I got my new fuel pump yesterday and installed it this morning, here's the step by step.

Tools needed:Socket wrench10mm socket8mm socketPhillipshead screwdriverFlathead screwdriverWire cuttersRags(lots of rags)Needle nose pliers

Walbro Hi-Flo fuel pump. My stock fuel pump was on it's way out. I could no longer hear it prime up whenever I turned the ignition. I'm gonna be doing a SR swap very soon so rather than buying a new stock fuel pump and then spending more money to upgrade to a Hi-flow just months later, I figured that was just a waste. I got on the forums and read that you could use a Walbro on a stock car so I decided to get one now.Start by going to your engine bay and removing the fuel pump 15A fuse in the fuse block near the battery. This will relieve the fuel pressure. Now crank the car and run it until it dies out. Remove the negative battery cable and reinstall the fuel pump fuse. Loosen the fuel cap also to remove pressure.Next clear everything from you trunk to free up some work space.Pull back the trunk carpeting to reveal the fuel pump cover.Use the 10mm socket to remove the screws from the fuel pump cover.Next, take a Sharpie and matchmark the fuel pump to the locking ring.You better commit the position of the pump to memory because the leaking gas will clear out all your markings.Remove the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump with a pair of needle nose pliers and a phillipshead screwdriver. This part scared the crap out of me. You better grab some rags because when you take off the hoses some fuel will pour and pour and start running down the sides of the fuel tank and below your car.With your locking ring and pump matchmarked, use a 8mm socket to remove the screws holding the fuel pump.Now you can pull the fuel pump assembly out of the tank, have some rags handy to soak up the excess fuel.Have something ready to lay the fuel pump assembly on. This is where those old work shirts come in handy.Use something clean to cover up the exposed fuel tank while you work on the pump.There is a bit of wiring involved in the installation of this pump. These are the two wires that you will be working with.Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the screws holding the wire to the unit.Now remove the clamps holding the rubber hose to the old fuel pump, top...and bottom.This is the stock fuel pump isolator. With this kit you won't need this.The new pump vs. the old pump. The Walbro is much smaller.Take the new fuel pump and place the new filter on the bottom.Place the fuel filter retainer on the tab after the fuel filter. I used a flathead screwdriver to push it down all the way.Here's the Walbro isolator.Mount the new isolator on the bottom of the pump.This is how it will be positioned. It falls in flush.Next you need to measure how much of the hose needs to be cut to fit the Walbro.Cut the hose, mount it to the pump and position the pump on the assembly.Done with that part.Now comes the rewiring of the fuel pump. Here is the new harness and the butt connectors...."hehe..hehehe....you said butt!"You'll have to mate the black/red wires on the new harness with the black/red wires on the pump assembly.You'll need wire cutters...old school type!New type!!!Strip 1/4" from the tips of the wires.Insert both ends of the wires into the butt connectors. MAKE SURE that you match the wires or you will reverse the polarity of the pump and it won't work!Crimp the butt connectors...16/14....Insert the harness and you're done with the wiring.Now you are ready to put the pump back into the tank. You can light up a cig now if you want...tehe!!!Put it back in the position that it was in when you took it out.Put your mounting screws back in a star formation, put the inlet and outlet fuel hoses back then secure them.There was some white buildup on the fuel pump harness so I used some electric cleaner to clean it up.After it dries, connect the fuel pump harness.Then put the fuel pump cover back and secure it. Put the negative battery cable back on and fire up the car because you are done! When I turned the key to ign, I could hear the new pump priming. Now I can drive across town to the Baskin Robbins and not worry about my car dying in the middle of traffic...sweet!
Modified by positronone at 8:15 AM 6/22/2007

Just as a side note, you should probably replace the o-ring that sits under the fuel pump cover. That is known to expand over time and cause fuel to leak out from the top. You should replace that o-ring each time you open up the fuel pump cover. The o-ring can be found at any nissan dealership for about ~$12.

Wow man nice writeup. Poor 56k's...........

+1 for sticky

A couple things I found out after the fact. After pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the car to stall. You should also take off the gas cap to relieve the extra pressure and keep all that fuel that I had from spilling out. Also, the white buildup on the fuel pump harness was dielectric grease to protect it from corrosion. You shouldn't remove it. Props to mrzabala.
Modified by positronone at 8:20 AM 6/22/2007

Little problem has me concerned. The bottom hose on my fuel filter is now fat and swollen. It looks like it might bust because it's so big and tight. Anyone else having this problem? I'm thinking I need some better hose because that's freaking me out.

didn't have that problem, but I would suggest replacing the fuel lines anyway if you haven't done that already. I've a feeling that lower hose you've got may have been replaced with a hose that was meant for carbureted fuel systems. Make sure when you do buy new fuel lines, it's for fuel injected applications.

