Possibly a bad FPR?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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skillzilla
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Well ever since I reswapped my motor Ive been dealing with it running super mad rich. During the reswap I was forced to replace the CAS, cam pulleys, ignitor, etc. Since then I have timed it I dont know how many times, replaced the ignitor, coil packs, plugs, re-timed it some more, etc. It still runs rish.

Now Im thinking I have a bad FPR, because it just seems to be getting too much fuel. I have a GTR fuel pump, and never touched the FPR. Today while the car was idling I pinched the vacuum line going to the FPR with my fingers, and it didnt change the idle at all. I pretty much completely closed the air line off.

Could this mean I have a bad FPR? I know the line is getting a vacuum source because my E-01 is t'd off the FPR line and works fine.

Any ideas?


Joe
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your idle wont change if you remove vacuum to the FPR. you are only talking about a few PSI change in the fuel rail.


AxiOn419
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JJ, whats up man.. Of course I am no help to you but yeah your car was dissapointing at braggin rights. I hope you get everything figured out. I am still in the process of finding a new chassis to swap my engine into.. Getting into a wreck sucks :\

I'd also like your input on the topic I just made. Post there or hit me up on AIM or even call my cell if you happen to have the number still. Talk to you later man

27RB240
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AxiOn419 wrote:JJ, whats up man.. Of course I am no help to you but yeah your car was dissapointing at braggin rights. I hope you get everything figured out.


Yea man, i didnt know if it was launches or what....I wish I could help but heres what I came up with........1. has the car cut at random or anything before, or anything like another vac leak somewhere???2. It could be the coolant temp sensor maybe... Any more details?? does it run rich constantly? when its hot? anything???

BTW if u dont remember me, I am det.'s cousin... I rode with him when you guys did the cruise....4E swapped tercel then.....

IronMonkey
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Have you checked your BOV? Is it recirculating or vented? Hows the adjustment screw?

27RB240
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Not recirculating (the last i heard)...Cifero motor......I doubt they dont have the recirculating issue since they didnt have Bovs....

AxiOn419
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Yeah, Im pretty sure skillzilla has a cefiro engine with an atmospheric BOV

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rb240det
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Car: 1991 240sx Hatchback and 1994 300zx

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Did you check your O2 sensor? Are you still running the factory FPR that came with your motor, or did you replace it yet?

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skillzilla
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hahahah nice response time peeps

I have an atmospheric BOV, but I did before on my old setup too and didnt have issues. I also have the factory FPR and original O2 sensor. Car is throwing no codes.

It runs rish from the get go, and stays rich all the time. It is most prevalent when shifting gears, so I was at first thinking its the bov, but I put in a super-mega-heavy spring so it wouldnt open and still did it.

And yeah I was kinda dissapointed at BR, I had some traction issues for sure, and a lot of wheel hop (all of my subframe bushings have decided to errode into nothing, thats my next fix). Im not a huge fan of drag racing anyways, so its all good

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skillzilla
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Ohh, forgot to mention, I have an auto-manual swapped car, and something is up with my reverse lights and neutral sensor I think. Basically my reserve lights come on any time Im in gear. Im thinking my reserve sensor and neutral sensor got mixed up in the transition. Could this be whats causing my problems?

Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
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There's no way you could get the reverse and neutral sensors connected wrong since they have two different plugs, but as far as wiring goes you'll have to troubleshoot that yourself. I went from auto to manual too and still don't know why my reverse lights don't come on either.

This might be a dumb answer, but maybe your stock fpr can't bypass enough fuel put out by the GTR pump to bring the pressures down to ~40 psi. I don't know if this could be the case since I've never had a GTR pump, but I know they flow a hell of a lot of fuel. Did this problem just start happening out of the blue or when you installed the fuel pump?

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skillzilla
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I redid the swap and changed the fuel pump at the same time, Im thinking of going back to the stock pump and seeing what happens.

Darius
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why not just buy an aeromotive fpr and a B&M gauge to screw into the side of it and verify that your fuel pressure is right?

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skillzilla
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Because that would require BUYING something Ill prolly get around to doing that next week, though.

