distributor removal must be at TDC?

[komete]

Hi all, well I'm finally getting rid of my engine rattle. I'm stuck at my distributor removel. Does it have to be at TDC to remove it? I've done everything short of lifting the car trying to get it off.

I've marked every thing and was going to just put every thing back exactly how It was instead of puttng it at TDC. Acording to pictures though it looks like I am at TDC. SO how do I get this bish off. and I did remove the 2 bolts.

Thanks

[DjPantsSpecR]

no, it can be anywhere.

it has helical gears so i can only assume you are twisting it while pulling it out right?

i had one so bad on a junk motor i have, that while trying to remove it, it broke at the base where the shaft meets the bottom of the base. if your motor is exceptionally dirty or you dont maintain it well, nastiness can build up between the walls and the shaft preventing it from coming out.

i just shake it a little while twisting back and forth while pulling it out, sounds sexy doesnt it.

the rotor should twist automatically while you are doing this, but you should be worthing the shaft clockwise and counter clockwise while pulling out

[Silvia007]

First and for most, I'm sure you already have but make sure the bolts are off. If they are, you can twist the distributor back and forth like if you were adjusting the timming. Keep doing so while pulling on it. Once it's out. You're gonna have to take off the valve cover and set the cam sprokets to the timming chain and have the crank and TDC. Similar to that of the SR20DET, go to http://www.srswap.com and look up the SR20DET FAQ. Setting the timming on the KA24DET is basically the same as the SR20DET's.

[DjPantsSpecR]

ha, beat you too it st paul.... what about KA24DEs? i'm just screwin with ya

you should definately have the motor set to TDC for putting everything back in, it would be a good idea to pull off that valve cover, because youre going to have to anyways, and make sure the crank pointer is pointing to the second to last mark on the crank pulley

at this point the first cyl's cam lobes should be facing away from each other, and identical to the position of the cam lobes on the sticky in the KA section of this forum

Silvia007, can i touch your car?

[komete]

Well so far I've got it about a quater inch off. THe engine did go through a rough patch with an oil leak and ran low on oil a couple of times. So I'm guessing there is some build up there.

I was thrying to pull it streight out and I tried wobbling it off. In the morning I'll put some more elbow grease into it and give it a go again.

There is no doubt my engine is just filthy. I think if I were to put up a picture of what it looks like under the valve cover a local Nico member would shoot me.

[OldmanPurdy]

Mine was though too but if you still have trouble look at the back of the distrubitor where it connects to the block, there is a small notch where you can wedge a flathead screwdriver in and twist it to get some leverage. Of course depending on the grease buildup situation you may not find it.

[Silvia007]

Wow, after all this time I just noticed you're from BP. Yeah I know you beat me to it by a few seconds. About touching my car... we'll see.

Anway, Just work it. It'll come off. Seems this is the first time you are taking it out. If it is so, it's suppose to be tough I guess.

[komete]

Well I got the bish off but broke it in the process A Nico member is selling me a used one he has for a good price.

I'll post a pic of the broken one. One thing for sure now I'm going to have to figure putting things at TDC. Probably be a week before I get my part though. In the meentime I have to drive my wives SLow Camry..

[Red coupe]

putting things back at TDC isnt too hard, I didnt even mark mine last time I pulled it, just line the rotor up so its a little before were it should be for TDC because as you put it in it twists while the gears mesh. then you just make sure the rotor is pointing tword the first cylinder spark plug wire, IF you get it close enough it will start, and you can use the timing gun to set it from there.

[komete]

Well my ebay Distributor finnaly came in. THe one from the nicco member turned out to be bad so I'm glad he checked before he sent it in. I got a late start and just put the car at TDC. Pretty dang simple to do. Don't know why I was stresseing over it. Tomorrow I'll put the distributer on and give it a whirl. INcase anyone searches for TDC and comes acros this thread I thought I would put a picture of a car at TDC from this thread. zerothread?id=105618

[DjPantsSpecR]

did you make sure that the cams on the first lobe are pointing away from each other? because you can be on the wrong TDC....

[Red coupe]

you can open the oil filler cap and see the cyl. 1 exhaust lobe with a flash light on the DE...should be point outward,

[komete]

Lobes were pointing apart. I put in the new distributer but now the engine is running real ruff and won't stay on. Some back fireing also. I'm guessing timming. I have a timming light are there any guides on how to set the timming?

