Completing that Awesome wiring guide from FRSport...

[AmoebAssassin]

http://www.frsport.com/sr20det....html

As we all know, this is the best writeup yet for S13SR => s13 chassis currently available. Again as well all know, this writeup does have some holes. My goal in this thread is to rectify some of the holes to the best of my ability, based on issues I had when wiring up my own car, a 1991 KA24DE 240sx Fastback.

Issue #1: Green/Yellow wire duplicity At the end of the guide, below figure 5, they tell you to connect the green/yellow on the KA plugs to the green/yellow on the SR harness. They do not mention, however, that there are two green/yellows on both the KA plugs and the SR harness. Both of the green/yellows on the KA plugs' pigtail go to the same gray plug. However, looking at the chassis side, there is only one green/yellow on the chassis side of the same gray connector.

Solution to Issue #1 I assumed that the green/yellow on the KA plug pigtail with no match on the gray chassis side KA plug was an extra unused wire. Using the 240sx FSM, I found the single green/yellow on the chassis side gray KA plug to be the A/C relay. With this in mind, I found the A/C relay on the SR ECU pinout (green/yellow) and hooked up the Green/Yellow SR engine harness wire to the corresponding A/C relay wire on the gray KA plug pigtail as I was splicing the KA chassis plugs onto the SR engine harness. I left the other two green/yellows disconnected.

This turns out to be the correct approach to make. When looking closely at the SR engine harness pinouts, one of the Green/Yellows is the AC relay trigger, and the other is an unused wire. Sadly I do not remember pinouts, so the best way to do this is to grab a multimeter and an english S13 SR20 pinout (hard to find but they do exist), and search on the SR engine harness for the Green/Yellow wire that is marked as "AC Relay" or something to that extent. Use the multimeter to find continuity with one of the green/yellow wires at the cut end of the SR harness when you are splicing on the KA chassis plugs. You want the Green/Yellow you just found as the A/C relay on the SR engine harness to match with the Green/Yellow A/C relay trigger on the KA chassis plug (chassis pinouts can be found in any USDM S13 FSM). The extra green/yellow on the SR engine harness is unused and can be capped off and left disconnected, as it does not match up to any pins on the KA chassis harness once the KA chassis plugs are properly spliced on.

Issue #2: O2 sensor power to +12V switched Again in figure 5, they tell you to hook up the brown wire (O2 sensor pwr) to any +12v switched. They do not say where a convenient place to splice in for +12v switched is.

Solution to Issue #2 I looked at the chart below figure 5 and saw ECU Relay (black/red). I spliced into this. This is correct because ECU Relay is the signal for the ECU power relay to come on, and is thus on with the ignition key turned to "on". This is exactly what you need for the O2 sensor, so splice into the black/red ECU Relay signal wire. Take care not to splice into black/white (ECU Power). I am starting to think that the black/white is +12v constant to the ECU relay, and acts as a power supply when the key is out so that the ECU doesnt lose its settings. If you splice your O2 sensor power here, your O2 sensor will always be on, draining your battery and fouling your O2 sensor. Another suitable place to splice the Brown O2 sensor power wire would be iignitor power (Blue/Red), as this is +12V switched as well.

Issue #3: Too many wires coming together at splicing of Black/Red and Blue/Red Finally, again below figure 5 they mention to connect the blue/red and black/red on the SR harness to the black/red wire on the KA plug pigtail. My harness had two blue/red wires. I looked up the ECU pinouts and one of them was coilpack power, and the other was ignitor power. Logically all these need +12V switched, which is what the black/red on the chassis harness provides, however connecting the extra blue/red would make this a four wire junction, not a 3 wire junction as indicated by the writeup.

Solution to Issue #3 Going against the writeup, I hooked up both of the two SR engine harness blue/reds to the SR engine harness black/red, and then all three of these to the KA chassis plug pigtail black/red. This gave me a four-wire junction, wheras the article implies a three-wire junction. Do not be worried, this is how it should be.

Enjoy your running S13SR! I did everything I listed above and my car runs like butter. No stalling, stumbling, hesitation, etc. I removed my AC after the swap so I could not test my green/yellow wire assumption, but i am 100% sure that is the way to remedy the problem, as one of the green/yellows on the KA chassis harness is unused (as is one on the SR engine harness) and the other is listed as A/C Relay (again, as is one on the SR engine harness).

Please post any discrepancies you may find in the hopes of making the FRSport writeup 100% complete for NICO members, and the 240sx community in general.
Modified by AmoebAssassin at 12:25 AM 11/19/2006

[goj_cloud]

oj and what about the o2 connector that you have to extend, in figure 3 it says the colors is brown/yellow,white,and,brown. mone is black,white,and orange.

