Terminal 31- light green with red tracer - 5.12 volts DC
Terminal 34-white with blue tracer -.324 volts DC (idling)
Terminal 35 - black -.005 - .002 sporadic volts DC

ECU - Light green with red tracer - 5.12 volts DC

TPS -plugged in, key on.
0 volts at rear of wire leads.

receptacle leading to TPS plug -
plug leading to green/red .354 to .400 volts DC
both other leads - .250 -.350 volts DC

Idles rough when it will run.

.327 volts, no accelerator

Climbs to 2.8 volts when accelerator depressed, also heard a buzzing sound from the engine as the accelerator went down slowly, stopped when the accelerator was fully depressed. 09quickly

Black wire - .0011 volts

White wire - starts at .3 range, flirts with 4.0, but is sporadic, hangs mostly with the 3.4 - 3.6 range, nothing steady. 09quickly.

New TPS is on, spring loaded cam is in place with a little bit of tension. 5.2 volts on new connection with key on, not running. I assume adjusting the TPS is accomplished by moving it in place and adjusting the spring load on the cam inside.

Will not run, starts with difficulty, must hold accelerator at 2000 rpm or more to get it to run smoothly. Otherwise, sounds like it is firing on two cylinders. Can not adjust the TPS because it will not idle.

ECU code - 34 Detonation sensor circuit. Where is this one?

Also, in my haste to pull the upper radiator hose to access the TPS, I spilled anti-freeze into the throttle body chamber. Don't know how much, not sure if this is causing my starting and firing problem. This will probably lead to catalytic converter issues if it is too much, but I guess that can be addressed later.

The knock sensor code may have been set when you removed the tps. There is a 2 wire connector near the front of the cyl head right above the water inlet. If you disconnected that it could of been what set the code. Either that or the connection is corroded similar to the TPS connector.

Car started fine (cold), and as it warmed up, a miss developed, getting more severe. As the rpm's went down to 1,000 rpm, an occasional miss, drop to 975 rpm, severe miss. Needs accelerator to smooth engine out.
2,500 rpm smoothes everything out. At operating temp., 1,300 rpm is smooth, but needs accelerator. Letting off accelerator allows engine to lug, then stall. Will not idle on its own at operating temperature.

The replacement TPS appears to have the identical connector as the old, but will not plug all the way into the receptacle on the engine like the original one did. It will not go all the way to the plastic lock on the receiving receptacle. I assume good contact, because 1) No longer have the O/D light flashing and 2) great improvement over how it ran before (initially) when I finally got it started again. After attempting O/D self-diagnosis, checked the ECU.....55's. What about dirty fuel filter or dirt in the fuel pick-up in the tank? Am I considering "What if's" in the wrong area? 09quickly

The TPS connector: unplug it and make sure you dont have 2 rubber seals in there. There should only be one rubber seal in there. If the OD light is off you are likely correct that the connection is there. Your car should be shifting ok at this point. Get the vaccum problem resolved. It has to be where you were working as it wasent a problem before. You had to have knocked something loose unknowingly in that area.

It sounds like you did not try to run the tranny through the gears manually after you fixed the shifter issue. Putting the shifter into the 1 position should eliminate any electrical issues are it should be running in pure hydraulic mode. This is not the case with all manufacturers, but I am pretty sure Nissan did this.

Also, have you tried completely disconnecting the control harness from the tranny? This should also kick it into a hydraulic mode which will cause the shift points to be raised, but it will shift through the gears.

If the car fails to shift under hydraulic power, this is an indication of an internal fairlure of the transmission.

1995 240 that I don't have time to install my RB25 into

Jim, I would be suspect of your throttle gasket but honestly the way you just described the acceleration it sounds like an airflow problem, it did in the begining but I was basing the fact it didnt seem a problem initially so I went for hose leaks. Like I said there is like a 2 inch hose under that plastic tube that attaches to a baffle. That hose was my first thought cause it is big enough to cause severe maf reading problems. But you may have disturbed the airflow meter connection during the repair. SO unplug the airflow meter and see if your idle improves at all. Also look at the terminals and see if they have corrosion on them. Also take voltage readings off of it while its plugged in from the back of the terminals. You will need to gently pull back the rubber boot to gain access to the wires. You should see 3 voltages at idle. ~12v,~1.3v and less then .2v. If the lowest voltage wire is not less then .2v you need to add an additional ground. This is a pretty common problem on nissans. This will have nothing to do with your shift condition if it still exists ,I am unclear if that is still a problem or not. Did you get the TPS to plug in correctly?

The hose you are describing sounds like the one directly under the plastic tubing, next to the radiator, about the size of a radiator hose. THAT hose has small, visible cracks and splits in it, but what I was able to see is above the clamp. I did not look a the entire thing, I couldn't figure out where it leads to to be honest with you. Is it a b***h to deal with?

Are the Airflow Meter and the MAF one in the same? I know where the MAF is, and it appears a whole lot easier to work on than the TPS. Thanks for your continued guidance. 09quickly

Get a look at your airflow readings at idle. But I am also perplexed as to why the trans is not shifting and there not being a code in the trans system. Total control shut down is what causes it to get stuck in fail safe third gear. Make sure you got the TCM plugged back in and any other wires near the TCM. Since you cant get the OD light to flash an all good signal something must not be hooked up. Also check your fuses for any blown. Could of accidently blown one during testing.

Like I said, many other manufacturers have run that way. Nissan may not have, but when the tranny harness was unplugged from my 1992 auto it shifted through all the gears. Sure the shifts were harsh and always at higher rpms, but it still shifted. 95 Ford F-350, same deal.

Doesn't really matter though, best of luck to ya 09quickly

Fuses by the battery all look good, no obvious breaks in the metal bands.
Fuses under the dash also look good, I found the CONSULT plug....It looks mighty inviting... but Iwill forget about it for now.

You mentioned making sure I reconnected the TCU - I never disconnected it. I only removed it from its mounting point for access to the wires. It and my ECU and another little brass box that all mount in that little area are all laying on my passenger side floor still. Does having them mounted to the car frame complete a ground circuit maybe? 09quickly

The vacuum hose you mentioned last night is covered with oil and grease from my extremely bad oil leak (oil pan) I will attempt to look at the hose and the box it feeds into over the weekend.

No you dont have to have them attached to the body to function properly just as long as they are plugged in.

Unless you have a consult dont screw with the consult plug. There is nothing you can manually do with that.

That 2 in hose is not a vaccum hose it is an air baffle to quite down your intake system.
But if it develops a leak to atmosphere it will cause the car to run poor. However judgeing your maf voltage I would say you dont have any vaccum leaks cause it is registering higher then normal airflow through it.

Okay - voltage checks on the MAF - disconnected, idled to operating temp., connectors L to R (empty connector slot on the right): .005, .007, 14.04.
MAF connected : 1.134 -1.154 (Sporadic reading, would not settle in on one reading), .012, 14.07.

Also, I read something in the FAQ's about proper grounding of the entire system. I set my multimeter to ohms, and , car running, put a lead on the negative battery post, the other on an unpainted screw. ohms read 1.2 for the most part, but did jump sporadically, sometimes up toward 7. Any concerns? 09quickly

needs installing:
ksport coilovers
battle version rucas

Removing the oil pan will not give you access to the crankshaft seals. The seals can be replaced without removing the oil pan.
- to access the front seal, the front crank pulley needs to be removed.
- to access the rear seal, the tranny and the flywheel needs to be removed.