Im calling Eibach tomorrow and see if they can do a camber kit. Ill be faxing my specs to them so they can make parts to fix the camber issue. The tech aligned it for me a couple a weeks ago and recheck and it stayed where it was set at. He change the toe which he said was not in spec and thinks it was missed. He told me to keep tire pressure low up front til I could get the camber issue solved. Its not a daily so wear is small. I took a 1K trip and wear was starting to show on the inside from rough Alabama roads but I had the pressure up 5lbs. I just hate neg camber and thought I would share with those with dailys. Eibach might not be for you if you go 20s. 19s you might get within spec.

Right or wrong?

to the OP, I would love to see the specs on how they aligned your car. I've had 3 alignments (gotta love the Firestone lifetime service) since putting the coils on 3 months ago. I can't get my rears into spec (I'm just over 2* neg camber) and my fronts are just under 2*. are you on sport struts?

in Eibach's defense, the car looks great and the ride is not bad at all. in fact, other than rare clearance issues on huge speed bumps, i can hardly feel a harshness difference from stock and the drastic change in roll and pitch is appreciated.

That's a perfect description.

Altering a key suspension component is going to have a ripple effect. The increase in camber also adds about +2* of caster. The caster increase has a positive impact on highway stability. Trambling concerns are almost completely resolved.

The Eibachs tell you in the installation instructions that they tires should be rotated every 3k after the spring install. Cross rotation will also greatly increase the longevity and even the wear out over the full contact patch.

There is no possible way that anyone will ever be able to zero the camber in the rear with the factory eccentrics. I'm betting you will not be able to get any closer that -1.75 although that is pure speculation as no two Ms travel the same roads meaning the wear is different. I have not seen any adjustable control arms for the front or rear but they may exist.

The front camber is not adjustable from the factory and I can imagine that running rims over 20" would rub on something, and they will transfer more road imperfections. Something about increased rotational mass and decreased sidewall shock absorbing capabilities. That is a personal choice though.

My point is this...simply putting on a bigger wheel alone does not change camber. This refers to the first statement/question. The answer to my question was muddied by the assumption the bigger wheel would not fit therefore forcing the wheel to fit by more negative camber. Most bigger wheels (including my own) fit just as well as the smaller wheels. Tons of room to spare I might add. I proved a 10 inch wide, 20 inch wheel could fit in the front of a lowered M35 without any modifications. Full right and left turn over bumps. In most cases you're just changing wheel for tire (same circumfrence). Dealers routinely exchange 18's for 19's and visa versa and DON"T even think about realignment or negative camber. Period!

There are a fair amount of aggressive Z fanactics and others who dial in negative camber to accomadate their 11 inch -5mm offset wheels with stretched tires. I know one person who at one point had -7 degress negative camber to force his big azz wheel to fit his car. Car was barely drivable.

It implys camber is changed by the size of the wheel. I disagree. Show/prove me wrong, and then I will sincerely appreciate the education.

My statement/question/paragraphs was in this regard.

another question: how truly accelerated is tire wear for ~2* of camber? is it really that much of a big deal? i mean, honestly, if it's <10% faster, I don't think i'm gonna lose sleep over it. another thing i don't understand, how does rotating my tires help? even if I could cross rotate, since i'm running neg camber all the way around, won't the camber (inner tire wear) be accelerated regardless? the only i way i can envision that you'd "even" out the wear is if you could remount the tire with the inner lip out and vice versa. am i totally missing the point?

That's exactly what he's talking about. You "flip" the tire on the rim and use it on the other side of the car. So the inside on the left front would become the outside on the right front after the flip. (because the tires are uni-directional, they can't be flipped and used on the same side). I've done this many times in the past and it is the "best" way to get mileage out of a staggered set of tires. Like he said, if you flip them at the right time, you can get the most useage or mileage out of them.