[komete]

Well I got it to start but there is a serious rattleing noise comming from it. Also I may ask this in anouther section but when I remove the oil cap with the engine on a lot of air comes out. Is that right?

[DjPantsSpecR]

a lot of air, and a lot of oil droplets. yep its all normal. that air is usually directed to the intake, it prevents the crankcase from being pressurized

the rattling noise could be many things. how long did it do it for? did you wait for the tensioners to become pressurized with oil? is there enough oil in the car. what about chain guides. did you remove any guides and not tighten them properly. also is there is a lot of slack in the chain it will be hitting th top of the valve cover if that upper guide is removed. you can visially see that by removing the valve cover. it could be alot of things, but iot sounds like you are chugging away so just let us know when you learn something new.

did you get the motor timed yet too?

[komete]

Well it's rattleing like crazy.. Sound like an old desil engine. The sound goes away over 2k RPM's There was some slack in the chain So maybe it's just hitting the top of the valve cover. But I thought I could remove the top one.. Am I wrong? It drives great btw and I just changed the oil.

a lot of air, and a lot of oil droplets. yep its all normal. that air is usually directed to the intake, it prevents the crankcase from being pressurized

the rattling noise could be many things. how long did it do it for? did you wait for the tensioners to become pressurized with oil? is there enough oil in the car. what about chain guides. did you remove any guides and not tighten them properly. also is there is a lot of slack in the chain it will be hitting th top of the valve cover if that upper guide is removed. you can visially see that by removing the valve cover. it could be alot of things, but iot sounds like you are chugging away so just let us know when you learn something new.

did you get the motor timed yet too?

[Red coupe]

There is a reasonable amount of clearance though not alot...I would think that you would need to be loose enough to feel iffy if it had enough slack to hit the top of the valve cover.

I THINK the official word from Nissan was the top guide is useless and prone to failure, and could be removed, but I don't know that they actually mentioned the side one. Alot of people on here remove the side one as well, with no problems so you should be ok If you took it off too...Ill check and see if I can look up the TSP on Tues.

Maybe you have a leaking tensioner? perhaps at idle and lower RPMs it leaks enough to let the chain rattle but once it get more oil it can maintain enough pressure?

[komete]

Good points, I think tomorrow I'm going to remove the valve cover to look for scratches on the valve cover. See what happens I guess

[DjPantsSpecR]

i was trying to imply it was the tensioner, but i thought he had replaced it. looking back i didnt read anything he replaced. so i agree entirely it is the tensioner, and yes your should remove the upper guide

on three of my four KAs the top tensioner has broke.

and two of my KAs have visible damage on the top of the vlave cover from the chain

[komete]

I'll order a new tensioner. I'm going to put the upper guide back in untill it comes in. I did take it out and wd 40 it down but it still felt a little stiff. I just thought when the oil pressure would build up it would spring more. I guess it's just gone bad. The upper guide did show some wear but not much at all. I'll post tomorrow with an update on how things go.

i was trying to imply it was the tensioner, but i thought he had replaced it. looking back i didnt read anything he replaced. so i agree entirely it is the tensioner, and yes your should remove the upper guide

on three of my four KAs the top tensioner has broke.

and two of my KAs have visible damage on the top of the vlave cover from the chain

[komete]

Well whats weird is that when the engine was cold and I started it today it didn't make no noise and slowly as it warmed up it started. I guess it's time to take the vavle cover off again.

[komete]

nope it isn't the guids. I'm starting to think I drop something in the engine.. It like a slapping noise almost.

[Red coupe]

Ill check and see if I can look up the TSP on Tues.

WEll I know you found your problem but for future searches and what not I just checked the TSB records and found this:

98-092 11/15/1998 Engine - New Timing Chain/Front Cover Service Procedure

NOTE :The two chain guides for the upper timing chain have been deleted. Discard the two chain guides and their bolts during any service to the timing chain

Looks like both upper chain guids are to be removed...

[komete]

Yep I've found my problem. My bottom guide is broken.. Going to do a whole timming chain change.

[Red coupe]

yeha I saw your other post good luck