Overheating.... ready to blow it up.....

[240s_are_the_best]

Okay, I was driving through town and stopped at a red light when i noticed a whine(like a bad water pump whine) and my car started to over heat. I pulled into a store and let it cool down and babied it back home. Drove it to the store a few days ago and it started overheating. I went to Advance and got a 170 degree thermostat and a new water pump. installed both and drove it to the store again and it started over heating again. I burped the system for 30min or so and drove it and it is overheating still. It has a new radiator. When i bought the car the people who replaced the headgasket broke the bleeder valve off of the intake manifold and epoxied over the hole. I searched over the site and people say to check your radiator hoses and if the top gets hot and the bottom stays cool then your thermostat is not working. that is exactly how mine is. My heater blows warm air but not hot like it used to. do i still have air in the line? did i get a bad thermostat? thanks for any help in advance!!

[bersh240]

does the fan work..?

[berman]

you can test the thermostat by putting in water and watch and see if it opens while you heat up the water

[Shabbernigdo]

you can test the thermostat by putting in water and watch and see if it opens while you heat up the water

ive had a similar problem car would over heat every now and then and eventully the thermostat just died so i replaced it and was having the same problems u are now. Well it turn out the new thermostat was also bad so i had to pull it all apart agian and get another one from nissan this time.

Now it works fine.

[240s_are_the_best]

i forgot to mention that i have elec. fans and yes they are kicking on. should i take the stat out and see of that fixes it and if it does go get one from nissan? because apparently part house stats are

[GTR PrYdE]

In my exp, it's always been a total B to get all the air out of the system.

I've-

Jacked the car up in the front, squeezing the rad hoses

Put a long funnel in the fill hole on rad, put fluid, rev engine/squeeze hoses

Between those 2 things i've gotten all the air out, but it takes time, i've spent over an hour doing this..

Good luck

[240s_are_the_best]

okay. I pulled the stat and it ran fine. put it back in and burped it for over an hour and does fine idling and heater works fine when driving and idling but when you drive it the bottom rad hose stays cold and it starts overheating. it is about to piss me off and i am ready to drop a 302 HO engine in it and fix all my problems. HELP!!! i dont have the money to take it and have it fixed. is there anyone local who can help a fellow 240er out? lol

[s13_chris]

Do you have the money to get a shop to diagnose?? Just ask them to diagnose but too not work on the car. Ask a shop if they'll do that and you do the work. Always a compromise. Otherwise, good luck with your search. Try Tech Section, and if all else fails try google. It takes you to a lot of other sites and allows a much bigger web of search than our forum search engine.

[dana541]

may be plugged up water jackets due to a dirty cooling system,also could be radiator cap(pressure test it).you could also take the thermostat out and run it without it and see what the temp does.

[horubeets]

Is the thermostat installed in the right direction? It happens sometimes.

[240s_are_the_best]

may be plugged up water jackets due to a dirty cooling system,also could be radiator cap(pressure test it).you could also take the thermostat out and run it without it and see what the temp does.

when i changed the pump and thermostat i flushed the block, radiator and everything... i just cant seem to figure it out. i took the thermostat out and it works fine. but i am not going to drive it with out a thermostat because it is there for a reason, and i am not burning up my KA before i turbo it I am almost 105% sure it is not the headgasket because there is no water in the oil, oil in the water, bubbles in the radiator, or white smoke out of the exhaust. I went and worked on it for a while until i burnt me hand with hot antifreeze... and got i think all of the air out. i burped the upper radiator hose. took out the ecu temp sensor and bleed it there. loosened the thermostat housing bolts and got alot of air out there. now when i do any of that i only get coolant. it does perfect when it is idling but when i drive it is when the problems begin. i am thinking it is still circulating because the heater is still hot, but if i raise the rpms above 4000 the temp starts to rise. when i get back home the upper radiator hose has so much pressure built up on it that i cant squeeze it and the coolant is boiling. but when i grab the lower radiator hose it is cold. PLEASE HELP!! i have tried everything i can think of.

