This is only for questions and specific answers that may be related to any 240 / 180 / Silvia.

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THE 240SX Info/Introduction/FAQ Thread (Combined)

240sx How-to ARTICLES

THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!
How do I search? You click that button.

So you are new. You can read the Stickies (which we are working to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.

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maybe 120-150 horses. gonna be a nightmare if youre gonna try to piece something together off of just the longblock. - srpowered240sx -

140 at the crank? - Mr1der -

Id say about the same as a ka24de. 100 at the wheel? - adrians_s13 -

136 or 138 iirc
not enough, lets put it that way, and youre better off buying a det than trying to turbo the de - nismofly -

here is the answer. according to dyno tests that were performed on the B13 Se-R the SR20De has approximately 120whp. depending on sea level and humidity etc. which isnt bad considering the manufactured claimed HP is 140 to the crank. the engine has not changed much since is discontinuance in 2001. keep in mind in addition to the SR20DET there is also the non-US SR20VE which is one bad little 4 banger and i think at least 1 more version of the SR20. - VMPhil -

are the wheels se wheels? If your running steelies w/ hubcaps, I'd be concerned with tire rubbing on your front springs. I recommend getting probably 205/50 or like 215's at the most.

I dont think your gonna fit them, my s13 wont clear 16x7's up front without spacer, and that was on 205 60 16

and this is the best evar thread, now I only have to get the ones not in here.

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r.i.p. Dad I miss you
06/14/54~04/18/09
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r.i.p. Lee
09/01/89~09/28/06

The motorsets won't cost you more than 5K. The swap however will be a LOT more. Set aside a budget as high as 12K if you want it done right.

Thanks

Not that I know of I could be wrong though.

Quote, originally posted by DRiFTn’REALTOR »

2. Second I wanted to re-do my brakes, just OEM for now until I get some wheels to fit larger brakes. Maybe service the brake booster? and definitely change out the brake pads and lines. (front & back)

Brakes are one of those areas that are debatable. For street use and occasional track usage, stainless lines, slotted rotors, and a good set of brake pads will be all the braking you'll need. If you see some dedicated track use I'd say to step up to Q45 2 piston calipers and rotors up front and the usual stainless lines and pads which is ideal because they retain the stock caliper profile so you don't have to have special wheels. For extreme Track duty 30MM Z32 4 piston caliper brakes are ideal. The only issue with these is that they will require dedicated wheel hunting and a 5 lug conversion (in most cases).

Quote, originally posted by DRiFTn’REALTOR »

3. I would really appreciate if someone can point me in the right direction for an LSD. I have never purchased an LSD before and so far I'm hearing $800? Isn't that kind of steep...What the difference between 1 way....1.5 way...and 2 way???

That is about the standard price for a good LSD. 2 way LSD's have locking capabilities under both acceleration and deceleration conditions. 1.5 on accel and some decel. 2 way will be very harsh for street use and might cause a lot of cornering noise.

Quote, originally posted by DRiFTn’REALTOR »

4. This will be my most critical stage...the Chasis/suspension. I plan on reenforcing the chasis with front and rear strutbars...(please feel free to let me know what are better parts and their prices.) Bigger sways and bushings. Will take in other suggestions for Chasis upgrade. Where can I find aftermarket tie rods, steering components, and arms?? What should I do with my rear-end?? Any suggestions on suspension??Thanks

The rear end on the 240sx is good for almost 500whp. No need to fool with it for most people. All the suspension parts you'll ever want are available at http://www.frsport.com. I've personally dealt with them and they are second to none price or customer service wise. Suspension is really hard to say. I'd say an entry level coilover system like Stance would be perfect and wont break the bank too bad LOL.

Quote, originally posted by DRiFTn’REALTOR »

5. Wheels will also be upgraded very soon...after the LSD. I plan on putting 18's, but will settle for something smaller is needed. What offsets do u recommend if I wanted to run something with a decent lip?? I don't really want spacers if possible, but Id like the rims to flush out with the body. Thanks

Wheels pwn me honestly. adrian_s13 is the man you wanna talk to. He knows his wheels.

