my 1990 240sx

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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White Comet
Posts: 19033
Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:22 am
Car: fc, s13 and mazda6, Sierra
Location: lancaster, pa

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the black lights look nice, but you might get hassled by cops. get a spare set that way you can switch back to stock untinted ones if u need to. theres a perfect set of hatch tails at ez pull


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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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alright thanks for the info guys.

another thing i want to do is put in my subs and amps.

I have a jvc kameleon head unit, 2 12" JL W3 subs, and 2 sony amplifiers. I had them in my previous car and they worked well together. But idk how to go about wiring this.

Also the speakers are 4x6 all the way around right?

Thanks
Modified by mmaxeyjr at 11:08 AM 5/10/2008

ken240sx
Posts: 1119
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:00 pm
Car: '92 KA-T 240sx, '08 Vette + Spray, '09 Benz C300, '98 Trans Am + Cam & Spray, '03 Acura TL Type S

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Wiring is the easiest part. You plug the rca cables from your amps into the deck. You also wire the thin remote wire to the acc. wire in your deck's harness or if there's a specified "remote" labeled wire. Basically the remote tells the amp when your car is on, so even the cig lighter wire should work. Pick a spot in the trunk about a 1-3 feet away from your amps where you see a bolt that goes into the frame/chassis, the strut towers work well to. Remove the bolt, get some coarse sand paper and sand the paint off where the bolt hole is...This is where you're going to ground your amp or amps, I don't know how many watts you're running, but I use 0AWG wire(zero gauge) for all wiring like this that I do. Now with the power wire, you're also gonna want a low number gauge for the wire, hook it to your positive terminal on your battery. Make sure there is an inline fuse that is about the same as the combined fuses in your amps. Put the fuse closer to the battery end of the wiring. I slip the wire in through the rubber grommet where the harness goes in to the fuse box. Now make sure that when you're laying down the wires and hiding them under your carpet that the rca wires aren't close to the power, because you may have interference that way. I jsut run the rca's down the middle, and the power wire on the drivers side. **** I forgot, I relocated my battery to the drivers side, so it's going to be opposite for you, run the power into the vehicle where the ECU harness goes into the firewall and keep the wire on the passenger side.Hope this helped.

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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Thanks man It helped me get a better idea. My headunit only has 2 RCA plugs in the back of it, does this mean that I can only run 1 amplifier? Meaning i'll only be able to use the amp(S) to power the subwoofers?

So I guess to get it hooked up I just need to run a power wire from the pos. terminal to the trunk.Then rca's from headunit to amplifiers.And then put speaker wire from my amp(s) to my subs. then they should be working right?My only question is how exactly do I get the power wire inside the vehicle and all the way back? Do I have to unbolt something? Or can I just shove it through something and get to it somehow?

Also:Earlier I added a random ground wire from the negative terminal to a bolt (i think it was the one that holds up the windshield washer fluid pipe)

When I did this there was a clicking noise that kept going off. It sounded like it was in the relay box.Then I took off the positive termal and it stopped.Next I put both terminals back on and the noise started again. Then I turned on the car while the noise was going off and it ran fine.So then I shut the car off and the sound was gone. Is this bad?The car seems to run fine. I drove it 50 miles today.

I know it's a lot of reading but I really appreciate all the help!Thanks

ken240sx
Posts: 1119
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:00 pm
Car: '92 KA-T 240sx, '08 Vette + Spray, '09 Benz C300, '98 Trans Am + Cam & Spray, '03 Acura TL Type S

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Whatever you just did, edit and cut....don't do it again lol. Oh by the way, anytime you're working with the electrons in the car, make sure the negative is disconnected and not touching anything metal.

The ground that I was talking about is the one from your amps, you'll need to run one from your amps to the closest metal thing in your hatch area.And do you only have one set of rca? or 2 sets?

if you only have once set then you can run the rca from your deck to one amp, and use the output rca from that amp and hook an rca cable from that amp to the other. Assuming there's an output rca on one of the amps....

If there's not an rca output on one of the amps then go on ebay or some place that sells electronics and get an rca splitter. It should plug into the back of your deck where the rca connections are, and it will split into 2 sets of rca cables.

