Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45?

Post by **thekawaii** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:56 pm

HelloI have 1991 Q45 calipers..I'm going to put it to my 240sx after I get brake disks and pads.Which Pad and Disks are good? Oem would be ok for hard braking??

Ps. I live in SoCal, no rain here, So i don't think i need drilled. Just need Slotted Disks.

Post by **Jeff Williams** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:07 pm

Everyone talks great about AXXIS pads, but they are expensive. As far as rotors are concerned, Powerstop or Brembo are the only way to go. The others are basically cheap knockoffs, and you have no guarantee on what you will be getting.

I would buy the best rotors I can get, and either go with OEM pads, or get the high dollar ones.

I am going to 300ZXtt rotors, calipers, and pads on Lola.

Is there any support on the 240 thread? I hear Q45 calipers are a big thing for the 240 guys.

Post by **thekawaii** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 4:24 pm

i found the price of OEM Disks were differnentwith active suspension disk was 50 dollar morei tought all 90~96 Q45 uses same size disk?+ i don't know what year's my calipers

Post by **Rex** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 4:41 pm

thekawaii wrote:i found the price of OEM Disks were differnentwith active suspension disk was 50 dollar morei tought all 90~96 Q45 uses same size disk?+ i don't know what year's my calipers

We discussed this the other day and weren't able to determine why there was differences.

If you call Joe (888) 216-5328 at Infiniti of Scottsdale, he'll be glad to help as much as he can. The OEM pads came in a very dusty (better stopping) version, see if those are still available. He may be able to have you find some markings on the parts to better know what year they came from.

Post by **JedCoop** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 7:19 pm

I just went through the pad selection process... lots to read on this in other threads.

I Chose akebono ceramic pads with OEM pads a close second.My research included looking at a very detailed report on brake pads for police cruisers. Hawk would be my favored brand, but they don't have one for the Q.

I did the research after I put some Raybestos Ceramic "QuietStop"s on my Honda van - took them off in less than 24 hours, they were really bad, no initial bite and required extra pedal pressure.

Post by **thekawaii** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 9:35 pm

so oem is it!i'm still looking for slotted disk brake thouI heard some fake Brembos are "Made in China"Should i also buy OEM disks?

Post by **Rex** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:01 am

thekawaii wrote:so oem is it!i'm still looking for slotted disk brake thouI heard some fake Brembos are "Made in China"Should i also buy OEM disks?

Send [email protected] (NICO site owner) an email, he has a package of rotors, pads, and SS lines. Worth checking out.

Post by **szh** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 4:12 am

thekawaii wrote:so oem is it!i'm still looking for slotted disk brake thouI heard some fake Brembos are "Made in China"Should i also buy OEM disks?

If you do not get them from Greg (see Rex's post), I have had very good results from irotors.com - note that some others here had problems with delivery timing, etc.

Irotors drill and/or slot Brembo and Bradi disks, with Zinc plating to prevent rusting. At one time, they also had Powerstops. Call and ask for more info as to which disk you will get, or want to get, before the purchase.

Both Brembo and Bradi are very good and less expensive then OEM from irotors.com. I paid $229 (plus shipping) for a set of four cross-drilled and slotted disks. Zinc plating is extra, but they occasionally have specials to get that free.

EDIT: I also just realized that you are not putting them on a Q45 ... I do not know what disks irotors.com they may have for your 240! Call and ask.

Z

Post by **redmanfx** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 7:30 am

I haven't heard anyone mention Hawk brake pads.

red

Post by **thekawaii** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:42 pm

oh ok thanks i'll call them right away!

Post by **elwesso** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:47 pm

For the money OEM pads are unbeatable... At least for street use..... Plus theyre going to be quiet (noisy brakes are major peeve of mine)...

If I were you id go with those!

