I will be replacing the valve cover gaskets in my '02 Pathfinder and have new OEM gaskets and Permatex Ultra Grey RTV. The FSM says the RTV only goes in the front corners but I'm wondering if I should put a bead of it around the entire perimeter. It has almost 200k miles on it and I really don't want to spend more time, money, or effort to fix the same leak multiple times.
So for anyone that has done the same job what did you do? Did you have any further oil leakage? Thanks.
Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Did this recently, along with threadlocking the powervalve screws, and followed the FSM of only putting in the front corners. Have no problem with leaking. Don't overkill it with permatex all the way around. Just my thought. 
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Good to hear. How tough was it to get the valve covers off after the intake is removed? Looks like there are still some small stuff somewhat in the way.
I plan on checking the powervalve screws too, as well as replacing the PCV valve and spark plugs.
I plan on checking the powervalve screws too, as well as replacing the PCV valve and spark plugs.
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atraudes
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Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Some general advice on the job since it's still fairly fresh in my mind:
If you have aluminum valve covers: make sure you replace the spark plug tube seals if you aren't already. They can be removed and installed with a standard set of seal pullers/drivers. I'd also recommend using new grommets (the rubber washer things behind each of the bolts). Mine were toast and from what I understand they're there to ensure proper pressure on the seal. Hardened and cracked rubber won't help you there.
If you have the black plastic valve covers: buy new ones. The spark plug tube seals are embedded in the cover such that they cannot be removed/replaced without destroying the cover. You can elect to not do this (or buy a used set), but the spark plug tube seals are very well known for cracking over time and leaking oil into the spark plug tubes, causing misfires. At 200k miles, if you don't do it now you should plan on doing it in the next 20-30k if not much sooner. Pulling the covers off will also disturb these seals and expedite the cracking.
When I did mine I also replaced the cooling hoses that were in the way. It got them out of my way and put some new rubber and peace of mind under the hood. I can't say if it's possible to complete the job without removing them but I wasn't up for finding out or getting stuck with a cracked hose if I did end up having to.
The crossover PCV hose that runs between the two valve covers seems to crack for everyone that pulls it off, so I would plan on replacing that as well. I used some bulk heater hose for a year or two with no problems when I pulled it off the first time so you could go that route if you don't feel like dropping the $30 or whatever for it. The rubber grommet that the PCV valve pushes into on the valve cover (assuming you have the push-in style, not the screw-in) will also surely have disintegrated by now as well.
While I'm thinking about it, getting new gaskets for the timing control solenoids (part # 23797-2Y50A) would be prudent as well. They're mounted just in front of the valve covers on the timing cover and I believe taking them off is required in order to access the front cover bolt. They're steel gaskets and I ended up reusing the old ones without a problem so far, but food for thought.
If you have aluminum valve covers: make sure you replace the spark plug tube seals if you aren't already. They can be removed and installed with a standard set of seal pullers/drivers. I'd also recommend using new grommets (the rubber washer things behind each of the bolts). Mine were toast and from what I understand they're there to ensure proper pressure on the seal. Hardened and cracked rubber won't help you there.
If you have the black plastic valve covers: buy new ones. The spark plug tube seals are embedded in the cover such that they cannot be removed/replaced without destroying the cover. You can elect to not do this (or buy a used set), but the spark plug tube seals are very well known for cracking over time and leaking oil into the spark plug tubes, causing misfires. At 200k miles, if you don't do it now you should plan on doing it in the next 20-30k if not much sooner. Pulling the covers off will also disturb these seals and expedite the cracking.
When I did mine I also replaced the cooling hoses that were in the way. It got them out of my way and put some new rubber and peace of mind under the hood. I can't say if it's possible to complete the job without removing them but I wasn't up for finding out or getting stuck with a cracked hose if I did end up having to.
The crossover PCV hose that runs between the two valve covers seems to crack for everyone that pulls it off, so I would plan on replacing that as well. I used some bulk heater hose for a year or two with no problems when I pulled it off the first time so you could go that route if you don't feel like dropping the $30 or whatever for it. The rubber grommet that the PCV valve pushes into on the valve cover (assuming you have the push-in style, not the screw-in) will also surely have disintegrated by now as well.
While I'm thinking about it, getting new gaskets for the timing control solenoids (part # 23797-2Y50A) would be prudent as well. They're mounted just in front of the valve covers on the timing cover and I believe taking them off is required in order to access the front cover bolt. They're steel gaskets and I ended up reusing the old ones without a problem so far, but food for thought.
