The A/C controls light up just fine, and I can hear the compressor click on. Also, when you set it on Max, you can hear a click behind the glove box. (I'm guessing this is a relay/actuator for the high speed)

But no air flow out of the vents. None. The system appears to be working properly, but no flow.

Here's the strange part: Sometimes it works perfectly fine.

Anyone had this wierd problem?

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EDIT: Just reread your original post. Maybe it's an intermittant electrical connection - a broken mix door wouldn't fix itself.

There is no sound coming from the blower (when it's not working) but I can hear the other parts function normally. (mix door motor makes normal brief sounds when buttons are pressed)

As usual, parts seem to break when stressed the most. In florida summer, AC's take a beating. And in the dead of winter, ya gotta use the heater alot.

Thanks. I will update in case anyone finds the solutions helpful.

The use of evap air filter is another problem as people don't want to spend money changing them..............damed if you do and damned if you don't

Every AC system is tested in Arizona at 120F brand new unfortunately they cannot magically correct owner abuse by failure to service and maintain system.

Few owners change the oil, vacuum system, replace receiver dryers, remove and clean condensers allowing a year by year decline in performance.

The bulk of the systems usually last at least thru warranty [4 years]without degrading enough for average owner to notice. DAMAGE has been done but the lack of mainteance continues until a serious failure occurs.

Most smart people have their home ac serviced/checked annually, yet they wait on cars until it fails?

Wes has a nice little post about cleaning the evaoprator coils, and there are a couple of other threads on repair and maintenance.

Modified by maxnix at 4:42 PM 7/6/2007

Discover the power of the button!

I remove and clean my condensers and evaps periodically, as I do with rad........use a fin straightener tool.

Condensers are inexpensive aftermarkets $85-$150 depending on year.
Evaps and valve are the expensive replacements

Thanks for all the input!! It was the motor brushes, worn down too far to make proper contact. So I purchased a new motor for $99 from AutoZone. It was a special order, which takes a couple days to come in. In the meantime, I figured I would clean up the whole system and hopefully still have AC for the couple days untill the new part comes in. Removing the fan is easy, and opening the motor up and cleaning it is also easy. As mentioned by Jesda, you can get some more life out of the old motor by simply cleaning and adjusting the brushes.

I only did this to verify the problem and to get working AC while I wait for the part. (its hot as heck right now)

Here's the pics:

(notice the NiCO ECU thanks again guys

Once you get the fan out of the car, it opens with a couple screws and then everything slides apart easilly.

Brushes worn so far that the wires are catching on the brush housings, causing them not to extend fully to reach the motor.

This is obviously something you want to clean... The fan blade assembly comes off the motor shaft with one small nut. I soaked it for about an hour in hot water, then scrubbed with a small brush under running water.

Re-assembly is easy, but while you're at it, go ahead and open up as much of the system as you can and clean inside it. Your AC will smell better and feel fresher, not to mention function more efficiently.

Similar situations with starters, alternators, wiper, window, sunroof, seat motors.

10-13 years is a long time without maintenance.........even with!

My 90Q has a fan motor from a 1995 wreck that sat a few years but still its getting old and squeeks when cold.

See the rubber cooling duct to cool and clean commutator.

Thanks.

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" I don't want to take it to a mechanic {?} and he tells me I'll need a complete overhaul or something."

Why would you take an AC system to a MECHANIC when you need a Certified AC Technican to diagnose.

About every 10-12 years that's exactly what cars need a complete overhaul .......................the $2,000 worth of ac parts need replacing.

Only half of depreciation is the new wearing off and paint dulling, the other half is the amount of money you eventually will spend to rehabilitate systems.

Why would I take it to a mechanic? Maybe because I have no clue what the problem is or how to fix it. Seeing as this person has some sort of automotive training, at least they'll be able to diagnose the problem and refer me to a "Certified AC Technician". Dig?

Well my car hasn't been involved in a wreck. I don't know why it's not blowing cold. My refrigerant level is full, I can't add any more.

What's making it not blow cold?

1.) There's two bolts/screws inside the glovebox. Open the glovebox and you'll see two caps (one on either side of the storage area) covering the screws. Pop off the black felt caps with a small flathead screwdriver, and there they are.

2.) Pop off the lower plastic shin guard below the glovebox. It's just in with pop clips. Now you can see the rest of the bolts and screws. I forget how many you actually have to take off, but I just kept removing screws till the glovebox fell on my head lol.

There ya go. Sorry I'm late... busy with insurance a-holes. (see my other new post for a sad demise of a good Q45)

I imagine that this problem will become fairly widespread over the next couple years, as more and more fans are reaching the end of their life.

And remember the number one rule of auto parts: parts will typically fail when they are stressed the most. For A/C parts: summertime.

The engine coolant has very little to do with the A/C. What you problabley need is more freon in the A/C system. Take it toa mechanic that cahrges A/C systems, and he maybe can fix you up for about $150.

Lola - 94 Q45t, 203K miles Ice T - 00 I30t Sport, 150K miles Lana - 04 M45, 53K miles

But it still doesn't blow cold.

Does this clear everything up?

Unfortunately, you may have to take it to an AC specialist. Will probly be $100 to $200

Quote, originally posted by db_autotek »

Ohhh noo... thats right!! It should take the old R12 not the 134a. If you added 134a to a system full of R12 then theres gonna be problems.

Kind of hard to mix refrigerants out of sheer ignorance since the hi and low pressure connections where you hook up the hoses are different. My guess is that you're looking at another compressor or have overfilled with regfrigerant. See me if you end up needing one. When doing major work such as compressor replacement, it makes sense to go ahead and convert to R134. Search my posts for info as I've done this and am enjoying the benefits.

Not only does this NOT clear everything up,but it is the perfect recipe to screw everything up-you now have no idea how much refrigerant is in the system,and if the level of refrig.{high? low? exact amount?} is contributing to your problem of inadequate cooling! proper a/c work diagnosis can only begin after getting the freon level EXACT-and the ONLY way to do that is by a proper evav/recharge-then you can rule out freon level as a factor and keep looking if necessary-----why a/c work is best left to professionals,which are not found at autozone

Ha haa ha. I prefer the occasional use of the elusive and secret "Cherokee indian A/C dance" and is more effective since chicken feet and gypsy dust are harder to find for the common Voodoo practitioner. lol