Completed the home brew transmission flush..

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elwesso
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So like the title says, i completed my first home brew transmission flush... Heres what I did.. Theres a thread about this too, its up to you to find it.. A little background: I check my transmission fluid very regularly and it was starting to look iffy.. I checked it while I was on my way home from Atlanta and noticed it was pretty much shot... One thing I learned from this is as soon as you notice it changing colors, CHANGE it because it goes south VERY fast!!!

Anywho, even my 4th gear was having a bit of minor slipping.. I thought to myself, this cant go on any longer, i gotta get some fresh fluid in there...

So, Q45tech said a while back ago that if you run the car at idle for exactly 2 minutes, then all the fluid in the pan will be replaced...

So heres what I did... I drove the car a little bit to get the transmission warmed up, then I drained the pan... Let it drain for a while and while its draining shift the transmission through all the gears... this releases a little bit more fluid... Once you drain the fluid completely, you simply put the drain back in, put about 3-4 quarts back into the car, and start/run the car for exactly 2 mintues....

I did this procedure 4 times... The first 2 times I added 3 quarts of ATF and the last 2 times I put in 4 quarts... I think the fluid may be a little bit high right now, but that shouldnt hurt anything, ill check it later and adjust as necessary....

The bottom line? I think this worked SUPRISINGLY well... better than I thought it would.. The first 2 drains the fluid looked pretty bad, and then the 3rd time it looked a little better.... I feel like I got a very good exchange... I didnt use M1, i just used valvoline conventional.. IMO its more important to change the fluid more often than it is to spend extra and go longer.... Ill probably do it again in one year and next time replace the filter and drop the pan (I didnt do it this time)...

Again, I was pleasantly surprised how well this worked... I used a total of 14 quarts of ATF.... Id recommend people do this, it was certainly a hell of a lot better than paying $100 + fluid for a mechanical flush.... I feel that if i got, at worst, a 80% exchange, then it was completely worth it... Kind of why I overfilled the transmission a little bit, I feel that running it overfilled might help dilute the extra bit of left over fluid.... I dont think that im hurting the transmission.... Unlike engines, there are no moving parts that could get in direct contact with the fluid and start mixing it up....


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FarFetched
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I wish there was a way to drain TQ. To much ATF will foam - which is no good!Get it to normal level.Cheers!

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elwesso
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How will it foam? It just sucks up what it needs? Im not asking this to be a arse, im asking because I dont know.. I fully intend on bringing the level back to normal.. however on many Qs ive seen the fluid is always a litlte bit high...

jrichardson
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Wes,

This is an interesting method of changing the ATF.

I have also heard (on any vehicle that has a transmission cooler) that one can undo the inlet side of the cooler, put it in some drain pain (large) then open the transmission fill tube/dispstick.

Start the car, ATF will start pouring out of the hose that is unconnected from the cooler, at the same time, you are pouring new ATF from the dipstick tube. What goes out (quantity) is what you put in. You shift through the gears with the engine on, brake on, until the color of the AFT goes from brown to red.

Then stop the engine, reconnect the hose to the cooler, recheck the oil level in via the dipstick, and you now have a flushed system.

My brother did this on one of his vehicles very successfully. I haven't had the guts to try this yet, but it does sound more like what they do at the "pay me $100" garage.

Thoughts?

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elwesso
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jrichardson wrote:Wes,

This is an interesting method of changing the ATF.

I have also heard (on any vehicle that has a transmission cooler) that one can undo the inlet side of the cooler, put it in some drain pain (large) then open the transmission fill tube/dispstick.

Start the car, ATF will start pouring out of the hose that is unconnected from the cooler, at the same time, you are pouring new ATF from the dipstick tube. What goes out (quantity) is what you put in. You shift through the gears with the engine on, brake on, until the color of the AFT goes from brown to red.

Then stop the engine, reconnect the hose to the cooler, recheck the oil level in via the dipstick, and you now have a flushed system.

My brother did this on one of his vehicles very successfully. I haven't had the guts to try this yet, but it does sound more like what they do at the "pay me $100" garage.

