VDC OFF/Slip

[sergk]

If someone can help me out that would be great. The m35x I got had a bad engine, I got a RWD base model donor car that was vandalized, so pretty much got the engine/transmission and PCM over to the m35x, got the key programmed and everything works great except the VDC OFF and Slip light are on, am I missing something? What sets off those lights? I topped off the brake fluid too!!!

Also yellow cruise light is on but I believe its because the intelligent cruise control sensor is removed.

[LouCast]

So you swapped over the transmission into your X model?

[sergk]

yea engine along with transmission

[CPJ LB]

have you driven your car since completing the swap?

[sergk]

yeah I did, drives perfectly like it should

[CPJ LB]

congrats!! I was thinking that the VDC Off/Slip "warning light" would eventually go away once you drive the car.

do you have a diagnostic code scanner to try and reset

[sergk]

I have a scanner but no engine light is on and showing no codes

[EdBwoy]

Shooting from the hip here, are the rear differentials the same in the RWD and the X? If your wheels are spinning at a different speed than what your ECM/TCM expect at the gear-rpms-vehicle speed combo that could cause a slight issue.

Do you know if your front wheels are being driven as well? I know you said everything works perfectly, but I'm curious about this.

[sergk]

well the front wheels on not driven by the engine, I'm not really sure about the rear diffs being the same between the models, I don't really want to pull the diff also since the car is back together already, I will try to do some research maybe its something small I'm missing, if nothing else works than I guess thats what ill have to do.

[EdBwoy]

I don't think you have to pull them to look at them side by side quite yet. Some internet-owner's manual-FSM searching could tell you the specs. Or you could just look for part numbers stamped/tagged on the pumpkins. Or ask a dealer

And I just wanted to know if you still had the AWD front axle and differential mounted on the car.

[sergk]

I did some research and yeah they do have different ratios, I was able to pull the one off the donor car today and will swap it when I get a chance, hopefully this will work, because it does make sense to me.

AWD ratio 3.692
RWD ratio 3.538

[szh]

Shooting from the hip here, are the rear differentials the same in the RWD and the X? If your wheels are spinning at a different speed than what your ECM/TCM expect at the gear-rpms-vehicle speed combo that could cause a slight issue.

Do you know if your front wheels are being driven as well? I know you said everything works perfectly, but I'm curious about this.

I think you are on the right track (no pun intended ) here!

If the front and rear wheels are turning at significantly different rates, the AWD system can easily get confused and insist the car is slipping badly!

This would also result in seriously poor handling, except that the car is not a full-time AWD - the Nissan system selectively sends torque to the front axle as needed, as I understand.

I could be wrong though ...

Z

[EdBwoy]

I think you are on the right track (no pun intended ) here!
If the front and rear wheels are turning at significantly different rates, the AWD system can easily get confused and insist the car is slipping badly!
This would also result in seriously poor handling, except that the car is not a full-time AWD - the Nissan system selectively sends torque to the front axle as needed, as I understand.
I could be wrong though ...
Z

I see what you did there, and I'm digging it!

This is where I was going though: He replaced the transmission with a RWD transmission and trans computer - good steps. However, the rear axle will not be giving the RPMs that his new trans-TCM combo expects at certain speeds. I'd compare it to replacing your stockies with oversized/undersized wheels.

With utter disregard of what was going on in the back, I was curious if the front pumpkin is just hanging there with no connection to the transmission, now that the X transmission with front driveshaft was gone. (And you're correct they've got the wonderful ATTESA system). Again, I don't think this is a problem because the ABS sensors are still reading wheel speed. Plus the front and back axles will still be rotating at the same speed, and that's how I narrowed down to the AWD->RWD rear differential switch as being the problem here[/b]. I just was curious as to why the original transmission wasn't used.

[LouCast]

Ok let me get this straight, you transferred over the transmission from the RWD donor car and put it on your X model.
1. Are you running a RWD only version now?
2. How did you manage to drive car without going into limp mode due to the valve body in the donor transmission not matching up with TCM and ECU from your X model? From what I know the valve bodies in the transmission are married to the ECU, unless you put in the ECU from the donor car.

[sergk]

Ok so I been on the road for the last week and haven't been on here since.

The front diff and axles on not on the car since the oil pan on the X is different than the RWD. The X model was flooded and previous owner hydrolocked the engine, so that engine/transmission got pulled, I also used the transmission bell housing for my other X model (which is AWD), also the bell housing is different between the models. The X model body and interior is pretty much flawless (except one little spot on exterior) but the RWD was vandalized with one seat torn a little. Easier to get the X fixed up.

Both engine and transmission were replaced from RWD model over to the X since its easier to pull them together as one unit. And yes the ECU was also swapped.

I already pulled the rear diff from the RWD model and will be swapping it out tomorrow, I will keep you guys posted

[The00Dustin]

This post makes me think that changing rear diffs will not resolve your issue:
g37s-3-69-vlsd-rear-diff-upgrade-cliff- ... 67450.html

However, you may still want to change it to avoid a cruise control issue mentioned within. You may also want to read it because he had the lights on after the swap and figured out why (with it not being related to the rear diff).

This thread is another user making the same swap, and a few posts down, he indicates that no lights came on for him:
just-did-my-own-g37sport-diff-swap-on-m45-t576697.html

[sergk]

I kinda agree with you on this because the lights go on immediatly when I turn the car on, not when I start moving, Im about to go change it and hopefully it will go away, but kind of doubting it now.

[sergk]

I just got done changing it out and its still the same thing so The00Dustin was right. I been doing some reading and for some reason believe its the steering angle needs calibration, I guess I will have to take it to the dealer, or if anyone knows someone with a consult around greenville, SC that would be great:)

Also I got the yellow cruise light to go away by putting in the ICC unit on, but my cruise won't set, Im guessing its because the the other issue though

[quinner49er]

[... the car is not a full-time AWD - the Nissan system selectively sends torque to the front axle as needed, as I understand.

I could be wrong though ...

Z

szh, as always, your understanding of the Nissan/Infiniti AWD system is correct. That is why I love my M45X. It has the handling and performance of a rear-drive car on dry road conditions, since it remains essentially 100% rear drive.

On wet or snowy roads, or other slippery conditions, it will transfer up to 50% of the power to the front wheels, as needed, based on the sensors. Not quite full AWD, but enough to keep you out of trouble in most circumstances, especially with the additional help available by engaging the "snow" button.

[LouCast]

I know plenty say its your brake fluid is low, or your brake pads are worn or the camshaft sensor is bad. Those are all good, but it does not address the problem since the SES light is not on, which means there is a problem with ABS or VDC system. Try this method it might help you out, since I have the same dilema, especially if you have the Intelligent cruise control system.
Within 5-15 seconds of turning on the car (motor running), press the up on the cruise tab 5 times and then down 5 times, on your cluster you will see a series of numbers pop up on the LCD which states what gear the car is in. Once you have those numbers go to this link http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2006_M45-M35/acs.pdf and scroll down to ACTION TEST section which will explain the error code.
And just to make sure, you can try to clear the code while it's still running by pressing the cancel button 5 times and then the distance button if you have the Intelligent cruise control system. If done correctly a number 55 will blink in the LCD section of the gear selector indicator. Turn off the car and re-start it and go for a drive above 19MPH and the lights will turn off and remain off if there is no fault, if the fault is still present the lights will turn back on until the error is fixed. It's how I figured what my problem is.