Startup Help Needed

[kingdutka]

I have done my research and used the search button already. I have been asking questions here and there on these forums about this already too, but it's time to start my own thread. I'll try to keep it short:

1992 Nissan 240sx VertSR20DET SwapMT Swap

Mechanic did all the work but didn't get the engine running. I took it home, rechecked the wires using the Shift_180 DVD and found the ignitor was wired up wrong. Re-wired it and no luck.

Disconnected Ignitor, put standard "light tester" on the wires from ECU and turn key to "Start". Light blinks every 1.5 seconds (guesstimate). Does this for all 4 wires coming out of ECU.

Reconnect Ignitor, run same test with "light tester" and no blinking occurs.

Disconnect Ignitor, test a 3rd time, blinking resumes.

I bought a new ignitor and the day before it arrived, I went out and for some reason ran the above test again (part 1, no ignitor) and blinking has ceased...

Any ideas why? My first guess is that the ECU is bad. What do you all think?

I went ahead and bought a new ECU on ebay. That was my very last dollar of spending money all scraped up, so if it doesn't work, I don't know what I am going to do... go postal?

The ECU I bought looks pretty sweet: Mine's Tuned ECU
Modified by kingdutka at 8:11 PM 6/12/2007

[IanS]

If I would have seen this thread sooner I would have said you can borrow one of my ECUs for a tester, If you need a hand tinkering I might be able to come up and take a look at the car later this week. The new transmission should be in the WRX Im working on by tomorow. What days are you free, we could try and work somthing out.

[kingdutka]

I have school in the morning. I am out by 10am Monday/Wednesday and 1pm Tuesday/Thursday. Other than school, my car is my number one priority until it is running. Any help would be totally AWESOME. How about you email me? [email protected]

[kingdutka]

The ECU I bought looks pretty sweet: Mine's Tuned ECU

This guy says he has one more ECU just like this one. If anyone wants it, I will give you his contact info.

[kingdutka]

So no ideas, or does everyone just think I am doing the right thing already? I REALLY need this done. This is my ONLY car. I have been without a car since February and I am supposed to be moving tomorrow. If I don't get this fixed by then, I am going to REALLY be in trouble for transportation. Like stated above, I already spent every last spending dollar I had, so alternative transportation methods until this is fixed are severely limited to rides from friends and family. Considering school is over 30 minutes away by car and I have a wife and 2 kids, we are growing more desperate by the minute. Please don't let me sell my baby! I wouldn't be able to live with myself!

[kingdutka]

I pulled the entire JDM harness out of the car and have been trying to follow the DVD from Wiring Specialties, but some of my wire colors don't match what they are saying in the DVD, and worse, I have duplicates of other wires! I don't know which ones to use and which to tuck away... I could take some pics of my harness and the KA plug I am trying to mate it to if that would help. Just let me know.

Rather than not give enough info, here is a list of the wires I am confused about:

PLEASE HELP WITH THIS PART!

Mating SR harness to KA power: SR Side: Thick Blue/Red, Blue/Yellow, Blue/Red, Black, Green/Yellow x2, Red, Blue/Green, Black/White, Black/Red, Brown, Green/Orange, Black/Yellow, Black/Pink, Red/Black KA Side - Gray Plug: Orange/Blue, Green/Yellow, Red, Blue/Green, Green/Blue, Black/White, Black/Red KA Side - Brown Plug: Red/Black, Black/Pink, Black/Yellow, Green/Orange, Brown, Pink

I matched all like colors together, but the 2 Green/Yellows on the SR side throw me off because there is only one on the KA side. The brown KA plug has a left over pink. The gray KA plug has left over orange/blue and green/blue. The SR side has left over green/yellow (was I supposed to connect both to the one KA wire?), blue/red, Thick blue/red, blue/yellow, and black.

This next part is 2n most important

Ok, so once we get that straightened out, we can move on to the dash interface.

When I got my car back from the shop, there were wires coming from the ECU that are cut and taped back. I don't remember anything in the DVD saying to do this. They are as follows:

Pin 104, Red/WhitePin 7, Green/BlackPin 14, Green/WhitePin 23, Green/RedPin 15, GreenPin 25, Orange/Black (my diagram shows this as orange)

Also, when trying to trace the roots of the 2 Green/Yellow wires mentioned above, I noticed 2 on the ECU. When I looked them up in my diagram, it shows that Pin 106 should be Green/Black (mine is green/yellow) and Pin 10 is not used, yet I have my 2nd Green/Yellow going in there. I also have a Blue/White wire coming out of the harness at the ECU, but not connected to anything and no matching wires are cut off the ECU plug or the instrument cluster interface.