Thoughts?
Thats an interesting idea!!!!! I really like that idea, except I fear that your wasting more good ATF than with my method, as a very small percent of the fluid goes through the cooler circuit... Personally id start off by draining the pan, and then filling it with fresh fluid before starting that procedure.. OTherwise, i dont see why that wouldnt work.....

daegrigg
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Wes,

What about the screen filter? Should this be replaced or inspected.

Don

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The excess of fluid will create unwanted turbulences in TQ. Also it will spit excessive fluid out of breather hole (possible). Overfill creates unwanted pressure increase leaks of internal seals (possible input/output seal seepage). However it is not as bad as underfilling transmission (starvation Always check transmission when it is hot-hot (at least 15-20 min drive). Cheers!


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elwesso
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daegrigg wrote:Wes,

What about the screen filter? Should this be replaced or inspected.

Don
I replaced it in my old Q, but let me give you my honest opinion on that [flame suit engaged]... All the filter inside the transmission is a screen.. I busted mine open and after 130k there was nothing inside it.. not surprising because it can only filter out very large chunks... if said chunks exist, your transmission is toast.. My honest opinion is not to bother with the filter (or screen) and just take the pan off and clean it real good along with the magnet!

I know this will start a lot of controversy, but I just dont see the point in replacing a filter that is clean.. Its made of metal so it will not go rotten or get icky like other filters will over time.... if you really want to, you can take it out and back flush it with something (parts cleaner woudl be preferable), but like I said earlier, youll just find that its clean, and if its not, your transmission is on its way southward....

IMHO its much more important to make sure you have clean fluid and a clean pan than it is to replace things because you think its needed... Im running valvoline conventional.. 2 cases cost me $30!!! M1 is double that!! However im going to replace it every 12k or so, which is about every 1.5 years.. I probably should have taken the pan down but i was too lazy... The transmission is relatively new so i dont really think im doing any damage.....

FarFetched, thanks for the info! I think that may have bene my problem, because its not that high past the hatch marks.. Ill probably readjust the fluid level next week.. I dont drive the car during the week....

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elwesso wrote: as a very small percent of the fluid goes through the cooler circuit...
This is not true, FYI wes 100% of the fluid goes through the cooler circuit.

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Well ok, yes, EVENTUALLY all the fluid goes through the cooler.. but the cooler flow is very small compared to the flow through the transmission...That being said, i wouldnt be surprised that using the above method woudl still mix some old with new ATF...

DominickJ30
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This is the order of fluid flow in the trans.

1. Oil pump2. Torque Converter3. Cooler4. Planetary Sets5. Back to pan

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elwesso
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I think in the process that Ive just confused others any myself.. I agree with what your saying D...

The bottom line, is I feel slightly uncomfortable when I undo a hose and let fluid drain out... I get nervous... Hoses were not meant to be left unplugged!

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elwesso wrote:I think in the process that Ive just confused others any myself.. I agree with what your saying D...

The bottom line, is I feel slightly uncomfortable when I undo a hose and let fluid drain out... I get nervous... Hoses were not meant to be left unplugged!
I completely agree, I wouldnt do it myself this way either. There is really no accurate way of monitoring the amount the goes out or the amount that goes in.


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Chansen
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Hey Wes,I'm not a mechanic but I'm ex army and our humvees would leak trany and motor oil like crazy,all the time we would need to put oil in.humvees are great like that anyway one day we put extra trany oil in and less than 50miles down the road a trany hose blew.Just from my experiance I wouldnt gamble on the QJust thought that I should share my toublesBut thx for the info,I need to order a service manual soon cause my local dealer is a thief and need to start learning more bout my baby.But then again a humvee and Q are two diff monsters

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Thanks Chansen!!! BTW, email me and ill set you up with a FSM

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Chansen
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SWEET!!!

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elwesso wrote:Thanks Chansen!!! BTW, email me and ill set you up with a FSM
Don't forget the ton of TSB also!

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In my cars, I've installed a drain plug on the back end of the transmission pan. Every time I change the engine oil, I drain the transmission with very little mess. As was mentioned earlier, the transmission filter is nothing more than a screen. Only reason to really bring down the pan is to check for metal in it or on the magnet.

