Well I seafoamed my 92 s13 a month ago. I am currently stuck at work, 3rd shift, so here is a full DIY for you guys with all the answers.
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From my own experience, seafoam is a good stuff. Dont have the bottle with me now, but I think it is a 100% petrolium.

I got couple pictures, will post all of them later.

To seafoam your car:

1) use 33% on gas tank with 9-10 gallons of fuel. Cleans fuel injectors, fuel lines, removes moisture from fuel lines. Put it in gas tank at the gas station, then fill it with 9 gallons of fuel, so it can mix well. Just read the bottle for the normal mix ratio.

2) another 33% goes to your crankcase. so open your oil cap and pour it in. *WARNING: It thins out your oil. DRIVE FOR ABOUT 10 MILES, THEN CHANGE YOUR OIL. KABISH??

3) Rest 33% goes to the intake manifold. It cleans intake valves, cylinder, top of the piston, exhaust valves, etc. To do this, you have to use any vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold. In s13, brake booster line is perfect.

But, intake manifold is a bit tricky. It smokes like hell when it goes through the system.

So, pour 33% into a cup.

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Check valve in s13 is located in the middle against the firewall. DISCONNECT THE HOSE ON THE LEFT SIDE AND SUCK SEAFOAM THROUGH IT.

Modified by sanioll at 5:17 AM 7/18/2005

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So you start the engine, which will idle very unfriendly. Just block the hose with your finger a bit to help it.

Someone has to help you. Have a friend to sit in a car and keep rpms at 2000. Then suck the liquid in. Dont suck it all at once or you will kill the engine.

Modified by sanioll at 3:53 PM 7/18/2005

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right before I was done with the cup, i saw smoke coming out of the engine bay, confused I took my head out of the engine bay, and saw the whole damn garage up in the smoke. Lesson: DO IT OUTSIDE!!! AND DO IT AT NIGHTTIME, BECAUSE IT SMOKES REALLY BAD. RESPECT YOUR NEIGHBORS.

--wait ten minutes, start the car, drive off to highway and start really pushing it as hard as you can. Redline it couple times. Do Wide Open Throttle pulls. Drive for at least 20 minutes.

*heres a pic of smoke at idle.

Modified by sanioll at 5:48 AM 7/18/2005

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--it cleans the carbon buildup, which means your sparg plugs, oxygen sensor might be covered in dirt. Eventually all that crap will be burned off, but if it is really dirty, it might affect engine performance.

--highly recomended for forced induction engines. carbon buildup may cause hot spots inside the cylinder, thus creating pre-spark detonation.

--I seafoamed it twice, so 66% of the bottle was used.

--I had no side effects at all. Now engine idles better, and I enjoy revving it higher. Oh and also my gas mileage has improved too. From 19 mpg to 22mpg.

--so if you are worried about your plugs or O2 sensor getting dirty, just seafoam the intake manifold twice.

--once again, it smokes alot when you rev it up. when i took off whole neighboorhood was smoky. Just do it at night. Smoke will clear up after 5 minutes of running.

*NOTE: SEAFOAMING WAS PERFORMED ON A 114,000 KA24DE ENGINE/ 92 240SX SE. THIS IS JUST A GUIDE FOR YOU PEOPLE. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES CAUSED BY SEAFOMING YOUR ENGINE. SEAFOAM IS A GREAT PRODUCT AND I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT.

That's all; drive safe and remember that driving is a priviledge.

why didn't use 3 bottles? 1 for each section?

no, actually on the bottle it says, 1/3 for each part. Too much not recommended.

"only few people like you, take pieces of junk and turn them into beautiful love making machines." - sanioll
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99%

What did you do with the other 1%? J/K!

Bryan

'92 240sx FB - Work Equips, Origin Stream kit, VLSD, Z Brakes/BMC, and suspension out the WAZOO!!! Oh yeah, and a bone stock 245k mile KA24DE... ;-)

P.S. It's still now low enough.

and yes I can confirm about the draining of the oil, you not suppose to drive it, esepcailly not WOT

okay, 33.333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333...%

is that close enough?

wait I got a better one: lets just say 1% evaporates into the air while you're using it.

