"elwesso" adapter plate group buy?

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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elwesso
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I've had a few people ask me about the adapter plates I've made in the past..

I cant confirm a price for sure, but I can easily beat mazworx.. Last plates I sold for about $300.. Thats not a firm price but I'm thinking that it should be pretty close to that.

My plate is made from 1/4inch steel and is a full circle. If you use one extra spacer from the stock VH45 flex plate, it will be fine. I am running a spacer on mine and it works fine with the stock VG30 flywheels bolts.. ive had one of my plates in my Q45 for about 4 months (about 3000 miles), driving that land yacht like I drove it and so far everything is perfect...

If I could sell 3, I'd make a run of 5 and be happy... They would come included with all hardware needed, except for the spacer...

I originally made these plates for myself and so far they have proven to be good.. Im not really looking to make much money on them, just enough to cover my time, my friends machine time, and material. no skin off my back if we dont make any... but if theres interest I'll make a handful.



James K
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With this adaaptor plate do you need to use a flywheel spacer and the vg30 starter or, can you use the vh starter

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elwesso
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This is setup for the VG30 starter. You cant use a VH45 starter with the Z32 trans because the locations for the starter notches are in different places.. In other words, you'd have to modify the bellhousing a bit to make VH45 starter work.

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Carl H
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you'd have to skim the bell housing down the same ammount as the thickness of the adaptor plate to compensate for the plate, then in theroy the starter should engage the ring gear but the starter will foul out on the z32 bell.

Ptotherice
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I might be able to get on board with this. Money is kind of tight right now, but I would like to get an adapter plate in a group buy and I'm guessing this will be the last one for a long while. If I have the money when this happens I'll snatch one from you.

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SuperHatch
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Carl H wrote:you'd have to skim the bell housing down the same ammount as the thickness of the adaptor plate to compensate for the plate, then in theroy the starter should engage the ring gear but the starter will foul out on the z32 bell.
Just as an FYI, the ring gear is offset differently on a Z32 flexplate than the Q45 flexplate, so there is a chance the starter won't engage.

Also, the Z flexplate/flywheels have the leading edge on the gear facing the opposite way since the starter engages from the opposite side.

Without flipping the ring gear and spacing it closer to the block, the VH starter will not work with a Z flywheel/flexplate.

One last thing, the Z32 TT flywheel has more teeth (read, larger diameter) than the Q flexplate. The Z32 NA Flywheel and Z32 TT Flexplate have the same number of teeth as the Q45 (read, same diameter). The Z32 NA Flexplate has less than them all (rear, smaller diameter).


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elwesso
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Bottom line when it comes to all that stuff, you cant going wrong with using the same clutch/flywheel/starter from the trans it came from...

All my stuff is from an N/A Z because all that stuff is cheaper...

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Carl H
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super hatch - yeah i completely forgot that i had my flywheel's inbuilt spacer shaved down some to allow for starter engagement and even then every now and again it would scratch.

chance42013
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looking to put a z32 behind vh41 in my 97 q wondering if i will need to change ringgear over to the z32 flywheel or do i still need the spacer if i do can i get and are you still doing the package or am i to late which master would you use

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elwesso
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my plate wil not work with a VH41.

chance42013
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so i will make one but do i still need the spacer for the fly wheel or the z32 work on the 41 i read somewhere that it does

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elwesso
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oh sorry, yeah the Z32 flywheel will work on the VH41 and youll need to space it out a bit..

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Boosted 70z
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I will buy one if you decide to make a run. email me with specifics if you do

[email protected]

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kool-aid54
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elwesso, how reliable are the spacers. I read on another board that you have to be worried about the flywheel possibly not being balanced and while its spinning it might sheer off? I read that you've been doing this for a while and have had no problems. What do you think about that? I would love to find a cheaper alternative to the maxworks plate, its pricey. Also how different is your spacer compared to the maxworks one? Does an individual doing a vh swap still need to have the bell housing on the transmission shaved down like with the maxworks one?
Modified by kool-aid54 at 4:30 AM 8/27/2009

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LEMHEAD16
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Shameless plug.

I have one of Wes's plates on my setup and it has been working great. I had to ream the holes of the starter out to get it to engage every time but other than that it works fine.

+1 for Wes

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elwesso
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kool-aid54 wrote:elwesso, how reliable are the spacers. I read on another board that you have to be worried about the flywheel possibly not being balanced and while its spinning it might sheer off? I read that you've been doing this for a while and have had no problems. What do you think about that? I would love to find a cheaper alternative to the maxworks plate, its pricey. Also how different is your spacer compared to the maxworks one? Does an individual doing a vh swap still need to have the bell housing on the transmission shaved down like with the maxworks one?

Modified by kool-aid54 at 4:30 AM 8/27/2009
id be pretty concerned if it was a big spacer, but this spacer .25in thick, hardly anything when you think of some of the spacers being used are nearly 2 inches thick...

The benefit to my plate is it allows people to buy a regular MT and simply bolt it on, no modification to the bellhousing required, and if you need to replace your trans, simply get another one and put it on!!!! Literally, once the plate is bolted to the engine, there is no need to EVER remove it.

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elwesso
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LEMHEAD16 wrote:Shameless plug.

I have one of Wes's plates on my setup and it has been working great. I had to ream the holes of the starter out to get it to engage every time but other than that it works fine.