Post by **Falkdesigns** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:55 pm

Do NOT get rotors that are drilled!!!!! They will crack under hard use, and I assume with a 240 in S. Cali that you want to attack some mountain canyon roads. Get slotted or solid, and don't waste your money on OEM pads unless you don't really care about maximum stopping. Brembo's own literature says this: slotted & drilled or drilled only, "suitable for spirited street use, not recomended for track use." Slotted: "suitable for spirited street use and track days." Unless the rotors have the holes CAST into them, stay away from them. If you want to track or take it in the mountains, I'd go with something like this:

Rotors: slotted or solid rotors (Powerslot or Brembo)Pads: Hawk HP+ or HPS, Performace Friction Carbon Metallic, or Axxis Ultimates,Lines: you don't really need SS braided hoses, it's mainly a pedal feel thing, but if you get them, Earls is on Hawthorne Blvd right off the 405Fluid: Motul RBF600

Post by **redmanfx** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:10 pm

Just got my Hawk HP- Street Compound pads today. Ferro-Carbon. I'll have to see how these things are and post a thread when I've tested them.

red

Post by **thekawaii** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:10 pm

thanks for valuable info.i know drilled is useless in SoCali.i'm gonna use it mainly for drifting practice + street.i'll let you guys know when i get them. probably after i finish my brake rebuilding thou

Post by **thekawaii** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:34 pm

Falkdesigns wrote:Axxis Ultimates,

you mean this one?Part# # D 486 RM Product Name: Brake Pads Manufacturer: PBR/Axxis $35

Post by **Falkdesigns** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:02 pm

I thought the box said Axxis ultimates but I guess if that's what yours calls for.

The way I see it, brake pads are cheap, even for high end (you should see how much pads are in Jpn, it's crazy high) and they are easy to replace, so get some that work well, even if you have to change them more often.

Post by **thekawaii** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:08 pm

ah i found one sale for 89$ from ebay. it's the axxisi guess that's the one.

Post by **JT_MONEY_2004** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:53 pm

JedCoop wrote:I Chose akebono ceramic pads with OEM pads a close second.

When i got Pads recently from Infiniti of Scottsdale, the pads were akebono. Note: i ordered them online, not sure if their was a choice or not.

Post by **Jeff Williams** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 4:08 pm

Falkdesigns wrote:Do NOT get rotors that are drilled!!!!! They will crack under hard use, and I assume with a 240 in S. Cali that you want to attack some mountain canyon roads. Get slotted or solid, and don't waste your money on OEM pads unless you don't really care about maximum stopping. Brembo's own literature says this: slotted & drilled or drilled only, "suitable for spirited street use, not recomended for track use." Slotted: "suitable for spirited street use and track days." Unless the rotors have the holes CAST into them, stay away from them. If you want to track or take it in the mountains, I'd go with something like this:

Rotors: slotted or solid rotors (Powerslot or Brembo)Pads: Hawk HP+ or HPS, Performace Friction Carbon Metallic, or Axxis Ultimates,Lines: you don't really need SS braided hoses, it's mainly a pedal feel thing, but if you get them, Earls is on Hawthorne Blvd right off the 405Fluid: Motul RBF600

I can testify to that. I cracked a set of rear rotors, just driving in heavy traffic. I was in a hurry, and was all over my cross-drilled rotors for nearly 100 miles. I was running with an M3 and a Mustang. I only had about 300 miles on the rear pads. The rotors were eaten alive by the back plates, before I could even get home, to replace them. The rotor looked like a wasted flywheel, it had cracks all in it.

Post by **Q45tech** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 2:55 am

HOWEVER, cracking of drilled rotors is primarilly a function of HOW the holes were drilled! And failure to stress relieve and cyrotreat the rotor afterwards.The shape of the hole, chamfered, the shape of the outer edge and the angle. Most drilling is done on the cheap thus the rotors crack........spend a few hundred extra [each] to get it done correctly.

Or just use non drilled or non slotted rotors.......same with slots the leading trailing edge eats the pads as it is 10 times harder than the pads!

Cost wise it is just cheap to change pads and rotors every 20-40,000 miles since the slide pins and calipers need cleaning and relubeing anyway [every 10k] as to pay for ultra expensive components.

I'm still retrueing my rotors every 6-8/9,000 miles to take out the minor vibrations...........the every 90-120 day mass overhaul noww with higher monthly mileage.

Interestingly, the 2005 G35 front rotor has grown to 28 mm thick [equal to old and new Q]........they still are reluctant to bite the 32 mm bullet as Lexus has for years now.

Post by **Q45tech** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 3:05 am

For a single, even 3 back to back 60-80 mph, stops nothing beats oem pads [U91 or U93] over the 20-100F ambient range. THE F/F edge codes points this out. Now above 600F [pad temperature] things change.