Modified by sanioll at 1:29 PM 7/18/2005

Quote, originally posted by Loveless »

sanioll, either you need to read the bottle again or I need to read it again: I am sure it said 1bottle for each section and yes I can confirm about the draining of the oil, you not suppose to drive it, esepcailly not WOT

well, I wrote this thread after seeing how other people do it. One guy left it in the crankcase for 500 miles or so, and had no problems, except burning oil, which was present before.

to put an end to the mystery, I've uploaded high resolution (2048X1536) pictures into members galery. Click on the picture to see bigger size and read the bottle. It doesn't say anything about how long you can keep it there.

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/...age=1

Hmm, it does not say that on the bottle. I've also used B12 Chemtool (very similar product), which tells you to immediately drain the oil after running it thru the crankcase. I just think it makes the most sense to drain it after letting the car run 5-10 minutes instead of driving around with oil that was dirtier than before. I can only imagine the amount of carbon, metallic particles/etc that are in the oil after using Seafoam. Driving around on said dirty oil just seems like a bad idea and goes against the point of doing it in the first place. Nissan dealerships use BG additives to do the same thing, they hook up a machine to the car, flush out all the gunk, and put in new oil. They just don't put in the BG additive and tell the customer to come back in another X amount of miles. I dunno, i just don't do that when i Seafoam my car.

I use Mobil 1 and engine is really clean, so there is no way I am putting anything in there.

When i put seafoam in the crankcase of my other s13, i just put a wee bit, since it was a very clean/well running engine, i don't think it needed a good 'dousing' however, the s13 i have now is in good shape, i'll seafoam it anyway with a little bit at a time to see how it does.

s13 #1... dead.

s13#2...
please paint me!!!!

Quote, originally posted by STEPz »

i have an ka24e (1990) where is the brake booster? i'm a little lost... i'm still a noob.. so any advice is appreciated!

welcome to NICO.

do a search for "FSM" download the one for your vehicle. Read the service manual and see pictures.

Look up brake master cylinder, and the line coming out of it that goes into your intake is the booster line.

P.S. Search button is on the upper right of this page.

another vote for sticky

Graphfixz Data & Web Design

KA-T why settle for anything less?

This write up really skims over the other two proceedures to be considered a full write up, especially with all the conversation about the method of crank case cleaning used. Please make it clear how to use it in the crank case, it seems to be the most argued spot to do it.

you can do it on any engine. oh yea, you dont have to just use the brake booster line. i fine its harder to use that line because its easier to kill engine. you can use any vacuum line going to the manifold

okay,

well simply add 1/3 of the bottle into your oil, and change your oil after 10 miles of regular driving. REGULAR DRIVING!!

*REGULAR DRIVING: Not revving past 3500 rpm, and not pressing the pedal to the metal.

last night me and my 2 friends used it on a 95 Geo Metro 1.0liter

we dumped a FULL can in the gas tank a FULL can in the crankcase and FULL can through the throttle body

ran fine then since we went kidna overkill with it we fried the plugs, got em raplced and it ran SO MUCH faster

before the car would barely touch 70 on a certain road (Plank Road) and last night with a passgner me and him went 84mph

The problem is, is that the Seafom bottle does not specify what to do once you pour it in the crankcase. But a good rule of thumb when compared to the procedure for other cleaners (like B12 Chemtool, and BG products) is to let it idle for 5-10min , shut down the engine, and drain the oil. Running it for 10 miles or driving around isn't going to clean it anymore than letting it idle thru for 5min, it will still make full circulation and do the job. Running fuels that have cleaning agents like Shell and Mobil and not running some piss 87octane will help maintain it until the next interval. But that's just my opinion.

I dunno so I would just as soon do an oil change afterwords and not risk it...
just do it right before you would change the oil anyways...