As for the Z32 fuel filter, I will crash this myth really quick. Go to Nissan, buy a fuel filter. Guess what you just bought, a 240sx fuel filter.....oh, wait, a 300zx fuel filter.....um, uh oh, wait again.....this fits the Xterra, Pathfinder, Supercharged Xterra..........Frontier???!!!! So, as you see, they are all the same. If your fuel filter is causing your fuel pressure to drop, then it is EXTREMELY, RIDICULOUSLY, INSANELY dirty, and you have way more problems then a bad filter. Id bet on sugar in the tank, or a pissed off ex-girlfriend, or both!

Yeah, I know, haventy even really finished this one yet, but here goes.

So I have aquired yet another VQ35DE (RWD) block. Beside it, I have a VQ40DE engine. Hmmmm, wonder how much work it will be to mill the VQ35DE to accept the 10mm thicker crank from the VQ40? Then, how much work will it it be find the correct pistons and rods to stick in there? And after that is figured out, do I put the cylander heads I have on it...not just regular cylander heads, but the ones with both Intake and Exhaust valve timing control? Or, do I just buy VQ37HR cylander heads and use those (complete with cams, valves, etc. minus lift control motor is $599).

So Im thinking about it. If I do actually get to keep the heads I was just talking about (2006 M/T 350Z heads), I will probably build this engine. Im thinking 13:1, 4.0L with complete variable cam timing. That should be good for another 100 HP over what I have now. Just a thaught. I guess I have alot of pictures to take for you guys.

Oh, and before you build your VQ motor, take it to the machine shop and have them STRAIGHT bore the cylander walls to remove the taper. Trust me, while the taper helps seal the rings up top, it causes oil consumption, and that blows (no pun intended).

I am trying to get around to taking pictures of the car in a good setting. I also have to buy another hood. We are extending the stock hood about 3" and making the hump a shaker, like on the old hot rods. The front bumper has not recieved any work yet, so I am seriously looking rough right now. I even went as far as to write "BEATER?" on the hood.

Later all!

I thought we were putting that in my Z33? BTW nice fish last weekend

gregfarz78@gmail.com

Nothing to crazy wanna be able to drive it on the street on a daily basis. This build will use the complete stock engine harness/ecu etc. Thanks for reading and have a nice day. SGT CLARK

For the hood, why not use a NISMO 350Z style? It looks extremely good on the 350Z, almost like a completely different car. I'm sure the 240sx can take that hood after some chopping and welding.

Stock Z Hood

NISMO Z

Here's is my current plan. Please tell me if something is off or if there is a better solution.

VQ30DE from Maxima or Altima
- Chose this for 1) Price is cheap 2) Will fit under stock spec hood since the engine is shorter 3) ECU management is easier.

350Z / G35 6 Speed Manual or Frontier / Xterra 2WD 6 Speed Manual. Also considering PathFinder 5 Speed Manual.

Using Modified S13 Driveshaft to aftermarket Torsen LSD in S13 pumpkin.
- Chose this to keep as much stock parts as possible since S13 driveshaft would be much cheaper than 350Z driveshaft, etc. Will be using an Aluminum shaft.

Increase the compression of the engine to 11:1 like Honda S2000 so that it can only run on either 93 gas or E85. Reprogram the stock Maxima ECU to use the new fuel.
- I believe in optimizing the engine to make as much power as possible is the best way to increase fuel economy. (without paying for the VVT)

Here are a few questions I want to ask
- Is the VQ30DE shorter than VQ35DE? By how much? I'm trying to make it fit under stock hood.

- Can I fit a FWD VQ30DE in the S13 Chassis by welding S13 engine mount and VQ30DE FWD engine mount together?

- Can I fit a PathFinder intake on the Maxima VQ30DE head? I find that PathFinder intake manifold design makes a lot more sense than G35/350Z design.

- I will be making a custom intake piping by using custom individual runners all the way to the throttle body. Placing the throttle body right after the air filter. I am under impression that having extra long runners would increase low-end torque.

- Can I use 2000 Maxima Flywheel with 350Z / G35 / Frontier / Xterra / PathFinder Transmission? I believe parts for Maxima are cheaper even if aftermarket.

- Is it very expensive to buy gears for transmission? I plan to rebuild the transmission so that the 6th (or the 5th on 5 Speed) will be extra-long and I can save gas on highway and cruise.