[240s_are_the_best]

Is the thermostat installed in the right direction? It happens sometimes.

Yes it is just like that. i even boiled my old one to see if it was good and it worked fine. so i clipped off the jiggle valve/ bypass valve or whatever it is off and enlarged that hole as i have read on a few sites to do and still nothing...

[wrightme43]

Are you able to see water flowing thru the radiator? When the thermostat is open? I have seen waterpumps that dont actually pump water.

[dana541]

when i changed the pump and thermostat i flushed the block, radiator and everything... i just cant seem to figure it out. i took the thermostat out and it works fine. but i am not going to drive it with out a thermostat because it is there for a reason, and i am not burning up my KA before i turbo it I am almost 105% sure it is not the headgasket because there is no water in the oil, oil in the water, bubbles in the radiator, or white smoke out of the exhaust. I went and worked on it for a while until i burnt me hand with hot antifreeze... and got i think all of the air out. i burped the upper radiator hose. took out the ecu temp sensor and bleed it there. loosened the thermostat housing bolts and got alot of air out there. now when i do any of that i only get coolant. it does perfect when it is idling but when i drive it is when the problems begin. i am thinking it is still circulating because the heater is still hot, but if i raise the rpms above 4000 the temp starts to rise. when i get back home the upper radiator hose has so much pressure built up on it that i cant squeeze it and the coolant is boiling. but when i grab the lower radiator hose it is cold. PLEASE HELP!! i have tried everything i can think of.

i would really check your radiator cap,if it is not holding pressure you can overheat under a load,it may run at normal temp on idle but will overheat when driving it .

-you replaced water pump -you replaced thermostat( and ran it without one)-verified that its not head gasket(pressure test system)-certain that water jackets and radiator are not plugged with debris.-checked radiator cap by pressure testing

those are really the only things that can cause you to overheat other than your electric fans,are they wired to push or pull air through the radiator?,i would recommend that the pull air through the radiator.

[nifares240]

if you're still boiling, air is still in the system.

[spencer240sx]

i can 2nd the rad. cap had the same problem stupid fcking $5 rad caps lol

[PhopsonNY]

Cooling lines might be blocked...

Try flushing the system backwards with the thermostat to see if anything comes out...

Just an idea

[breadbox]

Park on a steep drive way when you bleed air out and bounce the front of your car up and down while some one squeezes the upper rad hose. Worked great for me. Bleeding air with the screw didn't work for me.

[240s_are_the_best]

okay. my luck is turning around. i put the thermostat in it and spent like 10 min and it is better. I drove it pretty hard for about 3 miles and then i turned off of the highway to go back to the house and the temp rose to the line before the H and it burped and the temp went down a little. I think it still has a little air in it. it is going to be getting a new Mishimoto radiator in about 2 weeks so i think i will leave well enough alone till then. THANKS for all yalls help

[24j0hn]

if it starts to overheat again, go to nissan and buy a ka oem thermostat... it may cost $15 more than the one on you bought at advance, but IT WILL WORK...

so if it starts to overheat again, just buy the mishimoto radiator early and a new oem thermostat and then bleed it and you should have no problem

[tom da bomb]

not to threadjack anyone but...my car is doing something similar, i replaced the water pump, thermostat, and clutch fan over summer. it seemed to run fine for a while but now it's overheating. even when its 20 freakin degrees out.

i will be on the highway and its fine but if im in traffic or idling it will overheat...

thermostat?

[hazukijitsu]

not to threadjack anyone but...my car is doing something similar, i replaced the water pump, thermostat, and clutch fan over summer. it seemed to run fine for a while but now it's overheating. even when its 20 freakin degrees out.

i will be on the highway and its fine but if im in traffic or idling it will overheat...

thermostat?

I have this same exact problem. I want to find the answer also!!!!!

