We drove it for about 20 minutes after it had warmed and it drove wonderfully.
Got back, shut the car off washed my hands and was back in the car to get it started and it wouldn't start.

it would turn over but nothing. then after about the 10th time it started but not like it should. then that's when the smoke and smell started coming and is idling rough once again.

Anybody have any suggestions as to what it might be....

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I took it to the dealer and cylinder 3, 5 and 7 are down but don't know why. injectors work as well as the harness and ignitors.

there's to much gas going through the exhaust

They just don't know why it's doing this.

What is the head gasket? Are those the rings that go under the plenum?

Quote, originally posted by elwesso »

I still think its an injector issue.. Have you since taken the rail off and make sure that no gas is leaking from the tip?

Listen to the master (Wes).....you have a leaky lower fuel injector o-ring. Unless you've had an overheating event you didn't tell us about there's nothing wrong with your head gasket. The leak you described in FI # 1 was from the upper o-ring and if that's the case I would start by replacing both o-rings on #1 (been inserted twice now), slathering it up with vaseline, and popping it back in. If you're lucky it fixes the leak and you don't have to remove the plenum.

Your mechanics are clueless. Fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe should have at least put leaky injectors on their short list of things to check. Get your Q home quick and do the work yourself. Good luck.

Are those symptoms of leaky injectors the rough idling and smoke out of the exhaust smelling like gas.

The mechanic at Infiniti did seem kind of clueless.

It seems to hydra lock sometimes too so I wanna get this done soon before it becomes more expensive

You have all the symptoms- rough idle (suprised it stay running), all cylinders filling up with fuel, billowing white smoke out of the exhaust, raw fuel pouring out the exhaust pipe or muffler, and eventually hydrolock if the leak gets too bad. Don't drive too far.

Are you using new o-rings on the injectors? Are the mating surfaces on the fuel rail cups free of residue or nicks? At 45 psi, a nick in an o-ring or a fuel rail raised surface doesn't have to be very big to cause major leaks. A nick that small may not even be visible to the naked eye. My employer has lost hundreds of millions of $$ on test stands and launch pads over the years due to under-inspected o-rings.

Take a chance and start over with #1 injector. It's the easiest to get to and you've got a 1 out of 4 chance it's the problem o-ring. Clean the rail cup with a good penetrant (PB Blaster) and a rag, install and lube up new o-rings, and try again. Good luck.

would all 3 injector O rings be pinched since 3 cylinders are down?

I'm probably going to go to the dealer in the morning before work and tell him what's wrong.

I'm debating whether to let them do the work or take it home and do it myself because I don't wanna drive it to far, cause more problems and I don't know when I will have time.

I'd much rather do it myself but thats probably not the most beneficial for my car.

Did you mention you were a NICOnaut when you sent them in?

Discover the power of the button!

Quick update though, I went to the dealer this morning to tell him about the possibility of the pinched O Rings and he told me that that might be half the problem but I'm getting no spark.

Heath

Don't know what to do now?

Any suggestions

Recommend BG MOA on the refill. Report back.

I'm just repeating what I've read but don't the hydraulic lifters take a while to refill with oil if they've been drained (or the oil thinned)? Maybe the fuel in the crankcase thinned the oil enough to drain one of the HLA's.

If you think you have a sticky lifter I had good success on my 94Q with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). It's only about $5/bottle and also involves draining the oil after a day of driving. It quieted the lifter within a few minutes of adding it to the oil.

Can I add the MMO the day before I change the oil and then use the BG quick clean right before the oil change and follow it up with MOA?

http://www.autobarn.net/chmm01..._base

Can I add the MMO the day before I change the oil and then use the BG quick clean right before the oil change and follow it up with MOA?

Does anybody have any knowledge on this product

http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html

To many quasi techs didn't follow precise instructions and caused damage, thus the milder Purge.

MMO contains chloronated hydrocarbons which are not the best for bearings..............methyl and methylene chloride but at 1% probably cannot cause much harm in short term use.

" In 1923, Pierce went out on his own, incorporated as Marvel Oil, and began selling his recipe of light oil and other chemicals as "Mystery Oil", claiming it to be a "universal lubricant and cleaner". One of the more recent VP's of the Marvel Oil Company is quoted as saying: "'The basic formula hasn't changed since 1917".

"Marvel Mystery Oil is a light viscosity oil, roughly equivalent to an SAE 3W, containing (among other things) about 20 percent solvent (probably mineral spirits plus a chlorohydroganate), dye, wintergreen for smell, and 790 PPM of a phosphorous additive."

At least none of these products won't hurt engines if directions are followed PRECISELY!

Go figure

Will this do the trick?

Check it out.

http://www.bgprod.com

I think Quick Clean for the crankcase is quite different.