- What kind of stuff should I expect to interface 2000 model Maxima ECU to S13 cluster? I see that interfacing with S13 cluster to 350Z ECU having a lot of things not working. How different is it to connect to a Manual normal cluster from connecting to a Manual HUD cluster?

- Your engine had the bores polished. I read the Nissan had them micro-finished (whatever that is). Would it not defeat the original Nissan work?

- The new HR pistons you bought had the skirt surface made smaller for lower friction. Can I achieve the same by cuttin sides off older design skirts?

- The HR rod is claimed to do better rpm even though it is supposed to be longer. Can I put and HR rod into VQ30DE? Will it be too long? Will I need to change bearings and crank shaft?

Thank you.

Modified by Soravia at 7:42 PM 3/23/2008

you can buy individual gears but its going to be expensive

5speed is not worth it

I recommend against a TORSEN LSD, a fresh VLSD would be perfect for auto-x and drag, or a welded diff for drag and drift.

extra long intake runners do increase low end torque but does not help top end. it would be more advantageous for you to just modify a maxima intake.

as far as clusters go, you can wire it allot of stuff up, but it would be easier for you to just use a maxima cluster, or even an R32 skyline cluster

torsen lsd is good if you don't make allot of hp, or actually race aggressively
I have a friend that drifts a miata and he said he broke a tlsd in auto-x and is a common out come.

if your going to make a completely custom setup and take the time to tune it right, then you should be fine. but nissan put LOTS of R&D into this motor and its components. There is a LOT of math behind intake and getting the most of of it. Harmonics, frequencies, velocity over volume. The best would be 6 throttle bodies right off the head with runners going to it IMO

from my understanding the difference between the VQ30 and the 35 is bore and stroke, think about it if the block hight was different and the head hight was different, how can you frakenstien the crap out of these? you can use a 35 intake on a 30, you can use exhaust manifolds. you can switch cams. you can use 30 timing on a 35 with minor modifications. I migh be wrong though

I read on Wiki that VQ30DE and VQ35DE have same bore with shorter stroke on VQ30DE. So I assumed that overall height would be lower. If not I'll have to make a shallow oil pan and lower mounts.

If you use the G35 "fuse box" you will be using the IPDM (Intellegent Power Distribution Module). And that will cause more codes for you. You should pretty much install the entire harness from a G to your car. By having an IPDM, you will be completing the CAN system circuit. The IPDM and the ECM are "terminating points" for the CAN system. They both have 120 ohm resistors in them. By leaving one or the other out of the circuit, many DTC's will not be set, as they can not be CONFIRMED. Dont think you can just stick a 120 resistor in the CAN lines anywhere either, this will cause even more trouble.
Since your running an Automatic, you will DEFINATELY need the ABS control unit (housed in the ABS unit). This will need to be hooked up and working properly, complete with wheel speed sensors and all. Since it is from an Infiniti, it will also have VDC, which again, will need to be hooked up. So, as you see, you should just use the entire G35 wiring harnesses. THe wheel sensors can be added to your diff in the rear (use a 350Z or non turbo 300ZX diff) and the front wheel sensor rings can be acquired from an S14 with ABS.

You may need to email me directly (jspec_direct@yahoo.com) for more help. Your project is big.

Also, dont go 8.5:1 for the pistons. That is old school and too low. Todays systems are able to make faster adjustements to fuel and timing. I'd use the pistons from a pathfinder or even regular maxima pistons (and I have a spare set, if you want them). They are either 9.5:1 (?) or 10:1 (maxima).
That will reduce spool time, reduce turbo size and increase low end grunt while maintaining off boost power, gas mileage and lets not forget, easy start up! 8.5:1 is more for 800+ hp. The stock pistons and rods can easily make 450 hp on 8-10 pounds of boost.

No, VQ35 pistons will not fit. The bore is different. I believe a VQ30 is 93mm and the VO35 is 95mm. The engine itself is not shorter. The manifolds will not swap without fabrication. The motor mounts will need to be custom as will the trans mount.

Installing a long 6th/5th gear will give you better gas mileage, unfortunately there are none available that will benefit you. I'd use a 350Z diff. It comes open or LSD with either a 3.3 or 3.5 something ratio (depending on model it came from).

