Enjoy, let me know what you think.

-1990 s13 Hatch (SOLD)
-1995 s14 (Current)

email: mmaxeyjr@gmail.com

I'm looking for a few parts actually i've already posted in the wtb section.

intake, converter(for cone filters), button cover for cruise control or button.

thanks

Stuff for sale:

Coolant Reservoir

Interior sale

yah I have a few friends that own 240's and could help me out. I know of 5 240sx owners in my area that are within a 5 minute drive.

Quote, originally posted by sommmatt »

You need a piggy lip hard. haha.

Yeah if I could find the lip for an affordable price i'd definately go for it and put it on right away. If anyone knows where or who I can get one let me know

Quote, originally posted by mmaxeyjr »

yah I have a few friends that own 240's and could help me out. I know of 5 240sx owners in my area that are within a 5 minute drive.

nice, get a hold of me sometime, i wonder if we know any of the same 240 owners

Quote, originally posted by mrgreeneyes »

sorry i cant satisfy you, jeff

Still plays with cars...

It's nice to see one in that shape. The motor even looks very clean.

Their is a FEW 1990's in my town and ALL of them are in totally crappy shape, rotted to hell and they all have those SUPER ugly stock rims on them..

haha thanks, except I like them that way. it's sleepy sometimes

Urs is clean man!

heres a wanted list:

Wire tuck
more Grounding wires
Front lip
Springs or Coilovers
5 Speed Swap (w/ short throw)
Intake / exhaust
Wheels (extended wheel studs)
Fog lights
Tinted windows
stereo system - i just need door speakers..

Quote, originally posted by mmaxeyjr »

Yeah if I could find the lip for an affordable price i'd definately go for it and put it on right away. If anyone knows where or who I can get one let me know

I got one for sale. 50 bucks. Has a couple cracks that can be fixed with body filler/fiberglass.

It's got a good inspection until May 2009.

I want it to look like this. What do you think?

Quote, originally posted by mmaxeyjr »

It's got a good inspection until May 2009. I want it to look like this. What do you think?

Dude! Isn't that the ebay piggy we made fun of last week? If it is, its not bad looking but it was overpriced w/ sunk wheels and was being advertised as a showcar...

S13 Project Cloud current status: KYB AGX shocks/struts, Tein S-Tech springs, Suspension Techniques front/rear sway bars, Ebay front/rear strut bars, Hawk HPS brake pads, Powerslot Slotted Rotors, Agency Power braided brake lines w/Motul fluid, Exedy Stage 1 Racing Clutch, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, AEM short ram, Ebay X-tune Header, Circuit Sports dual tip catback exhaust. Wheels: 16x8.5+27 Kosei K1's with 225/45/16's.

S14 Project Red XIV current status: Tokico Blue shocks/struts, Eibach Pro springs, 18x8.5+33 Z33 Anniversary wheels all around

I just think tails completely blacked out like that look pretty sweet on a red hatchback idk if I want to do it or not though...

Also i'm in need of a complete radiator flush, BADLY! What's the best way to do it on these cars? Is there a screw or knob that I break loose and the fluid automatically drains out?

Also is there more than 1 screw/knob that I have to break loose?

Should I use my hose and run water directly through the radiator so it cleans it out?

Do I have to jack up the car?

Thanks a lot!

Modified by mmaxeyjr at 10:05 PM 5/9/2008

http://www.myspace.com/darkrotor >>Have a look at my cars ?

Best way to do it on your own is to go to your local autoparts store and pick up a coolant flush kit. Follow the instructions on it.
There should be a screw on the drivers side of the block somewhere under the exhaust manifold, and then there's a plastic screw on the bottom of the radiator...watch out not to strip it, I almost have mine stripped so I have to be careful.

When you're draining, make sure your radiator cap is off, and I'd also disconnect the bottom radiator hose too...it just makes hte job easier.

another thing i want to do is put in my subs and amps.

I have a jvc kameleon head unit, 2 12" JL W3 subs, and 2 sony amplifiers. I had them in my previous car and they worked well together. But idk how to go about wiring this.

Also the speakers are 4x6 all the way around right?

Thanks

Modified by mmaxeyjr at 11:08 AM 5/10/2008

So I guess to get it hooked up I just need to run a power wire from the pos. terminal to the trunk.
Then rca's from headunit to amplifiers.
And then put speaker wire from my amp(s) to my subs. then they should be working right?
My only question is how exactly do I get the power wire inside the vehicle and all the way back? Do I have to unbolt something? Or can I just shove it through something and get to it somehow?

Also:
Earlier I added a random ground wire from the negative terminal to a bolt
(i think it was the one that holds up the windshield washer fluid pipe)

When I did this there was a clicking noise that kept going off.
It sounded like it was in the relay box.
Then I took off the positive termal and it stopped.
Next I put both terminals back on and the noise started again.
Then I turned on the car while the noise was going off and it ran fine.
So then I shut the car off and the sound was gone. Is this bad?
The car seems to run fine. I drove it 50 miles today.

I know it's a lot of reading but I really appreciate all the help!
Thanks

The ground that I was talking about is the one from your amps, you'll need to run one from your amps to the closest metal thing in your hatch area.
And do you only have one set of rca? or 2 sets?

if you only have once set then you can run the rca from your deck to one amp, and use the output rca from that amp and hook an rca cable from that amp to the other. Assuming there's an output rca on one of the amps....

If there's not an rca output on one of the amps then go on ebay or some place that sells electronics and get an rca splitter. It should plug into the back of your deck where the rca connections are, and it will split into 2 sets of rca cables.

And about the power wire, I just found a rubber grommet on the firewall that a wire harness was going through and I shoved it through there and fished it through the other side. Another easy thing to do is find a blank spot on your firewall and drill a hole big enough for the wire to go through. Go down the the hardware store and pick up a rubber grommet that will fit the hole, and then just slide your wire through the hole you made. BUT MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU DRILL THAT THERE'S NOTHING IN THE WAY BEHIND THE WIREWALL. I don't want you drilling a 1/4 hole in your blow motor or vents.

And remember, ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY BEFORE MESSING WITH THE ELECTRONICS....only when you're all done wiring up EVERYTHING, connect the negative back on the battery.

ALSO, MAKES SURE THAT WHEN YOU'RE WIRING UP THE POWER WIRE THAT IT THE ENDS DON'T TOUCH ANY METAL.
SO BEST BET IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY COMPLETELY, THEN DO THE WIRING, THEN HOOK POS UP ON THE BATTERY, THEN NEG.

however, if you get part-way through the install, fail/give up, we charge an extra $40 to undo your work and return it to a pre-install state.

so, pay $60ish once or end up paying $100 later...

and most every reputable shop i know will tune your eq/amp/etc so that you get maximum sound quality for your whole setup.

please take it to someone reputable.

EDIT:

where in lancaster area are you? lol, ill help you do it. just saw your location...