did in november 2006, and the other 2 are in the engine bay done in april 2007. i mean don't get me wrong, other than those spots, it's holding up really well.

and yeah after blasting the rust, i wiped down the metal with 3m adhesive wax and mark remover before coating, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Quote, originally posted by m tr4nch »

then i'd have to go back and fix every picture link lol

Just trying to save you some $

you sure it's unlimited bandwidth?

But I am sure a email to Tom or a look at Myspace's policy would do the trick

Quote, originally posted by dickie »

i want a fake id too, but i want mine to be from the local high school to make me seem YOUNGER. "yeah i just turned 19 sweetheart, let me get another beer for you and your friend."

I AR I LEARNED'D <blink 182 fan for life>

lower support: 62530-53F25
upper support (89-90): 62510-40F00
upper support (91-93): 62510-53F00 (has the reinforcement pieces)

if you just want the entire front core: 62500-53F00 (upper support has the reinforcement pieces)

so anyways.. i did a quick search on google for por-15 and rustbullet, and apparently i'm not the only one having this problem of the rust coming back from using rustbullet .. so i will be getting some por-15 and using that for whatever else i have left

pisses me off though that i had to find this out now after already using it
hopefully i can just patch up those areas that are showing rust-through (with my remaining rustbullet) and spray some rubberized undercoating over it so no air/moisture can do that again.

and if worse comes to worse i will just strip the rustbullet off the places i sandblasted and recoat with por-15. hopefully i won't have to go through all that though.

good luck man. keep up the good work

must have read over that ....my bad keep up the good work!

You are indeed a madman. It's too soon to be performing ground-ups on an S13. If it were a 240Z or a 510 I'd understand. That is not to say I'm not blown away by your patience and aptitude, I'm just saying I'd have a difficult time placating you if you told me you were perfectly sane.

p.s. I use Bill Hirsch rust-stopping paint and it sometimes does something similar. The rust continues to form and it cracks open the surface of the paint a week after it cured. But that's usually an indication that what I'm painting over isn't the complete source of the problem.

its pretty much as rusted as mine was!! nice results so far!! keep it up!!

my build/restoration thread!!!!
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=222043

also in my researching, i came across this thread Rust Preventive Product Test and what it shows is that rust bullet, por-15, eastwood, masterseries, etc. all basically do the same thing and perform similarly.

i bought some masterseries silver, satin black, and gloss black to use on the parts i have left to do. check it: masterseries

yeah i know i'm nuts haha. thanks for the compliments.

Quote, originally posted by GOnissanTOM »

awsome build man, you pay attention to detail like you have been doing this for years.

thanks!

Quote, originally posted by ca20det »

dude welcome in the insane club but you deserve the title of the insaniest ! damn man it must have cost you a buttload of money!!! its pretty much as rusted as mine was!! nice results so far!! keep it up!!

haha yeah man! thanks for checking my thread out, you definitely are beating me with getting sh*t done though haha.

Quote, originally posted by Huncity240 »

why didnt you acid dip the whole car. would have gotten rid of the rust,seam sealer and undercaoting ****. this is after you stripped every last piece of metal plating and everything.

i thought about doing this a long time ago actually. but it's pretty expensive, and it's a lot easier said than done. there's a lot of work you'd have to do afterwards to get all the metal coated again... ALL of it. so i went this route instead.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/306682

Quote, originally posted by ILoveMyRHS13 »

We're the Kyle/Brian of Nico. You're Brian (except mechanically inclined) and I suck your balls in every thread, AKA Kyle

Quote, originally posted by MMaxeyJR »

I will need your Moses abilities

i know that those paddle combo switch lights are 200$ and you have so much oem stuff!