As nistech stated it's a little bit fussy and quite a few steps to get the right things in the right place at the right time....

I would search for you but haven't got the time right now....between school, work and fiance I have no life :|

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1)start vehicle and warm it to operating temp.
2) turn the key off and press the OD button to on position make sure shifter is in park.
3)Turn the key on engine not running make sure the od light comes on for 2 seconds. If it does go to #4 if not post back.
4) turn the key off and shift the trans to D. use the lock release if neccesary. Set the OD switch to off.
5) turn the key on and wait at least 2 seconds. then set OD switch to on.
6) Shift to 1
7) set overdrive switch to off.
8) press accelerator to floor then release it completly
9) set overdrive switch to on.

This will start the OD light to flash your codes. The light will have one long illumination flash then start flashing short blips. Watch the flashes carfully cause one or more of them will stay on slightly longer then the others. There are 10 flashes total. If say it goes like this, first the start signal long flash then
blip..blip..blink.blip..blip..blip..blip..blip..blip..blip. notice how the thrid was a little longer. The would be a 3 which corrospondes to TPS short or open.

When you do it there are 10 posibilities plus a no failure which would be all blips of the light. post back what you have and I can reffrence my manual to see what it is.

Reffrence is a 1992 240sx service manual.

1) Oil pan gasket - In following the instructions for oil pan gasket replacement in the manual, it says to drop the front suspension cross member to get access to the pan. The motor mounts are on this cross member, not on the frame. Do I need to support the engine in some fashion before dropping this cross member on my head? Also, while I have the pan off, will the crankshaft seals be easily accessed to replace them at the same time as well? (Lying on my back with the car on jack stands, front only). Also, the oil pan took a hit somewhere along the line and is sporting a decent dent on the front (more than likely the source of my leak). I want to replace it, but cannot find anyone who lists a replacement pan (OEM). Any suggestions?

2) Remote gas door and trunk release lever - I pulled the driver's seat out and gained access to this lever. The cable had come off of the lever mechanism completely. I can not figure out, without a picture, how to re-attach the cable. Can you hook a brother up?

If possible just bang the pan back out and flatten the matting surface with the engine so its even. There is no gasket for nissan oil pans just use silicone sealer. I know aftermarket places sell gaskets but the factory uses no gasket.

I have the same yr and model 240 if I get a chance I will snap a shot for ya.

on terminal 31 you should see a constant 5 volts
on terminal 35 you should see a constant voltage reading of less then .2 volts
on terminal 34 you should see about .5volts at idle and a varying voltage when you apply the throttle to above 4 volts at wide open throttle.

This test is done with the key in the on position but the car NOT running.Also the A/T control unit will be plugged in your will be back probing the terminals.

The A/T control unit is locate on the passenger kick panel area next to your heater box. May need to remove the glove box assembly to gain access to it.

Attachment: Autotransdiag92240sx.jpg (64319 bytes, downloaded 6607 times)

Is the A/T control module the brown receptacle located behind the glove box? If so, I found it, disconnected it, and now have easier access to the ECU.

When accessing the pins to test, where do I place the black lead for a ground?

I have found the light green wire with the red tracer, it is the only one I have been able to locate. Pin 35 should be a black wire with silver dots, or completely black? I have been able to locate only one white wire with a blue tracer, but it is nowhere near the other wires, it is more in the middle of the blue receptacle.

More rookie questions:

I have disconnected the ECU to gain access to the pins, but if I'm testing the ECU, this makes no sense. Do I re-attach the ECU and gain access to the pins some other way? Take the back off the ECU?

Also, I drove the car around the block yesterday, barely. Started fine, idled fine, ran like it was firing on two cylinders when I gave it gas in drive and reverse. It would not go up a slight incline in my driveway. After warm-up, smoothed out for a short distance, then ran like Sh*t again. I live on a hill, and people walking their dogs werer going up hill faster than I was. Did another self-diagnosis of the ECU again when I got back to the garage and .....55's!!!!! What up?! 09quickly

I am thinking you got the wrong connector or something. However your tests will be with it plugged in you will be testing it in operation. You back probe the terminals with a paperclip or t pin. You may have to pop off a sheild that covers all the wires on the connector. Here is an exact picture of the A/T control unit. I do not know off hand what color the connector is. But it should have a 10mm bolt holding it into the control unit.

Attachment: 240ATECUlocation.jpg (32913 bytes, downloaded 6145 times)

Red/Green wire on A/T connector - .394 to 1.3 volts AC, fluctuated quite a bit, then settled at 1.3.
White/Blue wire - .321 volts to 1.17 volts AC, settled at 1.17.
Black wire - 1.158 volts AC.

I forgot if cars are measured in Direct or Alternating current , so I did both. 0 volts DC on all except the black wire, started at 2.7, settled at 0.

If you found that circuit does not have a 5 volt reffrence at the ECM then that means the ECM has failed internally and is not supplying that voltage. That is when we are going to try and find an alternate 5 volt reffrence to tap into to get that circuit going. If It works you should be able to run with it like that.