Do-Luck makes a brace that goes on the floor behind the front seats....

I'm looking into having a brace made for the rear strut towers....

Add a link to NICOclub to your site!

...even the HITMAN is on MySpace

Stacey Lynn Childs 1970-2007... Love of my life, my best friend, Heaven's prettiest angel. I miss you so much.

Get a welder to do it cheap!
Good Luck,
-Jarret

As for the roll bar. A custom one will work best. The one by autopower contacts the top when it's up. The two rear feet go back too far before angling down. I think they were trying to keep rear seat room in the coupe, but the convertible's roof angle is different from the coupe.

Quote, originally posted by audtatious »

Hey wait. My balls don't hang too low yet

S13 Auto -> Manual Swap / My 240SX / Convertible Top Replacement / Silvia Fog Light Wiring / DIY: SR20DET Rebuild
Stacey L. Childs, NICO Mom

-Jarret

-demetrius

thanks,
-Jarret

Removing door pillars, relocating seat belts, replacing all seats, door panels, running stereo wires, new carpet, installing speakers...

Ragtop + rigidity... hahahahaha

Hopefully that link works, if not just go to http://www.ioportracing.com and go to roll bars, then select from the drop down menu.
I have been reading all the back posts in the convertible forum and it seems like people tried to fit the coupe bar on the vert, but I didn't see anyone mention selecting "convertible" as their roof top and seeing what happens.
I think the best bet is to have one made. By the time you get the autopower race roll bar (the cheapest one I would consider using) with a harness bar and shipped to your door its going to be around $500, which is what it would cost you to have a similar one welded by a shop.

pics after this weekend oooooooooooohhhhhhh!!!

Modified by jrsink at 5:08 PM 11/23/2006

lol for the record I called IO port like last week and they said that the vert bar drop down list option is just a generic list and they dont make a bar specifically for the vert.

But if the coupe bar works and just hits the top then I need to know that because I dont have a top. It would be cheaper for me to buy the autopower and have the rear feet or rear bracing modified than to build a custom bar. Can anyone confirm that the main hood and everything from a an autopower coupe bar does physically fit inside the vert?

also avoid those cusco "cages" like the plaque they are good for posuer value only. They won't pass tech anywhere and I seriously doubt with their heim joints that they would be much good for stiffening. They use relatively thin wall tubing as well, and at angles that make me question their ability to hold the cars weight in a roll over. The way the front bars bend around the dash, they would probably just collpase there if any real load was ever placed on them. And that would probably put you in more danger of being injured by the rollcage than it would save you from danger of being crushed in a rollover.

hahahah i have no top either!!!!
i'm askingaround florida right now to see if anyone will let me cut their s13 coupe top off; some dude told me to cut off a hatch top and make a 240 truck, it could work...

oh yeah. forgot i had loaded this off of my camera a while back

Thanks again to George (Dukeboy) for letting me snag those pics. I really like the overall design, except I would add an SCCA style cross bar to it and make it a bit narrower to allow the interior to stay in.

Thanks for the pics..

i just realized that his bar leans too far forward to add in an SCCA style cross bar. The seats would get in the way. So I guess another alteration I would have to make is to lean the bar back at a bit more of an angle

slownslurious; Your absolutly correct. The Cusco stuff is sorta cheesy. I also am curious how an "A" pillar bar with 3 bends, also called an "escape bar" can be safe? However, from my understanding the Safety21 version is made of bigger and thicker tubing and is a much more serious cage made in the same manufacturing facility.

I will be adding the final portions of my cage (Clevised main hoop and kickers) in the next couple months. Of coase, I'm no expert but I've been around quite a few race car builds in my time. From what I've seen it is always safer to make boxed in base plates instead of welding a plate to the top of the wheel well or directly to the floor pan itself. I personally have seen two roll cage tubes, base plate and all, ripped completely through the floor pan and compromised the drivers safety severly.

If you are planning on adding a cage or just a structural bar, don't chince. Consult someone that knows what they are doing and at the end of the project you will have the peace of mind knowing you are safe when your behind the wheel of your car. Remember, you get what you pay for.

Just my .02

i want a removeable hard top for weather and coolness factors.
i already had a coupe last year; i ditched it; i like a vert better; it's different.
and i don't mind destroying it either; IT'S FUN! i hate being trapped in a hard top s13...
i'm thinking about puttinga hot tub in the back LOL
YOU GOTTA SEE THE PICS....i chopped out all that nasty rusty rear seat brace **** out this weekend' looks so much cleaner now.
gotta make way for the custom cage...
and coilovers in jan, then its over LOL

The rear braces are welded to the wheel wells because I cant get them to go back any farther while still allowing the top to move up and down. Otherwise it would hit the side beams when it folds down. Plus I can still fit 5 tires back there and some other junk. I didn't want to cut out the stock rear brace just yet and remove the top to weld to the strut towers. I am going to put in a full front cage for next year and haven't decided whether or not I want to remove the entire pump and lift assembly to make it manual open/close. If I do, I will just cut out the rear braces and weld them to the strut towers. I will probably do it anyway.

Quote, originally posted by tenkawa_akito »

i just realized that his bar leans too far forward to add in an SCCA style cross bar. The seats would get in the way. So I guess another alteration I would have to make is to lean the bar back at a bit more of an angle

The main hoop is so far forward because I am too tall and I need it to be that high. Otherwise it would hit one of the cross beams on the vert top. Shorter guys might be able to move an inch or two back but will have to lower the hoop height to clear the cross beams. But then it might be too far back and might not have the verticle ridgidity as one that is more upright.

It's going to be a whole new world next year. we Just have to wait and see what we will do.

I think I may just order an autopower coupe one as long as the main hoop fits inside the vert reinforcements I can modify the rear to fit... I dont have a top so top clearance isn't an issue.

i really like the way the ladder bar came out when i get home im going to look through my option magazines and see if i can find any more cool things like this.^^^^