Admittedly though, if that is only on 15 psi, then 392 is a boat load of power.

Truth is Treason in the Kingdom of Lies - Ron Paul

i heard from a reputable source that per lb. of boost increases hp's by 7% of what ur motor is n/a. so that would meen that the ka per lb. of boost would b around 10-11 hp's.
check this out.

How it works:
In order to understand how this calculator works, it is helpful to understand the basics of supercharger technology and why superchargers make more power (check out our tech section for more on info). A rough starting estimate to calculate HP gain is to take boost (say 5psi) and multiply it by 7% (a constant) to get your approximate power gain (in our example 35%). Why 7%? Because 7% is approximately how much more air and fuel gets into the motor with each pound of boost that is added. To get a more exact figure, take 1psi boost and divide by normal atmospheric pressure, 14.7psi at sea level. 1 divided by 14.7 equals 6.802%. Under ideal conditions, you can expect to burn 6.802% more fuel and air per pound of boost. This is the starting point for this calculator, however, as boost rises above 5psi, other inefficiencies kick in, so gains above 5psi become progessively less effective in making more power. When you need to retard your ignition timing, which is often necessary when running a supercharged engine to avoid detonation, other timing inefficiencies kick in. This is factored into the "HP Loss due to timing adjustment", which is an estimate as to the amount of ignition retard that will be required at a given level of boost. To offset these losses, you can run a higher octane fuel or an intercooler, both of which increase your detonation threshhold and allow you to run more boost without experiencing detonation. For more on detonation, check out "Detonation, Knock, and Pre-Ignition 101".

oh and by the way everyone has been askin bout the strut tower, and that was some stupid noob **** that i did before i knew how to clock a turbo,i just hacked that ****,hopefully i can weld that **** up and fix it back close to normal.

VTA ?!

What turbo model?

Quote, originally posted by tu_bryan »

i wanna buy a civic so i can rice it out

Quote, originally posted by WDRacing »

Anything SR related automaticlly makes your 240 Queer, its like a STD WD

My page..................................

myspace.com/r3n0v4d0

haha dude.. i was thinking that was the issue when i first seen it... but when i seen the rest of the bay.. im like man he looks like he knows whats going on..

then im like ****, did he blow chunks out of the outlet, then i seen that your compressor shaft was still inplace..

looks good bro..

looks good. At what rpm do you hit 10psi?

im looking into these and being that im new at turbo aps i have no idea how to tell which turbo meets with which manifold

WD

Any clearance with the master cylinder with ABS?

Just paid a deposit for a ETD manifold and was looking into a HX35. Just wanted to see if there was any clearance or fitment issues.

"A fast car doesn't have to be a loud car"

Yeah that was my car with the H1C. There were no abnormal timing changes at that time. The car just flat out made efficient power with that turbo. I believe I had stg 2 BC cams and custom intake at the time. And I was running a 50/50 E85/ 91 piss mix. The 392whp was on a 1 bar spring only, the boost controller wasnt even hooked up for that run.

TWIT @RB30DET

they are not direct bolt up turbos. you will have to make your own dump.... if you don't have a welder.. you can still get some mandrel bends once you have the turbo mounted and mock up a dump/down pipe... mark it tape it and take it to a local shop and have it welded.

Asian Woman Wonders Why This Thread Has Not Been Stickied??

EdiT* HI :P

Modified by Reno at 2:36 PM 4/25/2008

I need to get the turbine off to weld the wastegate shut and i need to clock it anyways. I am having trouble getting the two to come apart. I let it sit in penatrating oil for a few hours and then attempted to seperate them with a chisel and hammer. Don't worry...i was barely tapping it. It didnt move at all. Tomorrow i plan on hitting it with the air hammer (lightly) unless anyone has a better idea.

p.s.
Its not my turbo so believe me when i say i am being gentel (spelling?)
with it.

-Thanks

mine was rusted together. i tried a lot of stuff, most of which are probably very wrong. what eventually worked for me was that i held the turbo by the comp. housing about an inch or 2 off of my work bench. then i wrapped the end of a hammer in a towel and hit the turbine housing with the hammer. it wasn't the "right" way or the best way to do it, but it was the only way i could get it off.

i hope that helps

but here it goes

question how would a hx52 spool on a ka24de with a twin scroll setup? by 4800 rpm?

xD

The twins car had a hx40 on it. They held the stock block hp record for a while till cory took it. They were on 30psi and made a little over 520whp i believe. Search for it and you might find their video.

As far as a hx52 goes.....they are huge. A local honda guy had one on his built gsr and he hit boost around 6K. When boost hit....you better be holding on to something.

Add heat and use big channel lock pliers n twist ever so gently should come apart.. air hammer makes me cringe.

Modified by ka24monster at 3:31 PM 1/4/2009

Quote, originally posted by Reno »

Biggamehit why H1C over HX35??

this particular H1C has a bigger compressor. i have no need for the hx35. i got good results on my kA from the older smaller H1C also it was free lol. its bigger and better than the t28 on my current rb25

what are the specs and would you ever consider a twin-scroll Mani?

I am going to break it down and do the math to figure out the Trim and A/R

this partiuclar turbine is not twin scroll. However the H1C on my 240 is twin scroll.

Modified by Biggamehit at 12:11 PM 1/7/2009

Modified by Biggamehit at 12:11 PM 1/7/2009