S13 or S14 will do, but i prefer the S14.

also - i know this has probably been answered a thousand times - but is it worth it to buy an already swapped sr20det motor in say an s13, or start from scratch?

good question, they for their time IMHO were decent, they have week points which all cars do. The colors could have been better too. Just go check a few out,look for low mileage IF you can.

as for the swap it all depend my man,you could get some guy who just wants out and the motor has been taken care of OR you can get the guy that knows he dawg'd the shizz out of it and never looked at the oil more or less changed it. If the price is too good including the swap look forward to issues. Hell I paid good for my car and it is a lemon(well the previous owner was)
good luck and try to be patient

as far as buying a swapped 240... sure why not. But it really kinda depends on the car. You really have to check the car out thoroughly before actually purchasing (I can't emphasize that enough). I've seen some really half asssed swaps with wiring everywhere, and there are some really clean swaps. Other than that... just do the regular check up (i.e. compression test on cylinders, compression on radiator, etc.).

soooo.. anyone?

There are a very helpful and friendly group BTW.

My question is: What is the purpose of the 5-lug conversion? Is this just for looks since some wheels only come in 5-lug or is there a performance option that becomes available by switching from 4 to 5 lugs.

I've also seen a lot of posters simply replying with 'Search'. This doesn't really help considering most threads that get started that way show up through searching. Thus having 50 topics with one word replies 'Search'. If the topic is easy to help someone with, why not simply answer instead of being a jerk about it. (Though I guess this is more of a character issue)

Newbies have to start somewhere you know. Help us out! I'm glad this thread got started.

Hi 240ingthe240er, welcome to NICO. The sole purpose of a 5 lug conversion is to have more wheel fitment options. Most 4x114.3 wheels you'll see will be limited to around 7.5 inches wide with an offset (Distance from half of the lip of the wheel to the outside edge of the wheel) of around +40

One can get higher offsets and wider tires, and more wheel selection by going 5 lug. Additionally, most big brake kits (Z32 Twin Turbo 30mm brakes included) won't clear wheels without a higher offset (there is more to the clearance that this actually, most important is the design of the spokes themselves. More info can be found here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/81407

You can use my engine as the DIY (I wont charge you, but do it right. ) hehehehe.... no honestly, someone do it..

DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility in any damage/harm/death/missing limbs that may result from following the above advice.

The lower the offset, the further away from the car the wheel will be. Finding a 4 lugger with a low offset and desireable size and width is harder, but not impossible. And like redtop said, it depends on spoke design if you want to clear baller brakes, but its nothing a few spacers can't handle.

Thank you so much for the clarification and link. This really is a lot more helpful than I could have ever expected.

Although I bought my S13 far before the 240 craze, it is very realistic to have a boosted (Either SR or KA) for around 5k and daily drive it. I DD my SR. With that budget you can build a pretty fast fun track car. I'd go into more specifics but I'll need you to tell me what you want out of the car.

Quote, originally posted by adrians_s13 »

I think you mean lower offsets... I can find 4x114.5 18x7 +40 tenzo R's all day lol.

Oops. Yeah lower offsets.

Quote, originally posted by 240ingthe240er »

Thank you so much for the clarification and link. This really is a lot more helpful than I could have ever expected.

Hahahaha no problem man. Stick around. You'll learn a lot from this site if you know where to look.

Modified by redtop91 at 1:18 PM 5/17/2007

Other then the daily driving, I will mostly be using this car for weekend drifting and occasional track use.

I would say 1.5 way for street. More forgiving when decelerating and when you let off the throttle.

Quote, originally posted by JimmyMethod »

Plus she'd probably start bitching and crying about how "I wanted you to put it in my *****, THEN my ***, THEN my mouth! You ruined everything! My life is over!" I wouldn't want to deal with that ****.

with 7 k you could almost have a fully built ka24det thats fairly reliable. with a nice size budget like said you can buy a car and have the engine rebuilt to stock spec and drive her for a good 100 miles with lil to NO worries about reliability .... but then again that 10 k can get you a kia with 100000 mile warrany thats new
just a couple thoughts for yah. think about it its an old car unless you get a 98s14 then its only 10 years old and thats old

at least you are willing to wait for a good deal,that means you might take the car to a shop to have it checked out....

Yea I could buy a new car for a similar price, and have a warranty and all that, and I definitely haven't took that option off the table. But I seem to be fixated on imports and tuning and all that. Plus I love the S13 and S14. I'm definitely in no hurry to buy the car and I know a few people who would check out the car also.

S13 Chassis- $3000

SR20DET Redtop- $2000

HKS 264 Cams- $500

GT2871R .64 A/R- $1200

Front mount intercooler Kit- $500

BOV- $300

550cc Injectors- $500

ECU reflash- $400

Koyo Radiator and Fans- $700

Z32 MAF- $300

= $9100 and $600 left over to spend on whatever. And that is only provided you want 400whp. Naturally as you scale down a lot of price is reduced.

Thanks. That definitely helps me out alot. Appreciate it.