Sweet! Just some things to point out (some have probably mentioned): -Marking with a sharpie doesnt really help. The fuel lines act as your spot when your ready to reinstall your fuel pump. -Replacing the o-ring around the cover will help insure proper sealing.-Don't spray electric cleaner or anything for that matter in the fuel pump plugs as you will lose your electric greese that protects them from some elements.

Btw. I was thinking of doing this write-up as theres only one for an s14 pump and I've worked on 3 pumps already. You beat me to it. {your hands are scare}

Nice to see somebody doing these articles. Is it possible to get a reliable crimp connection. I only hear bad things.

I bought a new section of high pressure hose today so I'll install the Z32 fuel filter and the hose later on. I found out after the fact about the dielectric grease so I got a tube of that also. As far as I can tell, I'm definitely missing the o-ring for my tank. I priced one from the parts store and placed a order. The previous owner of this car really frakked up some stuff, not only am I missing the o-ring, just the other week I took off my kick panel and my ECU wasn't bolted in, the dash had many cut and unground wires where the stereo used to be. This car was a mess. As far as the butt connections on the wires, the crimping seems to be holding up as I haven't had any problems yet. And yes, my hands do look scary....years of opening boxes!

Put the Z32 fuel filter on today and replaced that flimsy lower filter hose with high pressure hose. Also put on some new clamps, now I feel much better about driving without that bulging hose.

Good to see this write up. Thanks, positronone!!

My kit received from RavSpec didn't include this Isolator. Where can I get this? Is it supposed to come with the kit?

Nevermind. It was missing in the kit and it's on its way.
Modified by 94_240sx at 9:28 AM 6/22/2007

I'll add a couple of things here. Part number for s13 fuel tank o-ring is 17342-01A00. I didn't splice the wires. I just removed the old one from the top and soldered new wires directly. That way you don't have to mess with butt plugs.

Thanks 94_240sx! I've been waiting to get that part number. That'll do!

I installed mine over the weekend, and it went just fine. It's slightly louder than the stock pump, but not that bad.

Because of this hose and 2 clamps, pump will seat firm on the bottom isolator, so there's no need to use ziptie.

Isolator that came with the pump is smaller than stock, but it'll fit just fine.
Modified by 94_240sx at 8:23 AM 7/2/2007

Great write-up!! Why don't you put it up as a 'sticky'.

I went out for test drive and was very impressed. Idle was smooth and most of all acceleration was smooth and strong. Seemed like I was driving a different car. I'm very happy with this pump.

To me it sounds quieter than stock, at least mine definitely did. Stock pump had a loud burrrrrrrrrr!

+1

there's no reason not to solder these to the posts where the origional wires are. cleaner install and less that can go wrong later.

Butt connectors FTL

hey so if my fuel gauge is reading at like 1/2 tank after i fill up should i get a new float, or do you think it can be adjusted??

k20z1 wrote:hey so if my fuel gauge is reading at like 1/2 tank after i fill up should i get a new float, or do you think it can be adjusted??

Holy hell bump!But to answer your question it could be the resistor or float. that is causing your problems

Awesome right up!

Out of curiosity, which way is the fuel sock supposed to face in the tank? I ask because I had a shop replace my fuel pump, and I suspect they might have done it wrong. So if I mark the current position of my pump, it may be off anyway!

SWEET WRITE UP!

RamonetB wrote:Out of curiosity, which way is the fuel sock supposed to face in the tank? I ask because I had a shop replace my fuel pump, and I suspect they might have done it wrong. So if I mark the current position of my pump, it may be off anyway!

IIRC, there's only one way to get in, so it's hard to mess that up. If you remove fuel pump, you will see walls inside, so sock has to go in facing one side otherwise it won't go in. It'll take like 5 min to take the pump out, so you better open and see what's going on.

I love this write up. Makes the fuel pump swap look simple.Great write up

hey!i check the stickys and i coulndt see the pix therebut i can still see them here so im saved thanks!

Great write up!I went to do mine just now and notice 2 wires that had came lose/broken off.What are these for?..the car's been running fine, it just sputters between 2-3 sometimes. I thought maybe the pump was going out. Can anyone help?

Tried to find an answer to this one but I came up with nothing...anyone?

following the picture, looks like the first one broken is the ground to the fuel pump and the other has something to do with the fuel gauge float assembly is your fuel gauge working properly?

2.4Loflove wrote:following the picture, looks like the first one broken is the ground to the fuel pump and the other has something to do with the fuel gauge float assembly is your fuel gauge working properly?

yea, my gas gauge wasn't working at all at the time.But anyways, I went to the junk yard later that day replaced theentire assembly. All is fine now.

The entire fuel pump assembly or just the wires?