Lastly, here are the wires as they come out of my instrument interface:

These are all mated to a matching color on the ECU plug:Blue/BlackYellow/RedYellow/GreenBlue/GreenOrangeBlackThe rest of these are not connected to anything:GreenGreen/BlackGreen/YellowGreen/WhiteGreen/RedRed

That's about it. I think it took me over 1/2 hour just to type this up, so hopefully someone can help and hopefully it will benefit the whole community getting an answer.

Thanks SideWays=Smiles for coming over today and trying to help me out!

[kingdutka]

I contacted Yury at wiringspecialties.com and got some info. He said for the Power and Dash plugs, simply match color for color and whatever doesn't have a match, leave it. There's more...

For the power plug, the SR side has a Black/White and a Blue/Red that are both thick. BOTH of these attach to the Black/White thick wires on the KA plug together. Also, the SR side has TWO green/yellows. One is used for A/C and the other is not used. Since this car has no A/C, I don't need either.

As for the dash side, match color for color, and whatever is left over from either the SR, the ECU plug, or the KA dash plug, all gets left behind. (For me, this was only 3 wies total).

I am now 100% sure the wiring has been done properly. I went to test start the engine, but I still get nothing. (It cranks but won't start. Fuel and air is good, no spark). Ignitor is new.

ECU is NOT sending a signal to ignitor! I tried hooking up a light bulb tester to each of the wires coming from the CAS while my wife cranked the engine. ONE wire has constant power (doesn't matter if key is in "on" or "start" position) while the other 3 wires do nothing. Does this mean the CAS is bad, or is my test not valid for some reason?

Lastly, I'll need to know how to read the red LED on my ECU for error codes. I have no idea what the blinking means. Looks like morse code to me... may as well be japanese! Oh wait, I think it is! Crap... what do I do?

[drkidd22]

I don't know what king you are using to test the signal coming from the ECU to the igniter, but remember thats in the milivolts range, I use a multimeter and can see the changes when the key is turned over. I also contacted Yury and talked to someone @ heavyThrole and they both told me that it sounds like a short and to look for power wiring shorting out or something, so today I'm taking out the altenator, AC, and starter complete hardness out and check it out since my starter came with a cable cut in half but I fixed that and it worked, might have been cut for a reason before??? let me find out. Good luck to you too man, I been reading your thread too to get some ideas.

[kingdutka]

Kidd, my harness is brand new and has been triple checked.

I checked my ECU and got 2 error codes (I believe 11 and 21) which points at the CAS. Is there a way to test if it is the actual sensor, or just the wiring for it?

[drkidd22]

Well I'm not the best one to be asking questions about car wiring, even dought I did my own, I do have a good background in electronics. But from my understanding of how the ECU works the CAS is only really for timing purposes so that the ECU can send the signal to the igniter to get a spark. Soyou should be able to get a spark without the CAS plugged or if its bad, but timing will be bad, first try to get your spark going as I'm trying, it's kinda cold here to take out the power hardness out my car so I'll till 2moro to do that. Did you test to see if your coils get hot when you have the ignition switch in the ON position? do you aim ?

[kingdutka]

None of my wires or coils get even a little warm. Yury also told me the CAS is probably ok. At any rate, Trisha (the car) is going to go spend some time with her family until she feels better (taking her to a Nissan Dealer for repair). The one I am going to has a guy that has been working at that Nissan Service Shop for 25 years and happens to specialize in electronics. Once he gets it all fixed, I'll post what he found and how he fixed it. I don't know how long it'll take because I don't have money to pay them at the moment. Could be 3-6 weeks.

[IanS]

Well I'm not the best one to be asking questions about car wiring, even dought I did my own, I do have a good background in electronics. But from my understanding of how the ECU works the CAS is only really for timing purposes so that the ECU can send the signal to the igniter to get a spark. Soyou should be able to get a spark without the CAS plugged or if its bad, but timing will be bad, first try to get your spark going as I'm trying, it's kinda cold here to take out the power hardness out my car so I'll till 2moro to do that. Did you test to see if your coils get hot when you have the ignition switch in the ON position? do you aim ?

the CAS tells the ECU what the engine speed is and when to make spark, without it, no spark will be made at all.

Kidd, my harness is brand new and has been triple checked.

I checked my ECU and got 2 error codes (I believe 11 and 21) which points at the CAS. Is there a way to test if it is the actual sensor, or just the wiring for it?

the reason you are showing the CAS codes is because we had the CAS unplugged while cranking remember.