I've also done the cooler line method on occasion. I always measure what comes out and replace with equal amount of new fluid. Less messy in many ways. Cheers!

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Overfilling, according to the new owner of my old Q, was the reason why the car would almost stall when coming to a stop.

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brownq45 wrote: As was mentioned earlier, the transmission filter is nothing more than a screen. Only reason to really bring down the pan is to check for metal in it or on the magnet.
Presume you have cut it open and examined it under a microscope like Q45tech?

I think even Wes acknowledges the advantages of a proper mechanical exchange of the ATF over drain and fill. He definitely advocates the pan drop and filter replacement, now.

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The scientific thing about the BG machine is after hundreds of flushes you know good pressure reading from weak pressure readings and a good exchange time in minutes and seconds from a poor excessively long exchamge time.

Not mention the ease of examining [and taking samples in the white plastic cup to smell] during the chemical recirculation............the smell changes when it's done.

Many times you must go thru the entire processs twice if the flush interval is too long.

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Your right brian... I dont think that in ALL cases you need to REPLACE the filter, but I would at least clean it out. however, not everyone has access to a parts cleaner where this can be done effectively and easily.... For most its probably easier just to get a new one and slap it up in there...

you really dont need to inspect the screen under a microscope because it doesnt filter out microscopic particles....!!


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elwesso wrote:you really dont need to inspect the screen under a microscope because it doesnt filter out microscopic particles....!!
When Q45tech inspected a used filter under magnification, he found imbedded particles not visible on the surface to the naked eye.

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much,much,much more important to replace the external filter up near the radiator- as it traps finer particles than the screen,and if not serviced- goes into bypass ALLOWING the internal screen to fill with sediment

my experience with 182,000 miles of Me driving and maintaining MY q on its original transmission is as follows

exchange fluid every year with synthetic { mobil 1 or Redline D4}replaced screen at 114,000 miles for the first time{ no visible sediment at all}replaced external filter at aprox 150,000 mileswill replace internal screen again at 230,000 miles and examine screen and pan for sediment{ both were clean at 114,000 miles}

Based on all this,I feel annual fluid replacement and a operable external filter have allowed the screen and pan to remain clean

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fyi- the 97 e420 benz my wife drives has 242,000 miles on it with original,factory installed atf fluid and filter still in place,12,000 mile{every 6 month}motor oil changes using quaker state dino oil--- and still shifts as new and burns no oil.....go figure

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qship96 wrote:fyi- the 97 e420 benz my wife drives has 242,000 miles on it with original,factory installed atf fluid and filter still in place,12,000 mile{every 6 month}motor oil changes using quaker state dino oil--- and still shifts as new and burns no oil.....go figure
W210! Its a fluke!

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Not really fair to compare cherry blossoms to bratwurst.

The car you have is the car you have, if you get unhappy with spending try another brand and another and another.

Isn't it a miracle that the 2007 GM will now have a 5 year/100k power train warranty..........because the engine and transmission last so long NOW [?].

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qship96 wrote:fyi- the 97 e420 benz my wife drives has 242,000 miles on it with original,factory installed atf fluid and filter still in place,12,000 mile{every 6 month}motor oil changes using quaker state dino oil--- and still shifts as new and burns no oil.....go figure
This is amazing/frightening! Are you running an experiment? I'd be so tempted to change the ATF all the while knowing that it would almost CERTAINLY screw something up. I admire your restraint.

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qship96 wrote:fyi- the 97 e420 benz my wife drives has 242,000 miles on it with original,factory installed atf fluid and filter still in place,12,000 mile{every 6 month}motor oil changes using quaker state dino oil--- and still shifts as new and burns no oil.....go figure
Reminds me of the old story of Porsche owners never changing their oil, only adding to it. Worked great, until the engine blew or it needed a head job which was about every 80K on the air-cooled flat six.

Should be aware that MB holds more ATF and coolant, so bause is disguised longer. That's all. It still is occuring.
Modified by maxnix at 11:54 AM 9/11/2006

qship96
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actually the benz holds more coolant and motor oil than the q.... but less transmission fluid

lets face it,a q treated the same way would.........be dead by now!


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