[Hijacker]

So added to the FAQs sticky

[spider_slayer]

where the hell did you find an 13sr english fsm? i'll mail you a cookie to turn it into a pdf.

[FSUDrifter]

where the hell did you find an 13sr english fsm? i'll mail you a cookie to turn it into a pdf.

S13 SR20DET English Pinout:http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUD...5.pdf

[whiplash willy]

What is the deal with the 2 Blue/red wires? I only have one on my harness. I havn't heard much about this problem, but i saw someone else had this problem too:

zerothread?id=204334

http://www.frsport.com/sr20det....html

Issue #3: Too many wires coming together at splicing of Black/Red and Blue/Red Finally, again below figure 5 they mention to connect the blue/red and black/red on the SR harness to the black/red wire on the KA plug pigtail. My harness had two blue/red wires. I looked up the ECU pinouts and one of them was coilpack power, and the other was ignitor power. Logically all these need +12V switched, which is what the black/red on the chassis harness provides, however connecting the extra blue/red would make this a four wire junction, not a 3 wire junction as indicated by the writeup.

Solution to Issue #3 Going against the writeup, I hooked up both of the two SR engine harness blue/reds to the SR engine harness black/red, and then all three of these to the KA chassis plug pigtail black/red. This gave me a four-wire junction, wheras the article implies a three-wire junction. Do not be worried, this is how it should be.

[tiger]

Hey, I have, I think, 6 wires (left over) that came from the brown plug that do not have matches... is this normal or have I done something wrong? There are a few striped wires, a solid pink one too... can someone let me know if these are important?


Modified by tiger at 12:08 PM 5/17/2007

[AmoebAssassin]

What is the deal with the 2 Blue/red wires? I only have one on my harness. I havn't heard much about this problem, but i saw someone else had this problem too:

zerothread?id=204334

If you've got one wire, that's fine -- just solder it up as the guide says.

[AmoebAssassin]

Hey, I have, I think, 6 wires (left over) that came from the brown plug that do not have matches... is this normal or have I done something wrong? There are a few striped wires, a solid pink one too... can someone let me know if these are important?



Modified by tiger at 9:36 AM 5/17/2007

Have you gone through both charts to double check that none of the wires need to be hooked up?

[tiger]

Every Wire on the FR Sport writeup listed, I hooked up...(Except A/C wires) All the wires from the large gray plug are all connected.. the small brown one has a few connected from it and the rest do not have any mates that come from the SR harness. There is a solid pink wire, solid blue wire, a brown wire, and a couple others...

[tiger]

anyone have these extra wires like me?? Anyone?

[lazeballz]

Hello - Im new to the forums, but ive been helping my buddy on his sr20 wiring harness.

Started both uncut SR20det (redtop) "uncut" harness and ka24 uncut.

i had to resolder and secure the exposed "uncut" lines from our parts dealer...no biggie. I too had extra lines. I followed FRsports wiring diagram and had some questions myself.

1.) F10 Connector (brown one) has 8 wires. reading it from left to right with the clip on the right should be:

gr/o - Neutral position switch, brown - 12 volt sensorsblk/y- air regulator, Yel/red - power steering oil switchblk/pink - fuel pump relay Pink - AIV Solenoid (to consult)red/blk - ECU relay and yel/blu - 5th gear switch.

according to FR sports, the brown wire for 12 volt sensor should be with the main ignition line, which gets switched on. issue im having is why cant we mate the brown F10 connector line on to the sr20 harness? doesnt it do the same thing? Instead of me finding out, ill just follow the guide and just keep it like the suggest.

because of this - when I mated ka F10 connector - i am left with 4 extra wires that really dont have anything to do with the swap running: 5th gear (yelblu) AIV Solenoid (pink), PS switch (yelred), and the extra 12 volt (brown)

can anyone confirm this?

one thing that tripped me out is that connections from the F10 connector would be mated on to the F9 connector (grey plug)

in then end i am with 6 wires that are not used.4 on F10 connector and 2 on F9 - which i believe are not needed on the srswap

[Nissan786]

S13 SR20DET English Pinout:http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUD...5.pdf

Any one know if the pinout fsuDrifter linked is a %100 right just wanna check before i go and make more problems for my swap.

[trsebert]

I just wanted to thank you guys for posting this. I just completed the 3 week, 6K$ swap of my dreams tonight because of the information you have provided. I had everything wired up, ready to go last week, only to discover i had to power to the coil packs, furthermore no spark. After reading this guide tonight, i realized the inaccuracy of frsports guide had steered me slighly wrong. I had not soldered the second B/R wire into a junction with the main ignition (B/R) and the brown O2 sensor (5 wire junction, massive hunk of solder, but don't worry, its solid). Car started, first crank. Thanks again guys.