Darius
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hahaha i know what you mean. I've dropped around $3500 the past two months on this thing and I haven't even gotten to drive it more than 200 yds.

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skillzilla
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COuld a mod merge this thread with the one below please?

thanks

zerothread/189821

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skillzilla
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Quick update, I unplugged the O2 sensor and the problem stopped, so Im going to replace it and see what happens.

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rotorimp
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Bad temp sensor will cause it to run rich too. If you replace the o2 sensor and it still does the same thing---look at the sensors that are not being used during open loop.

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skillzilla
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I just replaced the temp sensor, no change.

27RB240
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Mhmmmm theres nothing else I can think of man....Good luck with everything!!

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Carl H
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get a fuel pressure gauge on the motor, that will let you know with the quickness whats up.

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skillzilla
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Im almost positive its the O2. Putting a new one on tonight will give an update tomorrow after I test it out.

27RB240
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Up for a friend.......Not to go off subj. but dang i saw your car a few minutes ago...you were at the red light and I was at the shell station... dang the car look soo great(good luck on the sale), and it sounds soo nice!!!!! Any luck btw???

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skillzilla
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I am 99% its my O2 tripping out because my turbo is burning some coolant. I have a new replacement snail goin on this weekend, if that doesnt fix it Imma sell it for a dollar, I swear thanks for the llokout, what were you driving?

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rb240det
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Dude, you're selling your car?

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skillzilla
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Yeah its been up for sale for awhile but I havent got an offer I like yet. Will prolly sell it at Nopi.

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skillzilla
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Quick update:

Replaced the turbo with one that has perfect seals, and its still screwing up. Replaced the O2 with a new Z31 unit, still screwing up. Soooo, I started unplugging stuff to see if it made any changes. I may be going vrazy but nothing I unplugged seems to do anything Maybe Im just getting frustrated...

Anyways, still could be a bad FPR I suppose, even though I unhooked the vacuum line to it and it actually did idle worse, same other issues though.

Some clarification also. The car runs rich all the time, but every now and then it just completely kills itself. It will BARELY even drive, so much black smoke I dont know, its crazy. Bucks and kicks, etc. If I dont rev it at idle it will die, and sometimes it wont crank back up for awhile, usually after the ECU has been cycled off and on.

Someone PLEASE help me out, I know there has to be something Im missing. Could it be a bad ECU? When I put the new O2 in it cleared up for a few minutes, ran nice. Then it started all over again.

I have done the following:

replaced/regapped spark plugschecked the timing at the front and rearreplaced the MAFSchecked/rewired all the MAFS wiringreplaced the O2replaced the turbopulled CAS and checked to see it is firing on all 6replaced coolant temp sensor with another used RB20 unitchecked for boost leaks. has a SMALL pinhole on a weld, thats it.unplugged the TPS, MAFS, coolant sensor, IACV, O2, no changes

Things I havent done:

Knock sensors, but no codes for itnew Ignitornew CASnew ECUgrounding systemnew TPS

Any thoughts? Anyone? Im about to light it on fire and claim insurance on a stock 240.

Ramius83
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Sounds like a bad MAF to me. If your MAF is bad it is registering the wrong amount of air entering the engine. So, the ECU thinks that there is a good bit of air entering it, so it compensates this by applying more duty cycle to the injectors. This causes more fuel to enter the engine. Well, if you really aren't getting a lot of air into the engine but you are getting quite a bit of fuel, it will cause some of the symptoms you are talking about, ie. a lot of black smoke, rough idle, engine stalling, etc.

I would try to see if you can find someone that works at a dealership and has a CONSULT that you can use. If you wired your consult plug, I would hook that sucker up and see if you are throwing any DTCs and you can use it to check the functionality of the MAF, sensors, etc.

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skillzilla
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Im not sure if I wired my consult plugs, prolly not. Unless it is somehting integrated into the stock harness, I didnt do anything but the essentials.

I replaced the MAFS already, but I guess there is a chance it was a bad replacement.

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rotorimp
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back probe the maf/tps wires at the ecu--you need to see what the ecu is seeing--if the voltages are within limits I would try another ecu


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