I would not attempt a manifold unless you have a flow bench.

TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR OWN INTAKE MANIFOLD:

1) It should have a plenum no smaller than 33% of the total displacement of the engine.

2) Valve timing, depth and size all affect port sizing.

3) Port sizing affects port velocity in all rpm ranges.

4) Port velocity affects torque and HP directly.

5) Short runners need to be matched to the amount of CFM's flowing through the cylander head, along with swirl patterns of that head, size of cam, and INTENDED rpm peak numbers placement (both torque and HP).

6) Long runners need to be matched the same, and will increase low end grunt at the expense of high end HP and torque.

With the tunning of todays computers and the great flow characteristics of the VO, why would you want to use long runners? Remember, HP is directly related to torque and RPM. More torque, more RPM equals more HP.

Also, if you make runners too long, you loose the port velocity exchange from cylander to cylander. This causes fuel to puddle at idle, causes dramatic power loss and pretty much just sucks all around for fuel economy.

The Pathfinder intake you are mentioning is not simply a long runner intake. Underneath the plenum, near the throttle body, it connectes to the lower manifold. Inside the upper manifold, it has butterfly plates which open durring certain engine operations. Basically, once the engine reaches higher rpms, the plates open, redirected the air from the longer runners down the shorter ones. This moves the torque curve higher and increases HP, giving it the ability to pull like a V8 at low rpms, and cruise like a 4 banger at high rpm....and, even then, pull a load.

You can use a 2000 maxima flywheel on a VQ35, but I am not sure the dowel in that flywheel places the crank positioning sensor pickup in the correct location for the ECM to properly monitor ignition timing.

I wouldnt try cutting down the skirts on your pistons. The HR pistons you pictured, are what I have in my engine. They are designed that way, not simply cropped. A machine shop may be able to do this for you, but its pretty pricey.

Finally, THE ONLY THING FROM THE HR THAT CAN BE USED IN A VQ35DE is the pistons!!!!! The rods are longer to accomodate a taller deck height (20mm taller). The HR egnine is a 4.0L block (same as pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier) with different heads, stroke and pistons.

The crank cannot be used as it is 10mm thicker than the DE model. Thicker means cutting up the block to accept the iron inserts for the bearings, not worth it. I will battle this when I put the 4.0L crank in my VQ35DE block. The reason for the longer rods is to place the pistons farther from the crank. When this is done, this decreases wrist pin angle, which increases the amount of rpms it can produce.

Sticking HR rods in your VQ30 will push the pistons right though the valves and out the valve covers. It'll never turn over once before damage is done. You may be able to bolt VQ30 heads on a VQ35 block to achieve higher compression, but you will have to have the pistons clearanced for this. And again, Im not even sure that will work!!!

I'm glad you've thought of all this stuff, its alot to ask, but I wouldnt get that deep into it. You'll spend way more money then you want and after changing that much stuff, it will be difficult to achieve any kind of reasonable driveability.

Also, the VO35 makes peak torque below 2000 rpm and carries it (almost completely flat) through to redline!!! This is far beyond any domestic engine performance numbers EVER! At the other end of the scale, HP tops at near the top of the RPM scale, again great, because there is where it should be.

I think I will go with the PathFinder manifold. It seems to have the low-end torque design that I want for towing my track S13 with the V6 S13. (Yes I'm going to have two S13)

As for getting higer compression out of the VQ30DE. What should I do on a small budget? Will the stock Maxima ECU take to reprogramming for higher octane fuel?

i was looking at the pathfinder from 2001 +
or z32 300zx radiator

but I don't know if they will fit or not

you should be fine at 500wHP so long as ECU is tuned properly. I'd go with piggy back. Most aftermarket ECU are not going to make use of all the features.

8.5:1 are just too low. Nissans have two different methods of distributing fuel to the cylanders, one, is durring crank up and certain high rpm applications, where the ECM fires all the injectors at the same time. The second is durring idle and normal driving, where each injector fires with its corresponding cylander. So, by changing to 8.5:1 pistons, you'll have a hard time starting in cold weather, not to mention spend alot of time getting the "off boost" driveability right.

