NALADUDE911

Check out my cardomain!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3392312

every time i went and looked harder i found something else

i use one of these to apply the first couple coats, they are like $0.49 each or something cheap like that at home depot:

and then i spray 2 coats with my sharpe fx300 spray gun:

the rust bullet unfortunately does not come in a spray can.

This is an awesome build,but i don think i would trust that rotisserie.

Also when useing rust bullet isn't there a special cleaning procedure you must do to your gun to insure that the paint residue doesn't harden in the gun it self?

rhd s13.....need i say more!

Quote, originally posted by NismoDriver240 »

i'd like honda if i liked getting anal

Quote, originally posted by BigMACKenzie »

I dont care how fast you are going, just GTFO of my way when i want to go fast And as far as trucks not getting fix it tickets and fines for noise: If you live anywhere where ppl have theese big BubbaFvck hillbilly trucks, chances are your cops in the area have the same sh1t in their driveway, not a bad *** melon launcher sh1te 240. thats why you get the ticket and not hooter stumpfvck riding with orville pigdicker in the monster truck. just remember not all truck drivers are douchebags but douchebags love big goofy trucks, so dont hate on oatmealman and teh lumberjack.

thank you! welcome to nico!

Quote, originally posted by op.tic »

Have you used any of the rust bullet black shell yet? got any pics of it applied? How hard is that stuff anyway, can it be chipped off at all?

i painted the lower radiator support with the blackshell before i welded it on. the finish is pretty much the same as the regular rust bullet. it looks powdercoated and doesn't chip. both the regular rust bullet and the blackshell are pretty tough coatings. i'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow when i'm in the garage.

Quote, originally posted by rcabrita »

Does that bad boy do paint as well? Also when useing rust bullet isn't there a special cleaning procedure you must do to your gun to insure that the paint residue doesn't harden in the gun it self?

yes it does.
you have to keep the paint flowing or it will start to dry inside the gun. the directions on the rust bullet say not to let it sit more than 15 (?) minutes. after i'm done i run a bit of toluene through it and thoroughly clean it which works really well.

Quote, originally posted by k00laid83 »

yea that gun shoots good....and also you can pick up a three guy paint gun set in a case sold by napa...i have that set and i've shot my cars roof.. my cousins cars...and a three stage house of color paint job on a harley. i think they cost me 120 for all three!

that's not bad for 3 spray guns.
still using my sig? i fixed the "1" if you want it let me know.

update
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got the driver's side draft duct cut out in the rear.

cut the bottom of the passenger side quarter panel off finally
still have to cut the duct part on the inside..

tomorrow i'll be cutting the duct, and i will be attempting to cut out the piece where the door hinge bolts up on the driver's side

(pic to refresh your memory)

Modified by m tr4nch at 5:03 AM 10/10/2008

After all is said and done...
what do you think all of this is going to do with the structual integrity of the car? You pretty much replaced it with welded together pieces of metal...

oh yea huh dang ive actually have been wanting to get rid of it man. and yea bro check those guns out!

i think it will be fine, if not better. i mean all a car really is is pieces of metal spot welded together in a million places.

Quote, originally posted by k00laid83 »

oh yea huh dang ive actually have been wanting to get rid of it man. and yea bro check those guns out!

just bustin your balls man lol.. i'll have to take a ride over to napa one of these days and see what they got.

Quote, originally posted by tEknoS13 »

that spray gun, i saw some on ebay and they have different tips i think, they got 1.3,1.4, 1.5,..... which one do u have?

ah yes.. i bought the gun with a 1.8 tip which is said to be good for spraying primer. i bought a 1.4 tip set to see if it would atomize the rust bullet a little better since it's pretty thick but i haven't really noticed any change.

i read that 1.4 is good for basecoats, and 1.2 for clear
but it looks like i won't be doing either of those myself so i'll be good with my 1.8/1.4 combo.

i'll have some more pics up later tonight hopefully

went and picked up my new frame rail pieces

old vs. new:

double 16 gauge layers vs. the stock 16 on outside and 18 on inside:
still have some trimming/bending to do obviously

got the duct cut out on the passenger's side:

started the door hinge area.. wtf...
didn't even realize there was another layer in there.. mmm crusty...

ran out of juice in both batteries for my drill, so i will finish drilling the spot welds and cutting tomorrow.

just keeps getting worse and worse it seems


Modified by m tr4nch at 5:04 AM 10/10/2008

haha.. i'm not giving up. it's just a friggin PITA

Quote, originally posted by Traldan »

I have an immense amount of respect for the work you've put into this car. Keep it up, man. I'll definitely be watching this.

thanks!

did a little more today. i took a break and got sidetracked reading about welding and stuff online.

anyways.. got this bitch taken care of...

i guess i'll be stopping by the sheet metal shop again haha

i'm going to do the other side also, just to be on the safe side, although i'm sure it's not going to be quite as bad as that^ but still a little rusty nonetheless.

not sure if i'll get anything done tomorrow.

Modified by m tr4nch at 5:06 AM 10/10/2008

For Sale: Sr altenator 60... Greddy sr20 RAS 47

thanks, much appreciated.

little bit of an update...

first off, here's a pic of the lower rad support with the black shell on it for those who were wondering. it comes out looking like it's powdercoated.
(don't mind the silver specs, it's just a little overspray from when i painted the welds)

here is what the pass. side upper door hinge mount looked like. can't really tell from the outside if there's anything going on in there..

and DONE

i figured out why this happens. when the cars were originally manufactured, the pieces are spot welded together as bare metal. then the car gets an e-coat applied (electronically coated, for adhesion and to fill in everywhere). well those layers were so tight against each other that the paint didn't get in between them so over time the uncoated metal just rusted inside there. this may also be the reason why my frame rails rusted where there was the double layer.

anyways, that's it for now.

almost forgot, these bad boys showed up on my doorstep today:

edit: 600th post, w00t!!


Modified by m tr4nch at 5:07 AM 10/10/2008

true indeed, I have to rust treat mine before I bring it back to NYC
its a florida car.

Im not sure what I need to do that. but some goggles, a brush, and jackstands is a start.

u my friend are a god of rust killing

wish i lived a bit closer to NJ, im gonna need all the help i can when i start the s30.... i might just try and source a new shell from AZ or cali....

if i do go for a new shell ill donate the one i have to u,

Quote, originally posted by hbpignosePA »

u my friend are a god of rust killing.....

i'd pay him money to fix the minor rust i have.

but where do you guys get the ****ing $$ and time to do this??

so fast nicely and rapidly
DO YOU DO FOR WORK?!?!

TELL ME NOW!

S13 Partout
Link.