And about the power wire, I just found a rubber grommet on the firewall that a wire harness was going through and I shoved it through there and fished it through the other side. Another easy thing to do is find a blank spot on your firewall and drill a hole big enough for the wire to go through. Go down the the hardware store and pick up a rubber grommet that will fit the hole, and then just slide your wire through the hole you made. BUT MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU DRILL THAT THERE'S NOTHING IN THE WAY BEHIND THE WIREWALL. I don't want you drilling a 1/4 hole in your blow motor or vents.

And remember, ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY BEFORE MESSING WITH THE ELECTRONICS....only when you're all done wiring up EVERYTHING, connect the negative back on the battery.

ALSO, MAKES SURE THAT WHEN YOU'RE WIRING UP THE POWER WIRE THAT IT THE ENDS DON'T TOUCH ANY METAL.SO BEST BET IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY COMPLETELY, THEN DO THE WIRING, THEN HOOK POS UP ON THE BATTERY, THEN NEG.

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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i have 2 separate rca cables. The ground wire that I did was just to put in a ground wire, not for the amps or anything. So drilling is necessary?

ken240sx
Posts: 1119
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 7:00 pm
Car: '92 KA-T 240sx, '08 Vette + Spray, '09 Benz C300, '98 Trans Am + Cam & Spray, '03 Acura TL Type S

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no, you can fish it through one of the places where wires are already going through. I did it and it works fine.

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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alright i got it all going right now. I just need ground wires, and i need to put in my subs. I hope it works..

mrgreeneyes
Posts: 2229
Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:15 pm
Car: ///M5
Parted Out Built S13 Coupe

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honestly, if you dont know what youre doing 100%, take it to a pro. at my shop (i install this stuff for a living) we charge only $60 to do a full amp/sub install. thats ridiculously cheap for the work involved to do it properly. Circuit City and Best Buy also offer lifetime warranties on their labor as well, so if you have a problem with the install, take it back to them and they fix it if its determined to be a labor mistake, not faulty product.

however, if you get part-way through the install, fail/give up, we charge an extra $40 to undo your work and return it to a pre-install state.

so, pay $60ish once or end up paying $100 later...

and most every reputable shop i know will tune your eq/amp/etc so that you get maximum sound quality for your whole setup.

please take it to someone reputable.

EDIT:

where in lancaster area are you? lol, ill help you do it. just saw your location...

ozzman_zig
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 11:27 pm
Car: 1990 nissan 240sx

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the spoiler makes a 240 look like a mitsi-talon. my friend is storing his talon at my house and i thought about pulling it off and putting it on my '90 240sx

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giodachamp
Posts: 526
Joined: Mon Aug 13, 2007 5:50 pm
Car: Nissan 240SX S13 (180SX)

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nice clean hatch bro

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mmaxeyjr
Posts: 829
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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mrgreeneyes wrote:honestly, if you dont know what youre doing 100%, take it to a pro. at my shop (i install this stuff for a living) we charge only $60 to do a full amp/sub install. thats ridiculously cheap for the work involved to do it properly. Circuit City and Best Buy also offer lifetime warranties on their labor as well, so if you have a problem with the install, take it back to them and they fix it if its determined to be a labor mistake, not faulty product.

however, if you get part-way through the install, fail/give up, we charge an extra $40 to undo your work and return it to a pre-install state.

so, pay $60ish once or end up paying $100 later...

and most every reputable shop i know will tune your eq/amp/etc so that you get maximum sound quality for your whole setup.

please take it to someone reputable.

EDIT:

where in lancaster area are you? lol, ill help you do it. just saw your location...
I kinda knew what I was doing, I mean I knew the basics I just wanted to be 100% sure. I've seen my friends and cousins do this to there cars a bunch of times.

I did it today, and I finished it. It took me forever b/c I was by myself and it was a learning experience.

It sounds great, I just need some new door and rear speakers because the ones in it have been blown

But it's been done for a few hours and i've driven the car and let it sit for some time and it seems to be functioning properly. I'm happy with it

PS: I'm inbetween Denver, and Reading (i'm about a 5 minute drive from rhs13's house)

Thanks


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