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Definitely not hard to remove the valve covers once everything is out of the way, requires patience. Just make sure you have all the tools available. A wobble (flexible) ratchet definitely helps, plus an extension. I went ahead and installed a Mishimoto compact 2 oil catch can. Can't believe how much oil these engines throw back into the intake. I would consider that because it makes my Pathy seem to run much better.
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Thanks for the tips and advice. I went ahead and ordered new valve covers as well as the hoses and gaskets mentioned.
Would it be easier and worth it to replace any (or all) of the O2 sensors while I have things apart? I don't have any codes and other than the oil leaks it is running fine. I don't know if they are the original sensors or not but would be willing to replace them if it makes sense to do so at the same time.
Would it be easier and worth it to replace any (or all) of the O2 sensors while I have things apart? I don't have any codes and other than the oil leaks it is running fine. I don't know if they are the original sensors or not but would be willing to replace them if it makes sense to do so at the same time.
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atraudes
- Posts: 1106
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:46 pm
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Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
I replaced the upstream sensors, just because it was so much simpler with everything out of the way. The replacement of the downstreams wouldn't have been any easier. I've heard that oxygen sensors get lazy with age (slower to respond, not as accurate) and replacing them proactively isn't a bad idea. I think I saw a small jump in mileage (.5 - 1 mpg), but it could be coincidental. So, if the extra cost won't hurt too bad I'd say go for it.
If you do end up buying new sensors, check out this thread. I ran into some heartache when hunting down replacements (definitely don't buy OEM in this case; they're grossly overpriced).
If you do end up buying new sensors, check out this thread. I ran into some heartache when hunting down replacements (definitely don't buy OEM in this case; they're grossly overpriced).
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
I finally got around to replacing the valve covers yesterday. Took me about 8 hours total to do both sides. I'm sure I could cut that time down if I had to do it again. I ended up not replacing the O2 sensors. After letting the Ultra Grey setup for 24 hours I fired it up today. It fired right up with no problems (whew!).
The PCV hose from the PCV valve to the intake and the one between the valve covers were very hard and had to be destroyed to remove them. I had bought new ones in anticipation of that happening. I also replaced the spark plugs which looked pretty well used. There was no oil in the spark plug tubes though so I guess the seals were still good. In any case I feel better knowing new covers and gaskets are installed. BTW - the RH plastic valve cover includes the PCV valve.
I bought new gaskets for the timing control solenoids but only had to remove the RH side one to get the valve cover off. I also bought new coolant hoses for the ones by the RH firewall but ended up not having to remove those. I wanted to be prepared though.
The valve covers themselves were a bigger PITA than the intake. I checked the powervalve screws but all were there and were secure so I didn't mess with them. At just under 200k miles I figured they were good.
The infamous bracket bolt at the RH rear of the intake wasn't too hard to remove using a wratcheting box wrench. Other than that I used 1/4" and 3/8" wratchets with long regular and wobble drive extensions. I was able to get everything with those. Also, a magnetic pickup tool was very handy.
The PCV hose from the PCV valve to the intake and the one between the valve covers were very hard and had to be destroyed to remove them. I had bought new ones in anticipation of that happening. I also replaced the spark plugs which looked pretty well used. There was no oil in the spark plug tubes though so I guess the seals were still good. In any case I feel better knowing new covers and gaskets are installed. BTW - the RH plastic valve cover includes the PCV valve.
I bought new gaskets for the timing control solenoids but only had to remove the RH side one to get the valve cover off. I also bought new coolant hoses for the ones by the RH firewall but ended up not having to remove those. I wanted to be prepared though.
The valve covers themselves were a bigger PITA than the intake. I checked the powervalve screws but all were there and were secure so I didn't mess with them. At just under 200k miles I figured they were good.
The infamous bracket bolt at the RH rear of the intake wasn't too hard to remove using a wratcheting box wrench. Other than that I used 1/4" and 3/8" wratchets with long regular and wobble drive extensions. I was able to get everything with those. Also, a magnetic pickup tool was very handy.
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
Where did you get your timing control solenoid gaskets? I did this job a few weeks ago and one is leaking now but cant find the gasket sold separately.
Re: Valve covers - RTV all the way around or just in the corners?
I ordered them from Courtesy Nissan, same part number that atraudes posted above (part # 23797-2Y50A). I ordered two but only used one so I have one left over. It's yours (free) if you want it. PM me your name & address and I will drop it in the mail.Jake2.4 wrote:Where did you get your timing control solenoid gaskets? I did this job a few weeks ago and one is leaking now but cant find the gasket sold separately.