Get a multimeter and check for voltage through the wires when the switch is depressed and then not depressed.

Then splice the wire that gives you current when the switch is not depressed.. meaning the door is open. I'm not an electrical expert, but you should probably stick a fuse in line between your splice and your new electrical component just to be safe.

Joshua 1:9 "Have I not commanded you? Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go."

EDIT: Finally found out what the other two wires do in the fold out. They're tied to the Timing Control Unit. My guess is that it tells the TCU to flash the seatbelt light if the door is opened when the car is on as it completes a circuit coming from the TCU. The red/white is the standard dome light wire, the blue/white must be the signal from the TCU and the black is obviously ground.

Quote, originally posted by audtatious »

Hey wait. My balls don't hang too low yet

S13 Auto -> Manual Swap / My 240SX / Convertible Top Replacement / Silvia Fog Light Wiring / DIY: SR20DET Rebuild
Stacey L. Childs, NICO Mom

Depending on the device could run it to the dome light wiring as well.

Quote, originally posted by biggie »

Depending on the device could run it to the dome light wiring as well.

Is it hard to get to dome light wiring? Where's the easy access?

The switch HAS to be screwed to the chassis to ground or else it doesn't complete the circuit. When I'm doing work that requires me to have the doors open for long periods and I don't feel like burning up the battery, I unscrew the switch a few turns.

Also, and this is my experience, when I try to manually ground the r/w wire to activate the circuit, I can never seem to get a strong enough ground to turn the lights on except past a very dim amount. I was checking which wires would be best to hook my keyless up to get dome light supervision, and I thought my lights had gone out because my test light was barely turning on when I grounded the r/w wire out at the passenger kick panel. My test light had an amazingly good ground, so my only guess is that without the switch doing the grounding, the system is bogged down from trying to run too many lights on a small ground via a test light or multimeter.

Quote, originally posted by DeXteR »

You do know that there are map lights in the rear view mirror, right?

Yes, bottom of rear view mirror, but not all verts have this. Mine has it though.

wmdavis007,
No, that's not it since I already have built in map lights in the rear view mirror. My interior is messy at the moment, but I'm almost there. I'll try to install everything back this weekend and post some pics sometime next week. You won't be disappointed.

Quote, originally posted by DeXteR »

You do know that there are map lights in the rear view mirror, right?

I had to order that mirror and wire it in myself. My car didn't even have the wiring for it. Way to go ASC!

We still never figured out which models got the map lights either.

That was one of the first additions I had to do. When doing my audio stuff we accedientally blew the TCS and I had no dash lights on a 5+hr drive back home in the dark, had to use a flashlight occasionally to see how fast I was going (since my cruise hasn't ever worked).

I really want to find someone who can make a-pillar guage pods that replace the whole a-pillar piece. That would be freaking fantastic and I wouldn't have this mismtached guage pod staring me in the face. And I could hide the wires coming off of them easier.