[240s_are_the_best]

okay. it is 10x better than what it was. i can drive it about 10 miles then it heats up but i can drive it about a 1/4 mile and the temp drops back around where it is supposed to be. I am going to take it to the local radiator shop next week and see what they think. Does anyone have a spare bleeder valve? lol i am going to put one back in my intake one way or another.....

[Legion76]

I've had several different overheating issues with my car. First time, it would heat up when not moving, but would be fine when driving. Turned out the fan clutch went bad. So check that for you guys that still have one. One time, I went through about 4 thermostats after replacing the waterpump only to find out I had a blockage in the radiator. It's a pain to get the air out the system, so good luck with that.

[rbforsale]

i am having the exact same problem, but with my sr.\ive replaced thermostat?boil tested it and fine.\new radiator\new rad cap\tried 5 diff ones.did compression test\perfectdid coolant system pressure test\ perfectflushed system mulitple times\replaced temp sensor and sending unit\went back to factory overflow tank\bipassed heater core\no oil in coolant and vise versa\twin electric fans\and factory clutch fan both are functionalthen i noticed something really odd yesterday,when my car startedto over heat i thought i had my electric fans off by accident... but they where on. and when i flipped the switch the temp gauge instantly dropped 3 marks.so i sat there and just flipped the switch a few times and every time i did it the needle would instantly move down.so i drove around for a while with the fans off and it never over heated until like 3 hours later of in town stop and go traffic, then i cut the fans on, and the temp went back up even higher.so my guess is that the electric fans wich pull direct power must be causing a voltage drop in the power harness sending irregular voltage to parts of the system,and a temp sensor is an open switch with an odd type of metal that when its heated to a curtain temp it changes shape and connects with a terminal in the switch to send a regulated amount of volatge to in transverse gives the temp gauge a "bearing" the gauge and switch operate based off certain ohms,if the temp sensor is sending more volts that its supposed to the gauge will read wrong.\\im going to do a continuity test to see if the wire to the gauge and sensor is sevored or exposed in some way.or maybe its not on a common ground thus the spiking when a drop in power is applied

[tom da bomb]

ok...i pulled my thermostat, boil tested and its fine. i put a new clutchfain in it over the summer.i give up, ive tried to bleed it and it gets me no where.

ive used that radiator flush stuff to get any gunk out of the system...

[240s_are_the_best]

okay. it is 10x better than what it was. i can drive it about 10 miles then it heats up but i can drive it about a 1/4 mile and the temp drops back around where it is supposed to be. I am going to take it to the local radiator shop next week and see what they think. Does anyone have a spare bleeder valve? lol i am going to put one back in my intake one way or another.....

[xX RB Xx]

ill buy it. how much?

[240s_are_the_best]

ill buy it. how much?

80 gazillion dollars. haha sorry dude she aint for sale, no matter how many problems she gives me. i will just go get a 6 pack and start the game where is that noise coming from? lol

[240s_are_the_best]

went for a nice relaxing drive yestereday and now it will heat up but not all the way and then it will slowly cool back off. and it will do this over and over. when i bought my rad. cap i got the one with a pressure release lever and when i pulled over to let off the pressure and fill it up with water i forgot to flip the little lever back down and i took off and it stayed at opperating temp. but i noiced water coming up from between my hood and my driver fender by the overflow and pulled over to find that it had blown alot of the water out and all over my engine bay. so i filled it back up and the process of heating up and cooling off started again. could it be my gauge sender? i think i will try that next because when the headgasket was replaced, i guess whoever done it thought the wire just slipped on instead of locking on there an just pulled the hell out of it and loosend the terminal. so now it just spinns freely

Oh, I took my maxima fans off and put the clutch fan and the stock electric fan back on. my clutch fan seems to be lose on the shaft that bolts to the water pump. like a wobble almost and it has quite a bit of resistance when i spin it. could it be the fan clutch? like it will heat up and the HI side of the electric fan will kick on and cool it back down?
Modified by 240s_are_the_best at 1:15 PM 12/21/2009