150F pad rise per each incremental 60 mph stop [100+150+150+150=550F]........3 stops within a few minutes at 100F outside...........fluid boil starts to rear its ugly head with old DOT3.

Post by **maxnix** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 6:19 am

Q45tech wrote:150F pad rise per each incremental 60 mph stop [100+150+150+150=550F]........3 stops within a few minutes at 100F outside...........fluid boil starts to rear its ugly head with old DOT3.

Why for a very few dollars more DOT4 is worth every penny, especially when as it degrades it will hold it's performance margin over a DOT3 under the same conditions.

Post by **Falkdesigns** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 7:24 am

Slotted rotors eat pads, (which are cheap and easy to replace) because they are designed to. The entire purpose of slot's is to scrape the pad surface thus keeping fresh pad ready, but they won't last as long. The trade off is better braking under all conditions.

Akebono ceramic's are an excellent OE replacement. I picked up thier brochure at Tokyo Motor Show and if they can stop the Shinkansen (bullet trains), then....

Quote »150F pad rise per each incremental 60 mph stop [100+150+150+150=550F]........3 stops within a few minutes at 100F outside...........fluid boil starts to rear its ugly head with old DOT3.[/quote]Which is why I recomend he use Motul RBF600, it's 600 degree boiling temp will eliminate that. I had Brembo slotted, AEM / NISSIN pads and RBF600 in my Si. After canyon runs where the OE system would over heat to the point I had to brake about 3x ahead of normal, I never experienced brake fade again.

Post by **JedCoop** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 9:54 am

redmanfx wrote:Just got my Hawk HP- Street Compound pads today. Ferro-Carbon.

!!??I couldn't find a Hawk brand pad to fit the Q, even on the Hawk site.

Post by **maxnix** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 10:54 am

I believe thay are out there. Did you try Stillen or Tirerack sites?

I really like the Stillen Brembo rotors (stock size) with the OEM pads on one of my G50.

Post by **drftard** » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:04 pm

bit late but i have new rear rotors w/ hawk pads!

got em from auto rnd in Fremont! when money starts to come in & no more brokeness & the Q is ready for goodies then new rotors in the front (see if i can have G35 or 350z rotors installed) w/ endless pads or something!

Q needs to brake quicker!

Post by **maxnix** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:55 am

drftard wrote:Q needs to brake quicker!

That is a function fo the health of your brake hydraulic system. Stock rotors and pads will lock brakes (or trigger ABS operation) immediately if appliedquickly and sufficiently hard. Braking performance (assuming correct rotors and pads) is more tire limited.

Post by **drftard** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:49 pm

haha oh you might have misunderstood... i meant more as the car is really heavy! and it takes more a braking distance to slow down!

haha, i don't think i have initiated abs in my Q yet i figured with larger rotors & better performance pads & maybe and endless #-pot in the future would have me stopping on a dime!

haven't locked up my falkens yet neither so i shud b good!

Post by **maxnix** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:04 pm

drftard wrote:haha oh you might have misunderstood... i meant more as the car is really heavy! and it takes more a braking distance to slow down!

Actually on the original Michelin tires, the G50 could stop in about 124 ft., depending on road surface friction from 60 mph. Not bad.

Bigger rotors with more thermal mass won't help it stop faster (friction limited by tire and surface), but it may extend the onset of brake fade under heavy use.

Post by **drftard** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:21 am

damn... *sigh i guess its the 300zx brakes then... heard they are worth it!

Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45?

Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45?

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

active sus?

Re: active sus? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (JedCoop)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (szhosain)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (thekawaii)

Re: (Falkdesigns)

Re: (Falkdesigns)

Re: (Falkdesigns)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (JedCoop)

Re: (Falkdesigns)

Re: (Jeff Williams)

Re: (Jeff Williams)

ATE Blue, or something like it. (Q45tech)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (redmanfx)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (JedCoop)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (maxnix)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (drftard)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (maxnix)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (drftard)

Re: Which Brake Disk and Pad for Q45? (maxnix)

Nissan Forums

Infiniti Forums

Datsun Forums

Technical Forums

Classifieds / Marketplace

Nissan Motorsports

General Forums