Any suggestions?

We've tried pretty much everything.

Might just be flooded. Try cranking with gas pedal to floor.

2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 - 144k miles - stock for now
2000 Dodge Durango SLT 2wd 5.9L V8 - 105k miles, rebuilt tranny, 4.56:1 gears, added leaf springs, Bilstien HD shocks, Hawk SuperDuty front pads

1993 Ford F-250 SuperCab Long Bed 2wd 7.5L V8 - 139k miles - for sale
1994 Infiniti J30t - 204k miles - sold

Just because yours doesn't do it doesn't mean that it's not a known issue.

Seriously, J30s don't work right until you figure out what's wrong with them, their ECMs are connected to quite a number of inputs and outputs, and things always come down to an electrical/spark, air or fuel related problem.

Every so often I make it work work non-stop in mine (about 7 miles of city streets and freeway driving) and it's frustrating that in order to fully lower the idle of warmed-up engine, I have to have stopped at least once after it's warmed up (which doesn't take long) for about 15 sec or so. In stop and go driving that's not a problem.

I know the engine will not start if the TPS is disconnected. It will not crank at all if a couple of connectors near the battery are not connected. It might start and will quickly die, if the MAF isn't connected electrically and physically. It will run with four and possibly only three injectors connected/working.

Have you pulled any codes? Flooded is a possiblity, if you've cranking it a while with air, fuel and no spark.

driverdriver - It wasn't a short trip. I was driving for a good 45 minutes.

coolyun_98 - That was pretty good, i must say.

GerryO - Only code is 55, which is everything is okay. And i know it's not flooded
because we tried everything. I checked the MAF, it seems to look ok, and the
intake and all is clean. I took out a spark plug and tested the spark, it wasn't
as strong as it could/should be, but there was still a spark. Just put in NGK sparkplugs, haven't even driven on them yet. After i put in the NGK's, the spark
was a little stronger, but still not to the full potential. Checked fuses, everythings okay. So now i'm going to test fuel pressure and compression.

Thanks guys

Have you checked the trouble-shooting portion of your owner's manual and could the alarm system be preventing the car from starting?

But i'm pretty sure the alarm system isn't stopping it from
starting, because if it was the alarm, you wouldn't be able to turn
the key at all.

that is incorrect...

Not "you cant physically turn the key".

Compression test results? TPS, CPS or ECM related? Check the wires in the vicinity of the bottom ECM bracket for cuts.

Search the words/terms - J30 start - . This happens a lot and how it is fixed is almost never reported, aside from this or something very similar a few times:

« Re: 95 J30 wont start ! (NY_Pito_NY) 10:42 AM 3/22/2006
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Also I would like to add that.....i charged up the battery, changed the plugs again,...and didnt start right away....put i kept at it....holding the key on all the way and holding the gass pedal down all the way....then after i would say 40 seconds it coughed then shook then it started up....what the hell.....it fixed it self.

But i believe it's the fuel pump.
When ignition is turned to on, there is no
noise from the pump.

Would the check engine light be on for a fuel
pump though? My check engine light is off.
And no code from ECU

My pump is silent ,, or at least I cant hear it.
And my ears are about all that still works as designed .

But we don't hear one thing when listening for the pump.
We put a screw driver up to the gas tank and while someone
turned ignition to on, we listened and heard nothing.

You would hear a faint noise if it was working.

On a warm day fuel will pour out even with the ignition OFF and the fuel pump is very quiet (especially after too many 60s/70s rock concerts and sprint car races).

From pages EF & EC 183 and 184 of the 1993 manual:

Hard to Start or Impossible to Start When Engine is Cold

1) check battery and starter - you've been crankin'

2) check fuel pressure - probably OK

3) The check IACV-Air and IACV-AAC valve via the fully depressed accelerator when starting test - you FAILED?

4) Check injectors - probably OK

5) Check spark - probably OK

6) Check plugs - Now new? What's their gap?

7) Check ECM harness connectors

8) Check ECM power supply and ground circuit

9) Try known good ECM, but probably not mine.

Many times.

When testing you disconnected the line leading TO and not the line AFTER the fuel filter?

And unlike the old fuel pump, the new one now can be heard and pumps out gas?

If not, maybe there's no power to the fuel pump (check the fuse/relay), the screen on the fuel pick-up inside of the gas tank might be clogged, a fuel line could be kinked or you have some bad gas?

Compression test?

Could you check the ignition timing with a light, with all of the plugs out and when cranking the engine, which you'll need to do anyhow to perform the compression test?

Modified by GerryO at 12:43 PM 8/27/2008