I'd go with a piggy back. Nissan engineers have spent more money and time on getting our cars to run as smooth and reliable as possible, along with keeping consitency in mind. No tuner, I dont care who he is, can match what the factory ECM can do. I'm not saying that there arent really good tuners out there, but I will say that none of them have the means to create the maps inside a Nissan ECM. I know a few who propbably could, given the right equipment, but its just not available.

To mix those two paragraphs together. If any of you have seen the start up video of my high compression engine, its is not only a testament to what I built, but to Nissan engineers for the work they have done on these ECMs. I bet noone knew that the gas in my car at that time was over 12 months old, 87 octane!!!! This means that the Nissan ECM started a 12:1 engine, with partially burning fuel, no completed exhaust and the cylander walls were on a fresh hone. It sat down and idled perfect the first time!!! I think that is just stupid amazing!!!!! I cant say enough about the japaneese engineers!

Go for 9.5:1 or maybe just 10:1. You'll make the power easier without requiring as much turbo. The stock internals can handle it, but be safe and put some beefier rods in. Sounds like your planning on having a really nice ride man, cant wait to see it!

Seems like reducing piston's skirt friction isn't the only thing making low friction in HR. The long rod seems to play a good role in it.
Is that why you're planning to use a 4.0L block instead of a block from 350Z? To get higher RPM out of same displacement?

The stock 240SX radiator works fine. I installed a brand new Nissan unit to my car durring the swap, and haven't had any over temp problems with it, even at the drag strip. If your worried, get a fluidine or koyo racing unit. I plan to upgrade to one of those as well. The piping is easy with the stock KA style radiator. The top pipe is in the correct spot. The bottom just needs to be plumbed over to the thermostat. I made a small bracket on the drivers radiator brace (the tension rod connects to it) to hold up the hose on that side, heading up to the thermostat.

Pathfinder, G, Z, Maxima, Altima, etc will not fit the 240sx. Sorry, but I already tried those. Big waiste of time.

I am doing the opposite. I am using a shorter block with a longer crank. This produces more torque, but reduces top RPMs. If I wanted to stay with 3.5 liters, I'd just get a HR bottom end. Yes, my pistons will have more angles to deal with. Not, its not as big a deal as you'ld think. In all honesty, there shouldnt be much difference in drag between that and a 3.5. Remember, what we are talking about is what oil companies all "claim" their oil can help with.

I'm just curious, why are all the piston side skirts flat continuous surfaces on the sides? Why are there no dimples or grooves or drilled holes? Wouldn't that reduce friction while maintaining the coverage? Or is there issues with oil pockets if that is done to a piston side?

I'm trying to see why a Honda can go to 7,800 rpm and make peak HP there while a Nissan engine usually tops out at 5,500 rpm or 6,500 rpm.

Modified by Soravia at 10:19 PM 3/26/2008

Torque and HP goes up very well. ^__^

2001 Nissan Frontier SE 4x4 2''lift (32/11.50 BFG AT)

91 s13 s15conversion SR20det (SOLD!)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/587205

I emailed you at ask@nissandoctor, but I noticed you said you haven't checked it much. Looking for a price on doing the wiring conversion stuff if I provide the harness and ecm (and hopfully the other modules that are needed). Also and price on motor mounts and the shifter adapter mount. My email is onetightnismo240@juno.com.

Thanks in advance!
Bryan

'92 240sx FB - Work Equips, Origin Stream kit, VLSD, Z Brakes/BMC, and suspension out the WAZOO!!! Oh yeah, and a bone stock 245k mile KA24DE... ;-)

P.S. It's still now low enough.

Will a 95-2001 Maxima ECU work with HUD (auto) or OEM M/T ECU from S13 240SX? What modifications will I need?

Modified by Soravia at 2:46 PM 4/5/2008

Will $80 ebay 350Z oil pan do the work?

so unless you want to take the time and money to make sure its perfectly level its a waste of cash

you need a rwd upper pan

This is a video of a swap similar to what I'm planning for. I thought I was the only cheap bastard around. :P
http://videos.streetfire.net/v...7.htm
Then again, that car has a lot of spacial parts and work, enough to race in GT class.

What is the 'Dual Runner' on the 2000-2001 Maxima VQ30DE intake opposed to 95-99 VQ30DE intake? Does it give more power by being larger? I'm thinking about modifying a Maxima intake instead of Pathfinder intake to save money.