+1 for Wes
did you go into any more detail on what you had to do? Ive had my starter not engage about 1 out of every 100 cranks.. usually it would just give a nasty noise, then i try it again and its fine..

I just want to modify my drawings so when we cut them out I can do this already.

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LEMHEAD16
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Its actually not a modification of your plate design. Although I did cut some portions of your plate off to clear the hardlines coming off of the steering rack. Not necessary but it made it alot easier to pull the engine in and out a half million times.

On to the VG starter mod.

Here is a picture

The red represents the stock Vg mounting holes. The Blue ovals represent the holes after I reamed them out with a carbide bit on my dremel. I think that the issue is the the adaptor is 1/4 inch plate and the spacer behind the flywheel is a little less than 1/4, so if the teeth on the flywheel and starter are not perfectly aligned I would get the occasional grind. (really embarassing)

After I reamed the holes out it allows the starter to slide forward (towards the engine) and then be bolted down. I have not had one episode of grinding since I did it and I don't think the starter is fouling on the plate either

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kool-aid54
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elwesso wrote:
id be pretty concerned if it was a big spacer, but this spacer .25in thick, hardly anything when you think of some of the spacers being used are nearly 2 inches thick...

The benefit to my plate is it allows people to buy a regular MT and simply bolt it on, no modification to the bellhousing required, and if you need to replace your trans, simply get another one and put it on!!!! Literally, once the plate is bolted to the engine, there is no need to EVER remove it.
Ok, sweet. I should have some money within the next couple weeks. Let me know if you're going to run some. where do you find those spacers for the flywheel?

Can you use the z32 starter with no problems or is that what Lemhead16 was talking about reaming the holes. I feel that is a small price to pay to get this good of a deal.

I'm in.

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kool-aid54
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If you
LEMHEAD16 wrote:Shameless plug.

I have one of Wes's plates on my setup and it has been working great. I had to ream the holes of the starter out to get it to engage every time but other than that it works fine.

+1 for Wes
were refering to me, I swear it wasn't a plug. Their kit is very expensive for a budget build.

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LEMHEAD16
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I wasn't referring to you. I was giving Wes a big +1. I know their kit is expensive, Tha'ts why I went with Wes's plate

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kool-aid54
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LEMHEAD16 wrote:I wasn't referring to you. I was giving Wes a big +1. I know their kit is expensive, Tha'ts why I went with Wes's plate
So it kicks a**? Did you have any issues with the build? I'm having trouble trying to figure out how I'm suppose to do the wiring. Any help would be great.

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LEMHEAD16
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Here's how you do the wiring.

Pack up your KA harness and VH harness and your Gauge Cluster. Send it to Carl and wait a couple weeks. Magically it will reappear at your door ready to install with the Gauges all nice and calibrated.

NZ450ZX
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The reason for starter engagement problems is the VH's rear crankshaft face is around 4-5mm (approx 3/16 in medieval units) further forward than the VG, when measured to the back of the block where the trans is bolted. By coincidence the little spacer used for the auto flex plat is about this thickness. This gets us all back to the same distance to the back of the Crank as the VG, there is around 10-12mm (7/16?) thickness to the startergear, if be deduct the thickness of the adapter plate from the startergear thickness + 1.5mm(gained from not requiring the old plate between the engine and trans) this would leave the aproximate engagement of the starter motor pinion. 11mm-6.5mm =4.5mm (3/16) + 1.5mm = 6mm which is around half the engagement, there is also some taper to the gear teeth that does not help us.

This is the logic behind Wes's thinner plate, there is no need for any spacer other than the one that comes with the VH.

We produce a similar plate in New Zealand, but it is 10mm (3/8) thicksteel so the transmission is mounted using conventional fasteners rather than studs. The VH45 Spacer is used, in addition we machine an extra part from the circumference of the flywheel and slip the ring gear back a little to allow for better starter engagement. This may also work for Wes's plate. We also add a thick washer behind the clutch fork pivot ball to prevent over travel of the clutch slave cylinder.

If there is anyone in NZ wanting one of these just ask, we are also in the process of adjusting the design to allow fitting to a VH41, as we have a Nissan Scargo with a VH41 in the workshop for a Trans and diff replacement!

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kool-aid54
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LEMHEAD16 wrote:Here's how you do the wiring.

Pack up your KA harness and VH harness and your Gauge Cluster. Send it to Carl and wait a couple weeks. Magically it will reappear at your door ready to install with the Gauges all nice and calibrated.
Oh hell ya. Whats his handle? So I can get a quote. And sorry Wes for the distraction.

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Steve Lloyd
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I would buy one as well. Let me know when and where to send the money.............

Will the Mazworx driveshaft work with this pplate or do I need to source one myself??

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LEMHEAD16
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Carl is "Carl H"

And yes the mazwork driveshaft works fine. Although I think that will have more to do with the engine and transmission mounts that you build. and where they place the engine in the bay.

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kool-aid54
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Ok, Wes. We need you to make a run of these and give us some price quotes. You are only an hour and a half from me, if you live in Angola, IN. And I'll pick mine up.

WYT R1CE
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Ill take one.

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elwesso
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Just so you guys know, im going to try and make 3 or so pretty soon.. Im only going to make 3 for now because I think I've only got enough screws for 3, so I have to turn some new screws.

I should have a quote by the end of the week!


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