S14 CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENT? CAN YOU ADJUST THE PEDAL TO WHERE IT ENGAGES ???

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-RENO-
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Car: S13 & S14

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CAN YOU ADJUST THE PEDAL TO WHERE IT ENGAGES THE CLUTCH?

If so can someone please help me and tell me how to do this??



Jasong
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I have an s13 but it should be the same. The rod that comes through the firewall from the clutch cylider is attached to the clutch pedal. On the end of the rod is a nut. By adjusting the nut it either legthens the rod or shortens it thereby adjusting how far the pedal is pushed in before engaging the clutch. The manual I think says that the clevis pin needs to be able to spin freely but I didn't like where it engaged on mine so I put a couple of extra turns on it.

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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A s14 is much different. What you gotta do is loosen the 2 bolts that hold your master cylinder nearly all the way out, you dont have to take the bolts off. Next, go to your pedal and at the top of it you will see a goldish fork with a rod thing that goes through it. At the end of that rod you will see a little pin. Pry off that pin with a flathead screwdriver, then push out the rod that connects the fork to the pedal. Now the pedal is separate from your master cylinder rod. There is a little brass bushing in there that will probably fall out when you start moving the fork. Next, you can move the fork down and spin in, as it is connected to the master cylinder rod with threads. That is how you adjust where your clutch engages. Spin the fork out, and it will engage closer to the top, in and it will be closer to the floor. It might take you doing this a few times to get the pedal where you want it, but its well worth it when you do. If you move it to close to the floor your pedal spring wont be able to push the pedal all the way back up to the stopper, so dont try to turn it in to much. After you adjust it, you put the bushing back in the little hole in the pedal, move the fork over the hole and put the rod/pin back in. Its kinda a pain to get the bushing aligned with the rod, and be careful not to bend the bushing its brass and the ends are thin. Put the pin back in the rod and your good to go .

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s14kouki
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Car: 1998 240SX SE

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^^um i dunno what kind of S14 you were working on but the adjustment is the same as the S13. There is rod coming out of the master cylinder connects to the pedal. That rod has a 12mm nut, just loosen that and twist the rod out(CCW) to move the pedal engagement lower, or twist the rod in(CW) to higher the engagement.

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-RENO-
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Car: S13 & S14

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Well how do you know the difference between an S13 and S14 master cylinder because I did a auto to manual swap so it is not the factory manual.???????????????????

Jasong
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They should be one and the same. And I did have an error on my post. Do what s14kouki said,loosen the nut and turn the rod then tighten the nut once it's adjusted right.

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s14kouki
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Car: 1998 240SX SE

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The master cylinders are different as far as i know, the S14 master cylinder has a shorter back rubber section(an inch or so long), the S13s is a bit longer, like 2 inches long. From my experience, they are different, but i could be wrong. Maybe single cams have different master cylinders. Just make sure you get the right pedal for the chassis, because that can completly screw your pedal feel. Trust me i went through it, not fun, not cheap.

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480sx
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Im working on the s14 in my garage.. So, your telling me that there are two different types of pedal assembly's for the s14? Here, check it out -->

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-RENO-
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Car: S13 & S14

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480sx wrote:Im working on the s14 in my garage.. So, your telling me that there are two different types of pedal assembly's for the s14? Here, check it out -->
So is that nut right there on that bolt that connects to the master cylinder is the one I need to turn so it goes more towards the master cylinder?


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s14kouki
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Car: 1998 240SX SE

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i dont know where you got i said there were two types pedal assembles for the S14, but i said the adjustment procedure is the same between s13 and s14, and that there pedals and master cylinders are diffrent between s13 and s14. You just made adjusting the clutch pedal a lot harder than it had to be.



First off loosen the bolt ii circled in red, then you will see that what i have circled in black is not completly smooth but has grooves in it, the grooves are there for gripping the rod with a set of pylers or something.

The part i have circled in blue is threaded, when you use the pylers to twist the rod it will either twist into the fork, putting more of the rod(threaded section) on the inside of the fork, or thread out, putting more of the threads outside the fork, towards the master cylinder.

Putting more threads on the outside, toward the master cylinder makes the clutch pedal put pressure on the MC, essentially pushing on the clutch pedal slightly, making the engagement point higher on the pedal, because in a sense you have already pushed on the pedal a bit and vice versa.

simple enough right?

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480sx
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Ohh lmao i wouldnt have thought that rod would spin freely in the master cylinder. I guess thats kinda nice to know, after iv changed the pedal around eh, 5-7 times now ^^.

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TougeSlide
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Car: Sr powered 240sx

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480sx wrote:Im working on the s14 in my garage.. So, your telling me that there are two different types of pedal assembly's for the s14? Here, check it out -->
man, i know this must have been a pain in the ***.

its hard enough working up in there, let alone getting a camera in there too...how you got a decent picture ill never know.

next time, wedge a few tenis balls in there too, just for fun lol


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